Author Topic: Making some progress (Read 8761 times)

RAFster122s · « **Reply #75 on:** July 30, 2019, 11:17:38 PM »

The stock horns have an adjustment screw that can be turned a little in either direction to adjust the tone a bit. It is located beneath the chrome cover.

bryanj · « **Reply #76 on:** July 31, 2019, 12:34:04 AM »

500 clutch adjustment is a "black" art, you would be better removing the complete mechanism from the cover, cleaning it and re greasing (dont loose the ball bearing)
Neutral light will be a trapped wire or bent switch contact and as its next to the oil pump you can adjust it whilst the cover is off
To get any gear higher than 2nd BOTH gearbox shafts have to be turning
You can still get the generator emblems but they aint cheap, no leaks if you leave it off anyway

Fezzler · « **Reply #77 on:** July 31, 2019, 07:40:11 AM »

Ah, nice to know. Thanks.

Quote from: RAF122S on July 30, 2019, 11:17:38 PM

The stock horns have an adjustment screw that can be turned a little in either direction to adjust the tone a bit. It is located beneath the chrome cover.

Fezzler · « **Reply #78 on:** July 31, 2019, 08:04:16 AM »

I thoroughly cleaned and re-greased during the assembly. But, I'm going to disassemble and have another look. I'm 99.99% sure I replaced the ball and greased it well (Did I grab the right sized ball from my box-o-parts?). I need to check why the neutral light stays on when shifted into first. I think the chain is slightly clipping the guide in the cover. So I might as well bend that clear of the chain. I think I want to look at the adjuster when apart as well. Why is it near impossible to adjust.

Here is my question. When I install the sprocket/clutch cover, is it normal to feel some resistance? I assumed what I felt was the shift pushrod seating and I was feeling the tension from the pushrod on the clutch (plate) springs on the other side of engine. If I have too much tension in there for some reason, that would explain why the adjuster screw is hard to turn as it would be the end point for the tension. HMM. Just when you think you are done.

Quote from: bryanj on July 31, 2019, 12:34:04 AM

500 clutch adjustment is a "black" art, you would be better removing the complete mechanism from the cover, cleaning it and re greasing (dont loose the ball bearing)
Neutral light will be a trapped wire or bent switch contact and as its next to the oil pump you can adjust it whilst the cover is off
To get any gear higher than 2nd BOTH gearbox shafts have to be turning
You can still get the generator emblems but they aint cheap, no leaks if you leave it off anyway

bryanj · « **Reply #79 on:** July 31, 2019, 09:33:42 AM »

There should be no tension on pushrod when fitting cover. I know there is a bulletin on 500 clutch adjustment if you search technicl

Fezzler · « **Reply #80 on:** July 31, 2019, 11:02:46 AM »

Ah. Then something is amiss for sure. I'll look for technical bulletin. Thanks.

Quote from: bryanj on July 31, 2019, 09:33:42 AM

There should be no tension on pushrod when fitting cover. I know there is a bulletin on 500 clutch adjustment if you search technicl

Fezzler · « **Reply #81 on:** July 31, 2019, 07:56:47 PM »

Well, I disassembled the crank case cover that I previously cleaned and polished - I completely disassembled it. And yes, there was a lot of old, hardened grease in the clutch lifter and clutch adjuster.

It is all clean now and I will pack them all with fresh grease tomorrow.

Also, the starter wire got crimped somehow. UGH! Still working though. I need to figure how the wire routs in there safely.

Tomorrow I'll check out the neutral switch that isn't going off when in first.

So, Making Some Progress.

Fezzler · « **Reply #82 on:** July 31, 2019, 08:57:13 PM »

UGH. The tension was probably the pinched starter cable.

So does the clutch lifter pretty much get packed with grease on both sides? Does the clutch adjuster get packed inside and just smeared outside before assembly...and then hit with the grease gun after?

Quote from: bryanj on July 31, 2019, 09:33:42 AM

There should be no tension on pushrod when fitting cover. I know there is a bulletin on 500 clutch adjustment if you search technicl

Fezzler · « **Reply #83 on:** August 01, 2019, 01:48:38 PM »

Yes they do.

Working smoothly. Hopefully, solve neutral light issue and back on track tonight.

Quote from: Fezzler on July 31, 2019, 08:57:13 PM

UGH. The tension was probably the pinched starter cable.

So does the clutch lifter pretty much get packed with grease on both sides? Does the clutch adjuster get packed inside and just smeared outside before assembly...and then hit with the grease gun after?

Quote from: bryanj on July 31, 2019, 09:33:42 AM
There should be no tension on pushrod when fitting cover. I know there is a bulletin on 500 clutch adjustment if you search technicl

Fezzler · « **Reply #84 on:** August 01, 2019, 08:49:14 PM »

Oh joy. I thought I was done with the clutch and finally moving on. A few final open-closes to admire my handiwork after achieving the perfect feel.

Pop!

(I thought it was a brand new cable, but looking at my invoices, it was an old one from the stash.)

jgger · « **Reply #85 on:** August 01, 2019, 09:13:20 PM »

Are you missing the screw adjuster on that clutch perch?

The good part is you didn't ruin the new cable with the dirty lifter mechanism.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #86 on:** August 01, 2019, 10:05:53 PM »

At least you found or had the clutch cable failure while still at home rather than miles from home or on a trip!

David

Fezzler · « **Reply #87 on:** August 01, 2019, 10:32:41 PM »

Yes, I have the screw adjuster.

