Topic: Questionable wiring 76 cb550

[FIREBLADE74]

Anybody know why the wire is cut and why there's just a dangling connector?

Maybe why I don't have running rear light?

I'm severely color blind so I stay away from wiring, smh.

[Smudgemo]

It looks like someone spliced in an extra wire.  That red one (the dangling one) appears to have been spliced into the tail wiring - definitely not put there by Honda.  There s/b only three going to the tail.  Not sure what you'd want to use it for, but if everything works, you could just cap it and call it a day.

[FIREBLADE74]

It looks like someone spliced in an extra wire.  That red one (the dangling one) appears to have been spliced into the tail wiring - definitely not put there by Honda.  There s/b only three going to the tail.  Not sure what you'd want to use it for, but if everything works, you could just cap it and call it a day.

I only have brake light no running rears

[Smudgemo]

Sure the bulb is good and the connections are good?  You only should have three wires to the tail light.  Ground, running and brake.

[FIREBLADE74]

Everything looks good. What's odd is I can get the rear in park mode but not run.

I can't seem to find the thread on the fix, too many shocktops lol.

[Smudgemo]

Yeah, I had a problem where the running light worked sometimes, but the brake light always worked.  It was the ignition switch.  I replaced it with one form 4into1, no doubt MIC, but it works for now.  I'd put a multi-meter on the brake light wires to see if they are getting power before digging into anything else, and work forward from there.

[FIREBLADE74]

Bet!

With the new ignition switch, did you have to replace the keys?

[Smudgemo]

Yeah, but I needed a seat lock so I got the matching set.  I have a second key for the gas door now.  If you pull the ignition switch, you can test it before buying a replacement.  I just can't recall what I was looking at.  I think the top outside terminals should energize w/ the switch on, but don't take that as fact.  But that was the problem.  The contacts weren't engaging properly due to corrosion or a loose plastic housing or something.

[FIREBLADE74]

Ok, Ive gone thru every wire on this bike and nothing is amiss!! I don't want to have multiple keys for one bike.

Its killing me that I cant drive at night for fear of being rearended and mamed or even killed.

[Smudgemo]

Did you pull the ignition switch and see if it's doing the proper thing when you turn the key to ON?  I seem to recall getting continuity across the top outside connectors when the switch was ON.

You do know that the rear signals only work when flashing, right?  Not sure if you're expecting that or not.

[FIREBLADE74]

Did you pull the ignition switch and see if it's doing the proper thing when you turn the key to ON?  I seem to recall getting continuity across the top outside connectors when the switch was ON.

You do know that the rear signals only work when flashing, right?  Not sure if you're expecting that or not.

I just need the brake light.

[evinrude7]

would the brake light kick on when you use the brake even though the fuse is blown?  does the fuse only operate the running light?

[Smudgemo]

Do you need the brake light or the running light?  First you said running light, then the most recent was the brake.  If the running light isn't working, did you check the ignition switch?  My rear tail light wasn't working, but the brake light was.  This is how to test it:


Grab a multimeter, set for continuity and hook the jumpers to the top outside terminals.  Does the signal start when you turn the key to on?  That's your rear running light (someone correct me if I'm wrong, but this solved my issue.)  This switch is intermittent when I wiggle the key or press on the contacts and that's how my rear running light was behaving.  If it's not that and the fuses are all good using the meter (not visual), then it could be a connector in the headlight bucket or in that housing below the coils.  Or maybe a break somewhere in the wrap, but you need to eliminate things that you can. 

Sorry if you need more than one key, but it's better than no light.  I tried to pull the switch apart and had trouble reassembling it, and I never got close to accessing the contacts.  Not that it couldn't be done, but I didn't feel like taking it further.  I doubt the replacement I got from 4into1 will last all that long, but at least it works right now.

[TwoTired]

Anybody know why the wire is cut and why there's just a dangling connector?

Maybe why I don't have running rear light?

I'm severely color blind so I stay away from wiring, smh.

All the color blind techs I know had to use labels to get around wire color issues.  A friend with color vision can get you started labeling.  Then you "chase wires" with a circuit tracer, ohm meter, or continuity light.  When you find the other end, add a label.

You are going to need a wire diagram to do proper troubleshooting.

I would unwrap the wire mods to see exactly what was changed/added.  Reverse the changes and it will probably work as desired.

I don't like changing parts to troubleshoot unless you have ready access to free spares.  You should be able to functionally verify any switch with an ohmmeter.  As I recall the terminals had mnemonic markings which correspond to wire diagram labels.

