Topic: Cylinder studs stuck, or broken.

[RRRToolSolutions]

I'm sure glad this thread came up. I've got the new lower case and cylinder studs I'm getting ready to install with the Carillo upgrade. After hearing of these problems, I discussed it with my local machinist and friend (the same fellow making the frame kits). He has been removing studs from outboard blocks and aluminum cylinder heads for many years. He says there is only one "correct" way to do it.

Charles heats the blocks/heads in an oven to 350~400 degrees. Then he grabs the studs with two Visegrips - opposed so you can twist them without any side load. He says you need to turn them out like a T-handle. He never uses an extractor until they are turning using the T-handle concept. He has never had one break if the block is heated and the stud turned with even pressure from opposing sides. There is also risk of damaging the threads in the block if you don't use the heating method because the bond/corrosion from dis-similar metals.

I spoke with Buzz (Dynoman) and he says the heat is required to do it right. He agrees with the method Charles uses and advises that I not try short-cuts.

I wish I could have posted this before you had the experience, but thanks for the head-up that trouble awaited me.

Regards,
Gordon

[Clutch Cargo]

This was a very timely thread and I would like to thank everyone who contributed to it.
I was going to re-assembly my 750K1 motor using the original studs, but after reading the initial posts from this thread, I decided to buy some AEP studs from Dynoman.  I’m happy to say that I did not break one stud – I did use ½ a tank of propane in the process. Some of the back inner studs came out without any heating, however the two short studs on both ends were the toughest.  My 11 year old son was watching me remove the studs and he could not understand why I was celebrating after every successful stud removal.

Happiness is a set of APE studs!

[kaysystems]

Finally got all the new studs in. My engine is NOT dissasembled, as I was only replacing the head gasket. This means that I can't put it in the oven etc.
So I drilled them all out, after covering all the openings carefully.

Thanks for all the ideas on this one.

David

[MotoRico]

To echo the question asked earlier, are there heavy duty studs available for the 550?

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

To echo the question asked earlier, are there heavy duty studs available for the 550?

Moto,

I can't answer your question but why don't you PM Big Jay or call APE (his business). Perhaps they can send you in the right direction. Email Buzz (Dynoman.com) also. He might be able to help.

[mazingerzeca]

Charles heats the blocks/heads in an oven to 350~400 degrees. Then he grabs the studs with two Visegrips - opposed so you can twist them without any side load. He says you need to turn them out like a T-handle. He never uses an extractor until they are turning using the T-handle concept. He has never had one break if the block is heated and the stud turned with even pressure from opposing sides. There is also risk of damaging the threads in the block if you don't use the heating method because the bond/corrosion from dis-similar metals.

Hi, Gordon. You men 350-400 degrees F or C? Thank you.

[RRRToolSolutions]

Uh, that would be the South Carolina measure.........you know - "South of that there once was Mason/Dixon line" 

fahrenheit

He says his wife's oven has been used to make bigger messes, but he advises using the miss's oven only when she's out of town and keeping her baking/cooking failures to yourself.

Gordon

[clarkjh]

To echo the question asked earlier, are there heavy duty studs available for the 550?

Moto,

I can't answer your question but why don't you PM Big Jay or call APE (his business). Perhaps they can send you in the right direction. Email Buzz (Dynoman.com) also. He might be able to help.

I e-mailed APE and they don't make em (have any).  I'm thinking of pulling mine the get complete measurements and seeing if I can get a set made, but then again, might be a little $$$$

James

[nippon]

@clarkjh,
in order to get the studs, you could try http://www.m3racing.com/products/parts.html
or http://www.cyclexchange.net .

nippon

[kaysystems]

I noticed that the HD studs were very tight to screw into the cases.
Is it advisable to re-tap the cases? Tap won't go in easily, it would cut metal.


thanks

David

[MRieck]

I noticed that the HD studs were very tight to screw into the cases.
Is it advisable to re-tap the cases? Tap won't go in easily, it would cut metal.


thanks

David

Don't ever use a tap...use a thread cleaner

[kaysystems]

Couldn't even get a thread cleaner to go in easily. It's as if Honda threaded the holes under size. No wonder I had trouble getting the old ones out.

David

[MRieck]

Couldn't even get a thread cleaner to go in easily. It's as if Honda threaded the holes under size. No wonder I had trouble getting the old ones out.

David

Are you lubing the chaser?

[kaysystems]

There was a small amount of lube. I did install all the HD studs but they were certainly a tight fit. Is that normal?
I assumed it was to account for expansion of the hot engine.

David