Topic: Can someone check my wiring, I'm having an issue.

[Lostboy Steve]

This is almost as minimal as it gets for a street bike and yet, issues. It starts, runs, and then shuts off great. The shutting off part is because there is incorrect charging going on. I get 13-16 volts on the ignition circuit, but total loss to the battery and the lights. Any idea what I did wrong?

[Spanner 1]

Yep, no output wire (Red) on that regulator/rect., so no charging voltage to the battery . Not correct for a SOHC charging system.

[Lostboy Steve]

Yeah I messed up. Sorry I missed that one wire.

[Lostboy Steve]

Yeah Cal, the way I did it, which could be terribly wrong, I have lights w/ ignition, and then just lights. If I kill the key, the bike does shut off. The colors here dont represent what i actually did at the switch color wise but with my meter shows that it seems to be functioning as intended.

Btw I really appreciate your response and help here.

[Lostboy Steve]

With the key off I only have power to the main fuse, which is kind of redundant and really only serves as a link for the starter solenoid and switch input power.

[Lostboy Steve]

Then I have one click, which is ignition and lights, and the second position that has just lights, but no ignition power. I've checked all this with a meter. To answer your question, and don't flame me, but its some eBay special. I know, probably junk. Not my first choice, but I figured for what I'm doing here, I dont require anything special.... or do i?

[scottly]

Connect the red key-switch wire to the left side of the main fuse.
Connect the black key-switch wire to the left side of the (redundant) ignition fuse.
Connect the left side of the light fuse directly to the left side of the ignition fuse.
Leave the brown/brown-white switch wires unconnected. (If you want to use the parking light the way it was designed, it adds a fair amount of complexity to the wiring.)
The green wire from the regulator, as well as the green wire from the alternator field coil, need to be grounded to the frame, not just connected to each other.
The way your headlight switch is wired is incorrect; the wire from the fuse needs to be connected to the center terminal, and the high and low beam wires to the outside terminals. The terminals on a toggle switch are opposite of the lever; when the lever is up, it turns on the lower terminal, and when the lever is down, it turns on the upper terminal.
Move the start button wire from the left side of the main fuse to the left side of the ignition fuse; the way it is now, the starter can be operated even with the key off.
I think that's all.... 

[Lostboy Steve]

Connect the red key-switch wire to the left side of the main fuse.
Connect the black key-switch wire to the left side of the (redundant) ignition fuse.
Connect the left side of the light fuse directly to the left side of the ignition fuse.
Leave the brown/brown-white switch wires unconnected. (If you want to use the parking light the way it was designed, it adds a fair amount of complexity to the wiring.)
The green wire from the regulator, as well as the green wire from the alternator field coil, need to be grounded to the frame, not just connected to each other.
The way your headlight switch is wired is incorrect; the wire from the fuse needs to be connected to the center terminal, and the high and low beam wires to the outside terminals. The terminals on a toggle switch are opposite of the lever; when the lever is up, it turns on the lower terminal, and when the lever is down, it turns on the upper terminal.
Move the start button wire from the left side of the main fuse to the left side of the ignition fuse; the way it is now, the starter can be operated even with the key off.
I think that's all....

I will try this. Yes I know about the toggle.

I will report back later.

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[Lostboy Steve]

Alright, I decided to re-wire the whole bike. I haven't tried it yet.

I used the factory colors, except brown is now my switched positive. I will make a diagram and post it later.




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[Lostboy Steve]

Yeah I know, this is all I had. Once I get it working I intend to use better connectors and fuse block. I did Solder and shrink-wrap everything else like the headlight switch and brake connectors. Here is the diagram that shows my wiring currently.

[Lostboy Steve]

Btw, I know in the new diagram I joined the coils to the headlight wiring. I dont think this will effect anything, although the (pedal) brake and tail-lamp are separately fused.

[Lostboy Steve]

I tried to follow Scottlys guide. I dont care, one position is fine. For the sake of the diagram, brown is connected to black on the switch. The actual switch brown wires are disconnected as described by him.

[Lostboy Steve]

Here's an update, after rewiring with the last schematic, it was still a total loss. So after reviewing everything and testing some things I have discovered that the field coil is not powering up. If I put 12v to the white wire the bike seems to charge but even while idling which makes me nervous.


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[dusterdude]

What cal said,he is the man,an electrical genius,an ohm and watt savant,a voltage guru

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[scottly]

Make sure you are getting 12V to the regulator black wire when the key is on. There should also be 12V at the white wire at the same time. Even at idle, the charging system produces some power if it's working properly.

[Lostboy Steve]

Thank you both very much I will review and check both and see what's happening. I greatly appreciate the help.


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[Lostboy Steve]

Well after following your wiring corrections guys, I just finally had time to ride it. Not good. Lol now I have the opposite problem.



This is after a 2 mile ride with the bike off.




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[BomberMann650]

Which vreg do you have again?  Oem is *kind of* adjustable

[Kevin D]

For DC volts the black test lead should be in the COM jack, yes?

[TwoTired]

Which vreg do you have again?  Oem is *kind of* adjustable

Is is adjustable.  But, it is not meant to compensate for wiring losses between the Battery and the Vreg.   Too many have F**k up that adjustment without knowing what they are doing.  Then later when a distribution issue is corrected, (New Key switch, fuse box, reconditioned connectors, etc.) the alternator overcharges the battery with the ill performed adjustment.  ...such as what is shown on the meter above.

The vreg is primarily a limiter to keep from cooking the battery.  But it must have true battery status information to do its job properly.

The Vreg is adjusted with a known good fully charged battery.  As minimal electrical load as the bike can be configured in.  And with the alternator capable of making max power (Over 3K RPM).   Then it is adjusted for 14.5V at it's sense terminals, Black and green.  The sense terminals have to read the same as the battery terminal.

[Lostboy Steve]

Which vreg do you have again?  Oem is *kind of* adjustable

No it's some Chinese deal. Shouldn't it sense over charge and back it down?


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[TwoTired]

Which vreg do you have again?  Oem is *kind of* adjustable

No it's some Chinese deal. Shouldn't it sense over charge and back it down?

Yes, it should, provided it is getting a proper voltage report from the battery to the sense terminals.

[TwoTired]

Which vreg do you have again?  Oem is *kind of* adjustable

No it's some Chinese deal. Shouldn't it sense over charge and back it down?

Yes, it should, provided it is getting a proper voltage report from the battery to the sense terminals.

...and it's the proper type for your bike-

Good point.

[scottly]

Well after following your wiring corrections guys, I just finally had time to ride it. Not good. Lol now I have the opposite problem.

In your latest wiring scheme did you somehow connect the white field wire to 12v? The white wire from the reg should connect directly to the white field wire, without any other connections.

[Lostboy Steve]

Well after following your wiring corrections guys, I just finally had time to ride it. Not good. Lol now I have the opposite problem.

In your latest wiring scheme did you somehow connect the white field wire to 12v? The white wire from the reg should connect directly to the white field wire, without any other connections.

I am going to check it all again. I'm loosing my mind over something that usually I would find simple.

It was ordered for a 550. That I know. But then again that doesn't mean it really was for a 550.


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