Topic: Why you no charge??? (cb550F) - UPDATE....

[koendd]

So,
working on a 550F, almost all back together, got it running last week but that battery is not charging.
Apart from the new R/R I tested the stator and field coil.

- green/white wires from field coil comes at 4.9Ohm as it should be for a 550
- Yellow/Yellow/Yellow mostly at 1.9Ohm (but sometimes just random figures....) Should be at 0.35Ohm per manual.

So will a new/second hand fiel coil solve my issues?

Tested by putting 12v on the white wire, when running no volts on the yellow wires...

[koendd]

Doesnt look to bad otherwise, but that doesnt allways say much right...

wires are a bid worn on the other hand, soldering them in the new connector wasn't a big succes...

[strynboen]

you need solid readings from the yellow vires..try to push real hard on the terminals on the meter..ohms is tricky to read aut

[koendd]

tested them over and over... don't go lower then 1.7Ohm

[Bodi]

What's your reading with the probes touching each other? Many meters are quite poor at reading very low resistance.
Suspect the coils last as they rarely fail.
Even though new, check the rectifier.
Bypass the regulator to test the alternator at full power.
Check field coil voltage drop from the battery.

The wires get dirty/corroded for the first inch or two from an old end. Very difficult to solder. Best is to cut back to where the metal is bright and shiny... you can try a different flux but nothing safe works very well. Acid flux (like for plumbing) should not be used on wires as the corrosive remnants will eat them away -  you can clean it off a pipe but the stuff gets trapped between the wire strands.

[strynboen]

i have thanget the vires direkt on the coils/vindings..opend up the isolation..carefull soldered new vires on the massive copper vire..flexed the konnektion..and glued it solid use araldit to Lock it stabil,and hold the vires from shorting aut..

[Duanob]

Scroll down to #18

http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/FAQ.html

[koendd]

Read the whole thing, thanks anyway

will take the rotor down to my workplace, have the electricians there take a look at it with a decent meter...

[Bodi]

What Araldit? They make a LOT of different adhesives. Epoxy?

[strynboen]

its the clear rapid 2 komponent. yes epoxy..ve use it often at the elektro shop...if the parts not can be lauqered..and is dry and klean..it holds the vires and isolation nice...only real problem is ,,it starts get soft at over 80 deg sentius for longer periods...and some elektric motors/komponents get so hot..

i often puts the parts in the lathe, if they are symetric,,,,at slov rotation...and fills it on..then it dont drip off..or falls through
 

[Duanob]

Read the whole thing, thanks anyway

will take the rotor down to my workplace, have the electricians there take a look at it with a decent meter...

or you can throw a whole bunch of money buying stuff that's not broken. I have all kinds of parts in my basement I bought before I learned my lesson, grasshopper.

[strynboen]

yes test and test...is the only vay to fix/find the broken parts...and to not fix the allready good ones...vaste of Money too,,,and time..

[koendd]

Read the whole thing, thanks anyway

will take the rotor down to my workplace, have the electricians there take a look at it with a decent meter...

or you can throw a whole bunch of money buying stuff that's not broken. I have all kinds of parts in my basement I bought before I learned my lesson, grasshopper.

been there...

that's why I'm taking it to work to check it with a decent meter...

[BomberMann650]

I was able to do the tests on my 550 charging system with a simple fluke meter.

Any ohms are a good starting point.  No ohms means something is broken.

In my case, the factory rectifier was shot. 

[koendd]

So, reading were good according to electrician at work... somewhere I'm doing something wrong then...

will check again tonight when I've mounted it...

to be continued!

[strynboen]

try to fire up the vhite and green vire to the magenet...it vill make it doing somthing..ac or dc..you vill get some POWER

[_millmo]

Try unplugging the headlight and see if it still drains while running.  I was just having the same issue and it turned out to be a bad hi/lo switch.  I bypassed it for now and it charges perfectly now.

[strynboen]

can you run vith, the light on?
..or have you komplet turned it off.
..running no light..you can drive for days..even it not is load the battery.12 ah/t is  a lot of power..and if the bike starts in first kick..it not realy use a lot of power
..so be shure it realy funktion...so you not just running at the battery...

[koendd]

so, got it to charge!

good news is stator/rotor are good.
Got it to charge by making a direct + to the white wire going to engine.

but here's the "funny" thing...
When I disconnect white going to engine and put 12V on it directly from battery, everything is good and it charges.

When I connect it back to white on rectifier side, no 12V coming from rect/reg except when I remove the green ground wire from rect/reg, then it gives 12V to the engine but then it doesn't charge. When I connect green ground, no more 12V to engine so again no charge....

Any ideas?

[koendd]

also, I get a little spark when connecting white from rotor to + on battery.... is that normal?