The wire diagram I have shows a jumper in the harness near the key switch that connects terminal PA to TL1  (Park and Tail Light 1 circuits) These are both brown wires which power the run filament of the tail light.  The Green/yel wire powers the brake lamp filament, when the foot pedal switch or the brake hydraulic switch is thrown, bridgeing it to the black wire 12 v distribution buss, which takes power from the main fuse on to the Key switch.  If your bike runs the Black wire and fuse is working.  Chase the green yellow to the tail light.  You might verify the bulb is good if you find power on Green/Y with the pedal pressed.

Will be a challenge to fix without color sight.  Perhaps a shop could be employed for this portion of the repair.  Depends on your determination to fix it yourself.

Best of luck!

[FIREBLADE74]

Sorry guys but I have brake lights when the lever is activated just no running lights. I'll pull the switch and check for continuity.

Being color blind is terrible browns look green, reds look brown, purple look red/blue smfh forget about pink and pastels. Damn!

[Bodi]

The ignition switch jumper is important. Also, the tail light powers through the TAIL fuse when ignition is on, directly from the MAIN fuse in "P". Check the TAIL fuse.

[FIREBLADE74]

Anybody know why the wire is cut and why there's just a dangling connector?

Maybe why I don't have running rear light?

I'm severely color blind so I stay away from wiring, smh.

All the color blind techs I know had to use labels to get around wire color issues.  A friend with color vision can get you started labeling.  Then you "chase wires" with a circuit tracer, ohm meter, or continuity light.  When you find the other end, add a label.

You are going to need a wire diagram to do proper troubleshooting.

I would unwrap the wire mods to see exactly what was changed/added.  Reverse the changes and it will probably work as desired.

I don't like changing parts to troubleshoot unless you have ready access to free spares.  You should be able to functionally verify any switch with an ohmmeter.  As I recall the terminals had mnemonic markings which correspond to wire diagram labels.

The wire diagram I have shows a jumper in the harness near the key switch that connects terminal PA to TL1  (Park and Tail Light 1 circuits) These are both brown wires which power the run filament of the tail light.  The Green/yel wire powers the brake lamp filament, when the foot pedal switch or the brake hydraulic switch is thrown, bridgeing it to the black wire 12 v distribution buss, which takes power from the main fuse on to the Key switch.  If your bike runs the Black wire and fuse is working.  Chase the green yellow to the tail light.  You might verify the bulb is good if you find power on Green/Y with the pedal pressed.

Will be a challenge to fix without color sight.  Perhaps a shop could be employed for this portion of the repair.  Depends on your determination to fix it yourself.

Best of luck!

Smudge/TT,

Appreciate the help I'm going to undo that dangling wire first to see where it goes, then redo it. Then I'm going to break out my multimeter.

[Smudgemo]

I just noticed this thread on rebuilding the switch in another thread.  Can't believe I missed it and I'm going to see if I can repair one or both of the OEM switches I have at home. 
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,74213.0.html

[FIREBLADE74]

I just noticed this thread on rebuilding the switch in another thread.  Can't believe I missed it and I'm going to see if I can repair one or both of the OEM switches I have at home. 
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,74213.0.html

Please do with lots of pics

[Smudgemo]

How very interesting.  I pulled the switch part out of the lock on one of them, cleaned the contacts with nothing but a dry rag and suddenly the continuity seems to have improved.  Really not much to it, however the cover is long gone and the contacts are exposed.  I don't want to use it as is, but maybe I can get my neighbor to design a replacement we can 3D print.  It's not terribly complicated.  I'll probably get some contact cleaner that's safe for plastic and some silicone grease as noted in that thread and see if it makes the switch work like it should.  I'm doing well with my repo, but I don't hold hope it will be a forever fix.  I'll probably do a new thread or piggyback on the one I mentioned above.

[FIREBLADE74]

Smudge, can you get the ignition out by removing the headlight bucket.

Had my EE friend come thru and trouble shoot, whats odd is the switch has continuity as well as all the wires leading from the taillight. strange!!

[Scott S]

 Is the bulb burned out? Is the switch at the foot brake adjusted? Plugged in? Broken? What about the pressure switch up front?

[Smudgemo]

Smudge, can you get the ignition out by removing the headlight bucket.

Yeah, it just bolts the the back of the top tree (I think) with two bolts.  Might not need to pull the bucket, but I can't recall.  Mabybe just tip it downward and try?

[FIREBLADE74]

Is the bulb burned out? Is the switch at the foot brake adjusted? Plugged in? Broken? What about the pressure switch up front?

New bulb, but I will swap it out. Everything else works as should. It's my understanding that the running rear doesn't have anything to do with the brake light.

[Scott S]

 It's a dual filament bulb. One filament can burn out.