Topic: Just picked up a little cb350f. Looking at a restore.

[Rippinryno]

72 4 banger.  Everything is very cherry.  I pulled it off the truck and the front brake locked up.  Can't hardly move it now.  It will be a winter project but can tell its sat for a bit.

[Rippinryno]

Heres a photo.

[robvangulik]

You won't be able to post pictures until you made 5 posts, so keep on chatting

[MikeSimon]

Here...

[MikeSimon]

..is...

[MikeSimon]

...how..

[MikeSimon]

...you...

[MikeSimon]

..do this!

[Yamahawk]

Mike, That's going to be a nice picture when you get it posted... but, for your brake problem, the most likely culprit is the return hole in the Master Cylinder. It is the teeny hole in front of the supply hole in the bottom of the MC. It always plugs up with gunk from sitting, and then your caliper can't release the pressure. Try cracking the bleeder on your caliper, and see if you can release the pressure there, and if that allows you to roll the bike. If it does, clean that tiny hole with a fine wire, and clean out the MC and bleed the old fluid at the caliper. It should be back to normal, unless the piston inside the caliper is stuck too. That will require a little disassembly.
Charlie

[Rippinryno]

Thanks for the advice guys!  I've pulled the caliper and will be draining the entire system and will be sure to double check that hole in the master.

The carbs did not look too bad, surprisingly, i believe the p.o. took the time to drain the gas out of them.  I did notice that getting the friggin air box boot off is a nightmare, i figured out the best method but it's not easy.  Noticed when i put the throttle cables back on, they're too tight, even with the exact same adjustment, the throttle won't return closed so I had to make some adjustments on that.

Here's where i am.

currently needing to get a battery so I can check spark and ignition.  Any advice on a good cheaper battery that will fit in the box.  the p.o. had some sla1075 battery that doesn't look like it's for a bike.  It's a nonspillable agm 12v 8ah.  max charge current is 2.4a.  If this is suitable i'll just get the same one to replace it, but if there's something better let mek now.  The one he had on there was wire nutted with cables because it's got tiny posts and doesn't appear to be for a motor.

gas tank is nasty so I will be power washing it out and doing the old flush with apple cider vinegar. I've replaced fuel line and plan to put a filter inline so that I can catch any thing I missed from the tank.  Also have an oil filter on order as well as the honda brand service manual.

Once I get the fuel tank and battery in operation I plan to give it a fire up.  I've filled the motor with fresh oil and kicked it over several times to get some lubrication in places that may not have had it for a decade or longer.

[Rippinryno]

here's a free post for pictures.

[Rippinryno]

is that 5 yet? and can you see the photos?

[strynboen]

you vant a 12 ah battery for the bike. 400.500 and 550 use the same..i use the robust Sealed acid/gel batteries..vork fine use the old type regulator in this bikes..vho often gives a bit heigh volt autput..modern batteries dont hold that up for long..

after first start up. and short test run.thange the oil filter..open the sump..and klean the inside filter..and vask all ..then the new oil vill hold longer..and somtimes you vill find left over parts..or problems ..but often just dirt..

inline filters often give problems vith fuel flow..so better just klean the tank real good up..and thel the fuel tap for leaking through..even it are closed..some have that bad internal leaking..vho flots the carbs..and can give fuel in the engine oil..or just leaking aut on the floor(overflovs)

[Yamahawk]

Thanks for the advice guys!  I've pulled the caliper and will be draining the entire system and will be sure to double check that hole in the master.

The carbs did not look too bad, surprisingly, i believe the p.o. took the time to drain the gas out of them.  I did notice that getting the friggin air box boot off is a nightmare, i figured out the best method but it's not easy.  Noticed when i put the throttle cables back on, they're too tight, even with the exact same adjustment, the throttle won't return closed so I had to make some adjustments on that.

Here's where i am.

currently needing to get a battery so I can check spark and ignition.  Any advice on a good cheaper battery that will fit in the box.  the p.o. had some sla1075 battery that doesn't look like it's for a bike.  It's a nonspillable agm 12v 8ah.  max charge current is 2.4a.  If this is suitable i'll just get the same one to replace it, but if there's something better let mek now.  The one he had on there was wire nutted with cables because it's got tiny posts and doesn't appear to be for a motor.

gas tank is nasty so I will be power washing it out and doing the old flush with apple cider vinegar. I've replaced fuel line and plan to put a filter inline so that I can catch any thing I missed from the tank.  Also have an oil filter on order as well as the honda brand service manual.

Once I get the fuel tank and battery in operation I plan to give it a fire up.  I've filled the motor with fresh oil and kicked it over several times to get some lubrication in places that may not have had it for a decade or longer.