I was thinking the same thing - better here and now than down the road.

You know, every minor setback is another opportunity to learn.

I have another cable. So, back off with the cover tomorrow!

jgger · « **Reply #88 on:** August 01, 2019, 10:38:03 PM »

Good attitude. I had a boss that used to say "we dont have problems, only opportunities to be a hero!"

Ll_lis · « **Reply #89 on:** August 02, 2019, 11:59:00 AM »

Very nice!

Fezzler · « **Reply #90 on:** August 18, 2019, 10:59:40 PM »

Well, I bought this '71 cb500 four K0 USA in boxes and a rolling frame about a year and a half ago. When it arrived, in parts, I thought I was in over my head big time. But I went slow, used the forum, reapplied what I learned on my cb550 project and took my time (and walked away to research) when issues arose. Today, I started it for the first time. My temporary gas tank (aka fuel IV) was leaking badly (you see that on the ground) and I didn't have time to set up cooling fans. But what the hey, see if she'll crank.

Holy cow. Better half and I were floored. It started effortlessly on the first press of the start button! Then, it easily kick started. I posted a poor video. What you see is literally the first push of the starter button and the first kick start.

Next up. Adjust and sync carbs. (As slowly turned choke off the engine roared to high RPM until I adjusted idle screw. But idled perfectly with choke on and no adjustments.)
Back wheel is too wobbly. I need to pull and re-true or figure out why. Basically shake it down and plate it! We'll see how the clutch is. Fingers crossed.

Scott S · « **Reply #91 on:** August 19, 2019, 02:38:43 AM »

Congratulations!! Another one saved. It's a great feeling, isn't it?

Stev-o · « **Reply #92 on:** August 19, 2019, 07:54:15 AM »

Great job...congrats!

RAFster122s · « **Reply #93 on:** August 19, 2019, 10:12:29 AM »

Congratulations!
David

Fezzler · « **Reply #94 on:** August 25, 2019, 09:04:31 PM »

Still starting easily.

I did notice that on first starts, when hooked up to the fuel IV, the carb bowls appear to fill and overflow. But once it is running, overflow stops. Perhaps the temporary fuel line delivers too much fuel at first?

Also, did a few test runs in the neighborhood just on fuel in carbs (sorry lady walking small dog who I scared half to death) and boy it seems to run and shift fine so far. Got her up to 3rd gear.

Too do:

- Re-true rear wheel. Way too much wobble.
- Adjust neutral switch as neutral switch staying on in all gears.
- Adjust carbs.

So recall, it started right up first time. Fuel air screws set at 1 3/8 turns.
As I turned off the choke the rpms rose quickly as engine raced so I backed out the throttle stop screw until it idled at about 1050 rpm with choke all the way off.

When I begin process to sync the carbs, what does it mean in the manual where it reads, "Adjust the throttle stop screw so that the throttle lever is 49+/-1.5mm from the stay."
Where is this 49mm spacing?

After those two items, I'm ready to see if NC will transfer into my name a TN title that does not have notary stamp. My understanding is TN does not require a notary but NC does. Well, ugh, that may be an issue even though title is filled out to transfer to me and I have bill of sale.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #95 on:** August 25, 2019, 10:32:41 PM »

Temp iv bottle not going to supply more fuel than a tank would unless you are changing the fuel line size connected to the carb directly. Your overflow is a problem that fuel usage when running keeps the level below overflow. Your floats are set too high or they are not shutting off the fuel flow when the bowls are filled. I am presuming when you say this is happening it is on all 4 carbs?

Your wheel has wobble caused by being out of true or is it bearings or swingarm bushes?

Fezzler · « **Reply #96 on:** August 26, 2019, 06:11:40 AM »

Thanks. I'll have to check floats. I need to get under bike and check if it is one carb or all. I had the carbs rebuilt and understood the floats were set to spec. Good to know.

On wheel, I installed new swingarm bushings. I guess it could be bearings but I'm starting with assumption that the wheel is not true.

Quote from: RAF122S on August 25, 2019, 10:32:41 PM

Temp iv bottle not going to supply more fuel than a tank would unless you are changing the fuel line size connected to the carb directly. Your overflow is a problem that fuel usage when running keeps the level below overflow. Your floats are set too high or they are not shutting off the fuel flow when the bowls are filled. I am presuming when you say this is happening it is on all 4 carbs?

Your wheel has wobble caused by being out of true or is it bearings or swingarm bushes?

Fezzler · « **Reply #97 on:** September 15, 2019, 04:42:40 PM »

Well, got the rear wheel trued to spec (or as close as I'll get it). Reset carb float heights. Synced carbs. Checked all bolts. Idled perfect in final check all day.

Installed new petcock on tank. Installed tank. I think there is a flow issue with the petcock or tank. But other than that and some more shakedown ride time, gents considered this one rescued.

1971 Honda cb500 four K0 USA

Scott S · « **Reply #98 on:** September 15, 2019, 05:02:48 PM »

It's come a long way! Do you have the "before"? The pile of parts?

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #99 on:** September 15, 2019, 05:04:11 PM »

very pretty! I think it is pretty common for remote tanks to cause carb overflow. I don't know if it is an increase in head pressure or that new and/or freshly tampered with floats will nearly always require some time to get settled in. Make sure your petcock is shutting off tight and that you shut it off when not running the bike.

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Author Topic: Making some progress (Read 8761 times)