Topic: New oil pump o-rings, when is it necessary?

[1976cb750f836]

Reading this old post,http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=78643.0, I was doing the hub drill for smoother shifts.  I read bout replacing the oil pump orings. How do u know if this is necessary? My oil light goes out Immediately upon startup. Shifts much smoother now. But still a tad tricky to get N, sometimes. I take this is a in frame job? What parts are needed?

[PeWe]

If your oil pressure is good, do not bother.
The pressure will be lower when engine is really hot a very warm day. Let it idle when hot and you will probably see oil light flicker.
I did not solve that with new o-rings, I restored pump with new rotors from forum member MessnerMoto. Fixed!

Pump had before that got seal kit from Elan also forum member that sell his kit on eBay, Vital Motor Sport.

[1976cb750f836]

If your oil pressure is good, do not bother.
The pressure will be lower when engine is really hot a very warm day. Let it idle when hot and you will probably see oil light flicker.
I did not solve that with new o-rings, I restored pump with new rotors from forum member MessnerMoto. Fixed!

Pump had before that got seal kit from Elan also forum member that sell his kit on eBay, Vital Motor Sport.

Light Never flickers. I'm leaving alone, at least till I gauge it?
Thought it might help the find neutral thing. Sounds like a Lot o work ,maybe for nothing. Even though they are almost 45 years old!?   
Remind me where do I hook a temp gauge??? 

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Try some synthetic MOTORCYCLE-specific oil for the shifts and see if that helps

[ekpent]

 I always snick my 750's into neutral just as I am coming to a rolling stop if I wish to select that option. Just becomes a habit and easier then being completely stopped. Feathering the clutch a little will make it go into neutral easier sometimes also when stopped.

[PeWe]

I always snick my 750's into neutral just as I am coming to a rolling stop if I wish to select that option. Just becomes a habit and easier then being completely stopped. Feathering the clutch a little will make it go into neutral easier sometimes also when stopped.

That's how an experienced CB750 rider do.
Oil make difference which is important for me.
Synth oil of correct viscosity in the mix make it easier and I think this is a receipt of how the engine will wear.

[1976cb750f836]

I always snick my 750's into neutral just as I am coming to a rolling stop if I wish to select that option. Just becomes a habit and easier then being completely stopped. Feathering the clutch a little will make it go into neutral easier sometimes also when stopped.

That's how an experienced CB750 rider do.
Oil make difference which is important for me.
Synth oil of correct viscosity in the mix make it easier and I think this is a receipt of how the engine will wear.

Yea, that used to work for me also. But now idling it's like stepping on a Brick, extremely stiff up or down. What I've started doing is a blip or the throttle, slips right in, easy as pie?
Riding on road, similar thing, if at low( under 1500rpm), shift lever hard to move? But upshifting, when going through the gears, is butter slick, never benn better. Downshifting, I have that habit of throttle blip to get the rpm up anyway, have done it all my life, bikes, cars, started in big trucks.
Just curious bout what the 7734 did I change when I drilled the hub. Noticeable better shifting, but N was easy before. When im back into, I'm going to re chamfer those holes, maybe some steel plate prong drag going on? 

[HondaMan]

I always snick my 750's into neutral just as I am coming to a rolling stop if I wish to select that option. Just becomes a habit and easier then being completely stopped. Feathering the clutch a little will make it go into neutral easier sometimes also when stopped.

That's how an experienced CB750 rider do.
Oil make difference which is important for me.
Synth oil of correct viscosity in the mix make it easier and I think this is a receipt of how the engine will wear.

Yea, that used to work for me also. But now idling it's like stepping on a Brick, extremely stiff up or down. What I've started doing is a blip or the throttle, slips right in, easy as pie?
Riding on road, similar thing, if at low( under 1500rpm), shift lever hard to move? But upshifting, when going through the gears, is butter slick, never benn better. Downshifting, I have that habit of throttle blip to get the rpm up anyway, have done it all my life, bikes, cars, started in big trucks.
Just curious bout what the 7734 did I change when I drilled the hub. Noticeable better shifting, but N was easy before. When im back into, I'm going to re chamfer those holes, maybe some steel plate prong drag going on?

If the clutch plates were replaced and the top one was originally the slant-cut plate, but is now the square-cut variety (more common today), it will tend to be a bit sticky-er when going from Neutral to 1st gear, making the lever feel stiff. To reduce this without resorting to synthetic oils, I add vee-notches (per my book) to the oiling holes to add a bit more oil to the midst of the plate stack.

If your clutch outer has the wider finger slots for that top plate but the plate in the stack is the normal one instead, the top plate will tend to stick each time the lever is released to squeeze out the oil and grip. I have 'fixed' this several times by just installing the wide-finger plate on the top, even with the square-cut corks.

[PeWe]

The washer under clutch center nut is correctly assembled and not flipped?
It work as a spring with convex side outwards under the nut.

[1976cb750f836]

I have the slant cut plate with wide fingers. And yes the washer is installed correctly. Ive played with clutch adjustment at the cover and the lever, no difference? This all started when I drilled the hub. Same plates as before.
Question, the washer with internal spline that goes behind the hub, I have 2 different ones, the 1 in the bike is all steel, I have a new one that has a gasket paper like coating on the side, could this have anything to do with it?

[PeWe]

My K6 clutch has a rather thin splined washer before the circlip. My K2 has no groove for circlip on the shaft but wider splined washer. The outer domed washer under the center nut same.
I did the hole drilling on my K6 clutch before. I think it worked better, absolutely not worse.

This with 836cc. When going up to 1000cc other clutch with no additional holes. The holed clutch might sit in my stock K2.
Always with harder springs.