Author Topic: Well I'm back with a new project. (Read 15529 times)

calj737 · « **Reply #50 on:** August 18, 2017, 03:29:29 am »

If you're building your own exhaust, you either need a tubing bender, or great welding skills with a quality bandsaw. And LOTS of time!

Pie cutting your tubes to make the sweeps and bends and get equal length pipes, merge collectors, etc is an enormous undertaking. Then, welding it all up without tremendous distortion to maintain fitment. Sheesh! Most folks who make systems have jigs to hold pieces in alignment while welding (for good reason).

Or, having decent software to calculate your bends, a tube bender and mandrel with some oomph, and full scale print out to lay your pipes against for checking, still need to fab and weld the collectors and flanges on. Sure you don't want to buy one instead?

westhewelder · « **Reply #51 on:** August 18, 2017, 08:26:57 pm »

Ha it's just an idea I'm toying with and didn't see too many topics in so I thought I would mention it. Also the problem usually isn't the material it's the people putting in 100amps of welding current. Burning the cap out of it and not jumping around on the tubing. There will always be distortion though you just need to learn to figure out how to weld accordingly.

Also I have access to the mandrel bender at work along side some of the original pipes. Britton but dimensionally there.

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westhewelder · « **Reply #52 on:** August 18, 2017, 09:25:11 pm »

plan this weekend is to dig out some parts make some brackets for the lights i have because i need to use the stock ones, i have a mostly complete parts motor on the way sunday. so i can finish that up and i need to order a few other parts cables carb boots etc.

calj737 · « **Reply #53 on:** August 19, 2017, 03:53:42 am »

Quote from: westhewelder on August 18, 2017, 08:26:57 pm

Ha it's just an idea I'm toying with and didn't see too many topics in so I thought I would mention it. Also the problem usually isn't the material it's the people putting in 100amps of welding current. Burning the cap out of it and not jumping around on the tubing. There will always be distortion though you just need to learn to figure out how to weld accordingly.

Also I have access to the mandrel bender at work along side some of the original pipes. Britton but dimensionally there.

100 amps! What are they welding, structural I beams!?!

If you have access to a bender and a purge rig, I'd do 321SS 0.035 wall and fuse weld it. Light, strong, and sexy!

westhewelder · « **Reply #54 on:** August 19, 2017, 07:30:17 am »

I don't have a purge rig but that's not too hard

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westhewelder · « **Reply #55 on:** August 21, 2017, 11:58:06 am »

So ended up getting the motor together feels like there is some binding though I can get a half rotation and that's all. Here are some pictures.

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westhewelder · « **Reply #56 on:** August 22, 2017, 08:24:40 pm »

Went to go do the valve adjustment I think this bike is cursed...

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754 · « **Reply #57 on:** August 22, 2017, 09:52:33 pm »

That Might polish .. but clean the oil passages.

westhewelder · « **Reply #58 on:** August 23, 2017, 04:52:35 am »

Cam is fine it's the snapped off bolt next to it from torqing the bolts down

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westhewelder · « **Reply #59 on:** August 25, 2017, 08:06:36 pm »

Cleaned up today I'm not sure about you guys but my shop tend to get chaotic when I'm working. I think it's time to invest in a service trolly to contain the mess.

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calj737 · « **Reply #60 on:** August 26, 2017, 04:57:52 am »

Or requisition some shop Elves

westhewelder · « **Reply #61 on:** August 26, 2017, 11:25:08 am »

Do they sell those at home depot?

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calj737 · « **Reply #62 on:** August 26, 2017, 04:29:43 pm »

Go to the "Pro" desk. Gotta be special ordered.

westhewelder · « **Reply #63 on:** August 26, 2017, 08:16:28 pm »

I'll have to check next time damn didn't see any consumer grade on the shelf.

So here's an update pic.

Wiring harness is mostly done. Need a headlight bucket.
Have to build a battery and component tray. Adjust valves. Ignition switch. Chain *need to figure out size and type.

