Topic: No Oil Pressure

[Marcoceja25]

Hi guys, I’ve recently completed my top end rebuild on my K1 CB750. I am currently having trouble getting any oil pressure I’ve primed the oil pump and have put oil through the valve adjustment holes just as an extra insurance. I do have a mechanical gauge and it’s not reading anythin along with the idiot light not turning on. This was a none running bike when I first got it. Any ideas?

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Yeah, assuming you used assembly lube, fire that #$%* up. You will get oil pressure. When you prime the pump it leaves some oil in it but there is mainly air anyway. Mine rarely pull pressure with kicking or the electric start but pull pressure within a few seconds of firing up for the first time. Double check afterwards that you have oil flow to the cam hardware.

[MCRider]

The idiot light should turn on with the key. So that's one thing.

Other than that, if you are just kicking it or twisting it with the starter, you likely won't get enough pressure to turn the light off, or get the gauge to register. That would take a few seconds, 15, of running.

Remove the #1 and #4 tappet covers. Once its been running for  a few seconds it will splash oil out of there too. Kill it quick and replace the covers as you will have a real mess on your hands.

[flybox1]

Yeah, assuming you used assembly lube, fire that #$%* up. You will get oil pressure. When you prime the pump it leaves some oil in it but there is mainly air anyway. Mine rarely pull pressure with kicking or the electric start but pull pressure within a few seconds of firing up for the first time. Double check afterwards that you have oil flow to the cam hardware.

+1
Just start it.  It will pressurize in seconds and the light will go out.
That oil up top will keep the cam lubed just fine.

[Marcoceja25]

Still have to pressure after firing her up, and im afraid to keep running her No oil what’s so ever out the top

[Don R]

 I've used various means to fill the oil galley on the right side of the engine, An air conditioning oil tank can pressurize the system and I've used an oil pressure gauge fitting to fill it using a 90* and a few pipe nipples too.

[ekpent]

 If it is moving oil you will be able to see it in the oil tank quickly. There will be some circulation and air bubbles etc.. I always have a flashlight peering in there on first start-ups on projects. Is the oil light not going out ? If you start it up again take a peek in the tank.

[PeWe]

Open the oil plug on right side of the upper case, over ignition.
It will flow a lot of oil here when cranking the engine by the electrical starter once the pump start to work. Nothing... nothing and suddenly plenty if oil on the garage floor;)
All my recent rebuilds have shut off the oil pressure warning lamp after 2 x 10 sec electrical starter sessions.
This is the bottom pressure.
Next is if the cam gets oil via the 2 oil orificies in the head lubricating 1-2 & 3-4.
Good idea to check as the others recommended, open tappet covers to see the oil splashes when engine is running 1500- 2000 rpm.

Inportant to NOT idle on low rpm to ensure oil pressure. I prefer 1200-1400 rpm when warm. 2000-3000 rpm when started direct after a rebuild or normal cold start.