Topic: NOS Golden Rods - Price? EDIT: 836cc part recommendations

[SKTP]

What do you think they would go for?

[slikwilli420]

Very few people would even run them these days. They are meant for drag racing so limited market.

[SKTP]

Oh, OK....I am doing an 836cc upgrade and I thought I might have a line on some for cheap randomly...maybe not the best idea ever

[Stev-o]

What do you think they would go for?

IIRC, the last set I saw for sale were $600....

[kmb69]

Very few people would even run them these days. They are meant for drag racing so limited market.

Yep, they were crap, brand new, back in the day. Even crappier today considering more modern selections that are now available.

But they are necessary for top fuel motors as they were designed for. Russ Jr might be interested in buying them for the AT&SF restoration.

[SKTP]

What would I do with out you guys?

What do you think the best 836cc upgrade parts would be for a 1978K?

I want to make this thing bullet proof and never take the motor out EVER AGAIN. I am paying a pro to put it together this time.

Yes, I am doing the research and have help...but if anybody want to chime in I always appreciate the forum's input.

[slikwilli420]

Have the head done up by Mike, good modern rods, undercut the trans and new chains/seals/gaskets. Rebuild the oil pump and replace the primary rubbers.

[SKTP]

I am afraid to ask how much a Mike charges for head porting

[slikwilli420]

Very dependent on what you want done. I went all out and spent $2 grand. Full porting and 5mm valve stem package. That was a few years ago so don't use that price as a guide, just an example.

[SKTP]

Was it worth it? Like a substantial difference? It was like a different bike?

I am guessing the answer is yes. A gain of 103cc must feel pretty nice.

EDIT: Oh I might have misunderstood, was $2000 all head work? I am hoping to be around that ALL IN.

[754]

  Ibthink I would risk running Goldenrods. They are billet rods and would handle 300 hp. I can try all day to hurt them with 95 hp.
 If They were forged I wouldn't trust them much at all.
I have a couple sets.
One drawback to them is you may have to grind clearance for them in a few spots, and would not have to with steel rods.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Stock rods have been used in MANY 836 kits. If you go bigger/stronger then use better rods. If you just have to replace them there are a few options available for ~ $600 then go up to $1000. The golden rods would have been worth much more a few years ago when we didn't have more options. I'd use them depending on price and use. Not too many broken ones out there. KMB has a great idea to contact RC Jr for his restoration projects.

Good head is expensive and probably a better option than the same money on big pistons and new rods. $2000 gets the full treatment. You can get a big improvement too spending half that. You can always go bigger afterwards.

[slikwilli420]

Jerry is right that was just the head. Hard to do a simple build on these. Maybe find a good low mileage engine and go cam and pistons and see what you think.

[ekpent]

 What pistons are you running for starters higher compression Wiseco or the like or those flat top cheapie E-bay slugs ? How do you plan on running the bike,very hard and to the max a lot or just a daily rider with some more ooomph. I have stock rods in an old RC836 engine and it has not blown up and it was not babied.

[PeWe]

My bike ran really well with 836, stock rods, lightened alternator, ported head with bigger IN valves, harder springs, cam. This with new internal chains + tensioners, clutch (stock w harder springs like Barnett CB500/550 model). I replaced all bearings at that time.
Undercutted trans gears when you are at it. My stock worked fine with 836, upgraded later.

Optional
5mm valve kit  that will make it cost more.
Better rods from APE that has a new low cost version. This on a balanced crank, all assembled and ready to go.
ooops! 2000-3000 suddenly became 4000-5000 USD

MRieck can make all his true in one shipment if he has time.

[Stev-o]

What pistons are you running for starters higher compression Wiseco or the like or those flat top cheapie E-bay slugs ?

+1.   I suggest Wiseco, they are forged.  I used them in my last CB 836 motor rebuild [Big Bang Bike] as well as two Kawasaki motors. 

[SKTP]

I am still very much in the figuring out what to do stage. I have pulled my motor 3 times myself and each time it has leaked an unacceptable amount or had some other issue.

Currently the only internal engine mods are:

- Camellia Timing Chain
- Under-cut Transmission
- APE valve job

- stock but cleaned carbs
- 4-into-1 triple A pipe

I just want my bike to be very dependable and not leak. I mostly ride it along the PCH in California and enjoy trying to go fast off the line but generally cruise and occasionally 2 to 5 hour highway trips.

I thought 836cc was the next step up...but maybe "1 or 2 over" pistons might be the route to go for hopefully not leaking and dependability, if I actually do need to bore?

My bike has 70,000+ miles on it

[PeWe]

Better rods comes AFTER ported head, bigger inlet valves, hotter cam, 836 kit, lightened alternator and all other stuff you'll find when open the engine. Gaskets, seals and o-rings cost too.
Std carbs work fine with earlier mentioned. Airbox will probably reduce flow. I did not even try, used pods direct with no issues at all.

My old std crank with std rods that have total of 100.000 km, half of it with 836 and all I tuning parts mentioned is now sitting in my K2 stock build using K1 cyl+head and my old std carbs that run fine with 836.

[TwoTired]

Airbox will probably reduce flow. -When operating near or above redline.

I did not even try, used pods direct with no (recognized) issues at all.

[SKTP]

How much more HP can you realistically expect from porting and an 863cc bore?