Apple Cider Vinegar works ok, but what I found works well, is Prep N Etch. You can find it at Home Depot, and it is for concrete, and will take all the rust out of your tank, and leave a iron phosphate coating on the metal. You won't have to power wash it, but Make sure you flush well, with hot water, and dry with a hair dryer or hot air into the filler opening. It won't hurt your paint either. Use precautions with it, and it can be re-used as well.
Hopefully, your tank will not have pinholes... if it does, you can line it with POR15.
Charlie

[Rippinryno]

I'm gonna do the first round with apple cider vinigar, i hav good luck with it and it doesn't eat anything up, it's also much cheaper than the additives.  If that doesn't get it i usually come back with the metal renew from home depot that stuff is amazing. 

I think I've determined the stock battery is a 12N12A-4A-1 yuasa.  Would it be safe to say if i order one of these i'll be good to go?

[strynboen]

the orginal battery is expensive and a bit old mode...you can get a Sealed/gel  variant for far less..just dont bay the moderne types vith fanzy ion stuff

[Rippinryno]

I was able to find that original yuasa maintenance required battery for 30 bucks locally so I've got that on there.  THe unit turns over which is a great start, lol.  I've not attempted to start it since i'm still working on getting the tank cleanedo ut.

The damm air box boot fell apart getting it back on, the silicone or whatever holds the boots into the box was old and cracking so it just allowed the boots tos lip around.  I don't anticipate any major issues with this, but will look into something more permanent to hold those in.  I'm trying to keep this all original and looking to leave carb as is, so the individual k&n style air filters aren't my end goal, but if that's what it has to have, i'll consider.

[calj737]

I'm gonna do the first round with apple cider vinigar, i hav good luck with it and it doesn't eat anything up, it's also much cheaper than the additives.

Just to be clear, Vinegar is an acid, and it will eat metal if you let it go long enough. Be careful with it, and it will also damage the paint on the tank if you spill it. There is no protective clear coat on your tank, so be warned.

[Rippinryno]

Well, having used vinegar on cleaning applications before, I can say vinegar is not going to cause any issues if done right, and the only way it's going to eat metal is you continously apply it to metal for an extended amount of time.

It is my preferred product for doing this, sometimes i'll come back with metal rust remover from home depot which is a water based product that does a great job of preventing rust.

Ive dripped vinegar on paint in the past and wiped it off with no ill effects.  Also, i typically leave it in the tank for about 24hours and then repeat as necessary, once that is done, i come back with gas to rinse all out so the metal will not flash rust. 

Leaving a tank full of vinegar for a couple days only helps serve to clean up my crud, it's not going to eat through my tank in that amount of time.

[Rippinryno]

Quick update, after 2 days of vinegar the tank is looking 100x's better, I did go ahead and fork out for a tank cleaning kit though that has a sealer in it.  I ordered this https://www.ebay.com/itm/POR-15-49229-Cycle-Fuel-Tank-Repair-Kit-Motorcycle-Gas-Restoration-POR49229/361710394611?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I just want it done right so I'm going to go this route.

The tank had jb weld on the bottom seams and i can tell it's very slowly dripping (like 10 drops over night), so I'm hoping the sealer will work, otherwise it's more jb weld.

I'm hoping this kit will finalizing the cleaning, the vinegar really just got rid of my big stuff.  I put a box of BB's that i've had sitting around for the better part of a decade, good use for them to agitate and get it all out.

I do still have the petcock on, and I'm running fluid through it to make sure it's flowing good.  One question, as I do not see the mounting scres to the tank, do I need to pull that fuel bowl off the petcock and then find a screw under there for removal?  When it comes time to do the tank sealer, I will need that petcock off.

Also, is there a crossover on this tank?  I've heard some folks mentioning that they don't want to clog this during sealer appplication,k i'm not sure if this tank has one or what that even is?  It looks to be a wide open tank from what I can see.

Got a battery on it and turned it over some more, everything seems good, just trying to get some oil moved around before I add fuel to the mixture.  I'm getting good spark now with the battery instaled as well so I think we're making progress.

The game plan, as I do with most bikes I get, is to verify that this will run good, and then carry on with a full cleanup and restore.  I have to first know the motor is solid though so that's my main goal initially.  I also have a new front tire that came with that I need to mount,t he original is very dry rotted. 

[evinrude7]

try posting a photo or two now.

[Rippinryno]

here are the pics in post 2 that aren't showing apparently.   

[Rippinryno]

carbs and less dusty pic.

[carnivorous chicken]

POR-15 is good stuff, just make sure to follow the directions to the letter (e.g. completely bone dry tank before putting in the liner after the first two steps, and let it cure for at least three days).

[WhyNot2]

Full restore would be nice, wish I could do that with mine.