Topic: 750K2 Hot Rod Revival - Early Christmas

[CBJoe]

It’s a mess...but I have almost all the functions working on the m-unit with temporary wires run.  I need to settle on the R/R and Solenoid locations so I can get the power wires all solidified.  I think I like the layout in the pic below.

If anyone sees a better way I’m all ears!  All my loom wrap, heat shrink and bits to finalize the harness comes later this week so hoping to get it all decided by then.







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[CBJoe]

Whelp...it's not perfect, but its solid.  We'll see how well it works out.  Can always have some one with better fabrication skills make a better battery box w/ mounts for me.  Probably doesn't matter since most is hidden.

Dyna 2000, M-Unit, R/R, and Starter Solenoid all mounted.  Gonna trim batter cables to suit.   Not long now...hopefully get some good testing in this year and a few good Dyno Tunes.



Wiring is about done...getting all the cables trimmed and connectors sorted.

[calj737]

Why would you wire through the headlight if you’re using an MUnit? Run from MU directly to component. From handlebar switch directly to MU. Done.

[CBJoe]

Why would you wire through the headlight if you’re using an MUnit? Run from MU directly to component. From handlebar switch directly to MU. Done.

Hey Cal...The MessnerMoto Switches I'm using had shorter cables already soldered to the buttons...not long enough to run back to the M-Unit.  I believe that he's started production with much longer cables, but I was an early customer.

I could have just soldered cable extension on but talked myself into connectors for now....can always change later if need be. All connectors are crimped and soldered...so shouldn't be a worry.  The wago snap connectors are likely temporary...ill probably solder and heat shrink after everything is shaken down.  All grounds will be for sure tied to main chassis.

headlight bucket has tons of room...so space isn't a concern.  Even with the LED headlight



 

[CBJoe]

I'm let down nobody told me that my headlight bucket was installed upside-down in that last pic....thought I was going crazy with my new headlight lens    Felt so stupid when I realized my error.

Carbs hopefully getting installed tomorrow.  Electrics pretty much done and tested (as much as I can without carbs).

Soon.

[CBJoe]

Wiring is pretty much complete short of getting the rear signals mounted.  Cal's advice won over in the end and all my handlebar switches run straight back to the M-Units inputs.  All Grounds run right to Frame.  No real issues in wiring short of learning best practices.  Will be easier next time.



Front end all back together and torqued down.  Just need to install fender and gauges.  Really pleased with how clean its looking.  Going to look for a prettier master cylinder reservoir.  Open to suggestions.





Got my RS34's all checked out and installed with new K7/8 Rubbers.  Floats set and jets/needles swapped from stock with Kenny(cyclex) and MRiecks suggestions.  Will get it on the dyno soon to check it out.  Possibly next Saturday if I get it going by then.

Floats - 19mm
Mains - 120
Pilots - 12.5
Mixture Screws all 1 Turn Out
Needle - 9DZH4 (richer than stock needle at Kennys suggestion)
Clip - Middle Position

Few odds and ends, but coming together finally.

Cheers, Joe

[RAFster122s]

Cool Joe!  Looking sweet.
David

[PeWe]

Do you have something that clamp the carbs in frame or are they just hanging in the rubber boots?

My Mikuni TMR32 are strapped into frame with thick nylon strap.
I use a rubber hose around frame and another smaller hose on carbs throttle mechanism plate. 2" long 1/2" braided oil hose cut open to frame, a short piece of fuel hose on carbs. Strapped together sitting tight so carbs can't bounce up or down.
I have a photo in a forum thread somewhere.

Found a photo. Plus another photo of the throttle cable bracket where the strap is holding the carbs.

If your carbs have a longer distance between throttle cable bracket and frame, use a piece of rubber of correct size between.

[CBJoe]

Hi Per...I hadn't planned on attaching to the frame as I don't recall others having done so.  The CR Carbs previously were also just held by the clamps.

They are rock solid at the moment in those intake boots.  I can look to add a support bracket if need be once all else is sorted.

Joe

[MRieck]

Hi Per...I hadn't planned on attaching to the frame as I don't recall others having done so.  The CR Carbs previously were also just held by the clamps.

They are rock solid at the moment in those intake boots.  I can look to add a support bracket if need be once all else is sorted.

Joe

Joe.....Like Per I have a zip tie supporting the carbs. It around the main frame backbone and under the throttle cable holder. It is a very good idea.

[CBJoe]

Thanks for the advice guys...will do. 

So...it's alive!  kind of   here's a quick video of the first startup. 

Was a bit hesitant to start at first.  But then fired away no choke.  Idle was set way high so after I killed the video, I leaned in to turn it down and noticed a snapping sound.  Looking around I realized there were blue sparks snapping between the coils so I killed it.  Weird because I didn't touch the coil wiring aside from the Ignition output from the M-Unit which runs to the coils.  I need to make sure I didn't do anything weird here.

New throttle cables coming tomorrow along with a few other pieces to help me get it on the road. 

Hopefully the coil thing wont take much to sort.

