Topic: Where to put assembly lube and hondabond

[574hondarider]

Newbie to engines here and about to button up my cb350f top end.  Where would be good places to apply both assembly lube and hondabond?  Here's what I gathered so far:

Assembly lube:
-cam journals
-cam lobes
-piston skirts and rings
-tach gear
-cylinder walls
-???

Hondabond
-around oil return passages, how much and where exactly, on the outside of the rubber sleeve?
-in the groove of the valve cover packing rubber seal area?
-???

Thanks for your help!

[PeWe]

I have only done CB750.
Hondabond OK between cases and under the rubber coins under cam holders. I do not know if 350F has similar construction.
Nowhere else.
Do not use sealer where not really needed, risk to block oil feed. I mount all gaskets dry.

Glue gaskets with sealer will cause a hell when you need to remove that cover and gasket will go in pieces, long time to clean surfaces. I did that on a head cover using Hondabond on the head side. It took hours to get it off, scrape with razor blade and acetone.. Gasket dry next time, no leak.

Im sure others that have done CB350F will chime in.

[Mark1976]

For the most part, you shouldn't need to use ant type of gasket sealer on any gasket or gasket surface. Now having said that you do have 2 pair of o ring sleeves, one pair for the oil return openings and an other pair for the oil feed metering passages. Depending on how well these do or do not fit is the determining factor. If they're at all too small, or just don't fit in and around these areas snugly then you'll need to use a bit of sealer. Just apply it to either end, and not alot, enough so that you have a small bead on the top and bottom of the sleeve. It shouldn't squeeze and leak out at all. I've done it either way and when using a sealer they've never leaked afterward. When I've done it dry, it's been hit or miss, again o-ring quality is the determining factor in my opinion.
   Now, before you drop on the cylinders do a couple of dry runs on your work bench with the cylinders and the head so you have and idea of the order and all of the necessary parts, tools etc. Make sure you have all the right fasteners and washers. This way your not scratching your head midway through trying to figure out what goes where. If its your first time (even if its not) it can be easy to miss or leave something out. I torque in 2 steps and then retorque again 24 hrs later, then finish up buttoning the top end.

[Sano]

RE: Mark1967 tips
Wow, thanks for a succinct description of the potential trouble areas.  I measured the diameter of o-rings I have from an aftermarket gasket kit and they are indeed a bit thin according to what those part numbers indicate.  I will be buying authentic Honda for these o-rings.  Thanks for the priceless “heads up” and the workaround.

[574hondarider]

For the most part, you shouldn't need to use ant type of gasket sealer on any gasket or gasket surface. Now having said that you do have 2 pair of o ring sleeves, one pair for the oil return openings and an other pair for the oil feed metering passages. Depending on how well these do or do not fit is the determining factor. If they're at all too small, or just don't fit in and around these areas snugly then you'll need to use a bit of sealer. Just apply it to either end, and not alot, enough so that you have a small bead on the top and bottom of the sleeve. It shouldn't squeeze and leak out at all. I've done it either way and when using a sealer they've never leaked afterward. When I've done it dry, it's been hit or miss, again o-ring quality is the determining factor in my opinion.
   Now, before you drop on the cylinders do a couple of dry runs on your work bench with the cylinders and the head so you have and idea of the order and all of the necessary parts, tools etc. Make sure you have all the right fasteners and washers. This way your not scratching your head midway through trying to figure out what goes where. If its your first time (even if its not) it can be easy to miss or leave something out. I torque in 2 steps and then retorque again 24 hrs later, then finish up buttoning the top end.

Thanks for the knowledge!  When you say you torque in 2 steps then again in 24 hours, do you mean if it's calling for 8ftlbs you torque everything to 4 then go back through in sequence and do everything to 8?  And when you retorque 24 hours later, are you loosing up and then starting over, or just checking at the correct torque limit?  Thinking I will be using copper gasket coating just to be on the safe side.  Thanks

[Mark1976]

   On the retorque question, yes. Use your torquing sequence first to snug then 1/2 torque value, then full torque value. I think the head value is 16.6 ft. lbs. On the second torque after 24 hrs. One fastner at a time loosen and retorque, take your time and slowly pull the wrench around until it gives you your reading. Don't rush. Mine click when the proper torque is reached. You really don't need to put anything on the head gasket, put it on as is.
   At this point I cannot stress enough that before you start installing the head, you make sure everything is clean and dry. Lay it all out, nuts and washers. They should be clean and dry, stud threads as well. Wipe down the head mating surface as well, if you've done it well, when your done assembling you and the engine will be clean and dry. The only part I lube are the (two, i think) washers that have the rubber bottoms, it'll keep them from chaffing (preventing a leak) when you torque them. I torque everything dry, that's just me, some lube all threaded area's and then torque. If someone else wants to add whether you torque wet or dry be my quest. (Its like the oil threads that get started occasionally. OMG.) Wait 24 hrs. then retorque, and if ya really want to do it right, wait 2 or 3 days and check the torque again, everything settles. Be patient, at this stage it pays big dividends. If you  don't have one, get (borrow) a decent torque wrench, it matters.