First things first: you will need strong valve guides with very tight clearances to control the valves with that much lift. I'd suggest Kibblewhite's guides in bronze, and use intake clearance 0.0008" - 0.0012" for intakes, and NO MORE than 0.0020" exhaust (0.0016-0.0018" would be better). This will keep them straight and will survive the steep lift angles of that cam.
Next: plan on a protracted break-in, or you will suffer short engine life with forged pistons, bet on it. The reason is simple: the cylinder material has a rate of expansion equal to the cast pistons, but faster-moving than the forged types. This makes the cylinders cool much faster than the pistons when the engine is shut off when warm, and if it is started too soon after the shutdown, it can actually stick the pistons for a while until the heat drains from those hot pistons and lets them shrink to where oil can do its job again on the piston skirts. If the engine is forced to start under these conditions, it scratches the piston skirts, shaving grit from them and damaging the rings with it. This is what can cause the short life.
To try to reduce this effect, plan on breaking it in over a 1500-mile period, letting if fully cool down (for shorter periods as it wears in a bit) before each restart. Those who do this can extract 40K miles or more from the forged-piston engines, instead of the all-too-common 10k mile life when this practice isn't understood.
The forged pistons usually come with an instruction sheet that calls for large clearances, like 0.0020"- 0.0024", between the pistons and cylinders. This is also part of the problem, but it is done to try to preclude the "hot seize" scenario outlined above. Unfortunately, this much clearance is also anathema to this engine design: the best-running versions use tinier-than-OEM specs, like 0.0006" (like in my own 750) and the roadracing engines of the past always used less than 0.0010" in any piston size, up to 811cc. This tiny clearance will not work with forged pistons, so you're stuck with something larger: I have used 0.0016" - 0.0018" clearances on Wiseco's forged pistons (the ones with the 4 wristpin oiling holes) by also micro-grooving the skirts, or simply dimpling the skirts (many moons ago) with a ball-tipped bit, dozens and dozens of tiny dimples on the lower portions of those skirts, to try to retain enough oil in the larger clearance zones to help cool the pistons a little more. It worked, but I don't do it anymore for lack of tooling.