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calj737 · « **Reply #64 on:** August 27, 2017, 05:11:01 am »

530 chain and new sprockets front and rear. Non-O-ring type chain, please.

westhewelder · « **Reply #65 on:** September 10, 2017, 11:07:02 am »

ok so ive been working on the wiring and getting this bike started ended up getting a putter for a start and that shows signs of life. might have to do some work on the timing. but i have a few questions.

1. where my blinker relay comes out for the wiring harness i have 3 wires as to what the wiring diagram shows which is only two a gren and a green and white, but i also have a grey wire. i can not figure out if this is correct or if the wiring diagram is somehow different maybe for a 80,81?

2.i have some wires this are coming out of the front of the harnes by the headlight it has a two green, double grey and a black. are this ground and 2nd wires for the the signals? i thought white and blue and white and orange were power to signals are green the ground and black is ground and grey is to power to the second filament?

calj737 · « **Reply #66 on:** September 10, 2017, 02:01:04 pm »

Quote from: westhewelder on September 10, 2017, 11:07:02 am

1. where my blinker relay comes out for the wiring harness i have 3 wires as to what the wiring diagram shows which is only two a gren and a green and white, but i also have a grey wire. i can not figure out if this is correct or if the wiring diagram is somehow different maybe for a 80,81?
The grey wire carries power in other models. In looking at the 80/81 diagram, the Relay uses a Green for ground, and the GR/WHT for power. is your harness stock?

2.i have some wires this are coming out of the front of the harnes by the headlight it has a two green, double grey and a black. are this ground and 2nd wires for the the signals? i thought white and blue and white and orange were power to signals are green the ground and black is ground and grey is to power to the second filament?

Black is power switched from the ignition. Grey is power for the Signal relay. Solid Green is ground.
WHT/BLU and WHT/ORG are the indicator power supply.

westhewelder · « **Reply #67 on:** September 10, 2017, 05:28:32 pm »

Sorry I was intending on posting pictures. First picture is by the battery second picture is up by the headlights

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westhewelder · « **Reply #68 on:** September 10, 2017, 08:22:17 pm »

So this is fun. I couldn't find out why the engine wasn't firing feels like no compression in cylinder 4 no idea what's causing it but I do know it sounds like a weak suction cup letting go of a surface? Going to get a compression tester and go through the cylinders.

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calj737 · « **Reply #69 on:** September 11, 2017, 04:29:31 am »

Re-check the valve adjustment on that cylinder. You would not be the first person to adjust the valve with the cylinder in the wrong stroke position.

westhewelder · « **Reply #70 on:** September 11, 2017, 09:30:22 pm »

So cylinder 1 is 100 cylinder 2 is 91 cylinder 3 is 50 and cylinder 4 is maybe 20? Weaker then a mouse fart.

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jgger · « **Reply #71 on:** September 11, 2017, 10:47:04 pm »

Squirt a little oil in each plug hole and re test. If the motor has not been run in awhile, it could be stuck rings. The oil will make a temporary seal and raise the compression .

You are checking compression with the throttle wide open, right? If not re test with the throttle open, then do a wet test. If there is little to no change in the numbers then the issue is in the valves or head gasket.

calj737 · « **Reply #72 on:** September 12, 2017, 03:05:44 am »

And a full battery! Spinning the motor electrically to run a compression test draws down even the strongest of batteries rather promptly.

westhewelder · « **Reply #73 on:** September 12, 2017, 10:00:07 am »

Had a full battery with a booster pack oil in the engine I even backed off the rockers to let them stay closed

I did not do it with throttle open I couldn't see what that would change. Haven't done a wet test yet. Brand new head gasket. My guess is the valves it's making some sort of popping noise. Like a suction pop.

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jgger · « **Reply #74 on:** September 12, 2017, 12:21:04 pm »

You need to readjust the rockers and run the test again, dry first then wet (oil in the CYLINDERS).

Loose rockers=no air in= no compression.

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Author Topic: Well I'm back with a new project. (Read 15529 times)