Joe

[CBJoe]

Looks to be sparking from front output from the left coil to the frame.  Need to get in to see if the wire is damaged.  Have to quit for the night so will look closer tomorrow.  To be honest the coil mounting to the frame could be better.  So I might just do that tomorrow and inspect the plug wires while I'm at it.

Probably was misfiring like crazy while it was idling in that last video. 

[RAFster122s]

Wire end might be damaged causing the arcing. Do you have enough wire to trim it back and redo that end or new coil wire you can use?
Night time with arcing like that can be good time to enjoy the light show...

Broke a plug cap on my CX500 once when I pulled alongside a curb and like an idiot got too close and couldn't raise my foot above the curb when bike began leaning to right...dropped bike to the right.  That plug wire kept biting me on the ride limping it home.

David

[CBJoe]

Removed, cleaned and re-seated the plug wires at the coil for 1/4 and all seems well now with no arcing. 

Adjusted the mixture screws out to 1.5 turns and seems to be better.  Here's a video of it running smoother.  Man those flatslides are NOISY!  So glad I knew that before the first start as I would have thought a bolt was loose in the engine 

If all goes well, I'll have the bike at Dyno on Saturday with MCRiders Bike.....Dueling Dynos!!!   

Right now I need to decide if I'm going to preliminary drop the Mains down from 120 to 117.5 as that what Mike R is running.  Also, I have noticed that if I just crack the throttle open it stumbles.  But If I do a controlled roll on its fine.  Need to read up on the accelerator pump adjust.

[CBJoe]

Bike back together and first shake down ride was a success...had absolutely no issues.

After talking to Mike, he's got 117.5 Mains in his larger displacement engine so I went down another step to 115s.  We'll see what the dyno says on Saturday...allowing that the weather stays nice.

Mixture screws at 1.5 Turns and I have almost no hesitation now when cracking the throttle open at idle.  Zero hesitation while riding.

Bike pretty much doesn't want to idle smooth below 1500 RPM...pretty sure thats just a result of RS34's on an 836cc bike.  Anyway...here's some pics...was so satisfying to go for a ride 

[scottly]

Joe, don't be surprised if you have to go richer on the main; Mike's bigger engine is sucking harder on the mains than your 836.

[CBJoe]

Joe, don't be surprised if you have to go richer on the main; Mike's bigger engine is sucking harder on the mains than your 836.

Hey Scott...can you help me understand the logic behind that?  Is it because the higher CC engine is pulling with higher force/suction and therefore the smaller jet is needed almost as a limiter?  If so I hadn't thought about that. Tuning this bike is a big learning curve for me, so appreciate the input.

Thinking I should throw the 120's back in before the Dyno?  I may just toss some 120's in tomorrow morning and do another test ride to see how it feels.

joe

[scottly]

How long does it take to change mains on RS34s? You might want to wait for the dyno, so you at least have a baseline. The main jet needs to be selected for the best A/F above about 6800RPM WFO. After the lean spike when the throttle is rolled open, there will be a rich dip in the A/F curve until getting near the torque peak. It's the nature of the beast..

[CBJoe]

jets themselves are super easy to change.  Just remove bowl cap and exchange.....what takes forever is not spilling the fuel all over the place when you open the caps.  Would love to hear tips and tricks to do this...right now I have a small sauce pan I put under when I remove the cap to catch all the bowl fuel.

damn racers apparently dont care that they spill fuel everywhere when changing jets 

[scottly]

Dyno operators don't like it when you spill fuel on their machines. If I recall, when I was doing jet changes on the FT on the dyno, I had a shallow plastic tupperware type thing that fit under the carb?
I think I would start with the 117.5 jets for the dyno baseline?

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Glad you're taking the lead Joe  Looking forward to Saturday for both you guys.

Does your RS34's have round bar spacers? Gotta call Kenny in the morning.

How about a spray paint can cap to catch the gas.

Just found out is was the Dyna2000 box that took a #$%* on me. They won't cover it but are willing to give me a good discount. 137 miles.  Looks like I'll be playing with both bikes soon.

[CBJoe]

Glad you're taking the lead Joe  Looking forward to Saturday for both you guys.

Does your RS34's have round bar spacers? Gotta call Kenny in the morning.

How about a spray paint can cap to catch the gas.

Just found out is was the Dyna2000 box that took a #$%* on me. They won't cover it but are willing to give me a good discount. 137 miles.  Looks like I'll be playing with both bikes soon.

Hey Jerry...how was Bonneville?  You sticking with the Dyna 2000?

[scottly]

Just found out is was the Dyna2000 box that took a #$%* on me. They won't cover it but are willing to give me a good discount. 137 miles. 

Jerry, don't you have a new-in-the-box Gerex?

[PeWe]

Flat slides are noisy at low rpm idle! I prefer idle to be +1200 rpm.
Like spanish castanets

I had also thoughts about something wrong so I searched about it and found several threads about clattering flat slides.

Do your carbs whistle when giving some throttle?
My TMR32's do. RS34 should also, right? 

[CBJoe]

Hi Per...I don't remember any whistling...but my exhaust is really loud 

I'll have video of Dyno runs Saturday...so maybe i'll hear it then