I’m not a 550 or a cruizin image guy…
That said, I’ve read repeatedly on here that 550’s and smaller sohcs’ need the tighter fit so they’re not oil burners and mosquitoe foggers..
You are right there, at least do the 1st oversize. To at least straighten and square up any bore/core shifts that might have occurred over time from Honda’s green cylinder block or just from normal cylinder wear…you’ll never be any closer than right now..🤞🤞
I know this started as a 550 thread but my specific question was about 750 piston brands if you have any suggestions for those
First, you have provided nothing except my block has been honed and it’s within specs.?
But, we must/may infer your pistons are not within specs because you want information on new pistons..
Unable to read your mind, my thoughts wonder. Is he trying to get his pistons to wall clearance in spec or
tighter because his OEM pistons are worn excessively? Or my cylinders are at the lower spec and my pistons
were reusable and now there not..or one of them is damaged etc.
Without knowing your cylinders’ actual size and taper you have blindfolded all of us.
If you’re determined to use your honed cylinders I would at least know the actual taper and size of each
bore and record that information. When you decide on your pistons and type, measure each piston and record it size
to the ten thousands. Put the biggest piston in the biggest hole. Continue ending with the smallest measured piston in the smallest hole.
What piston would I recommend? I don’t know your actual bore size or taper. What type of hone or glazed breaker honed it or what the finish is for your desired ring pack..However if your cylinders are perfect and are on the smaller bore size you maybe able to consider new cast pistons and you may still have a good piston to cylinder wall clearance. But if you’re on the largest bore size Honda allows which I think you’re at. I would use a forged wiseco piston. Why, because forged pistons generally require more clearance to operate normally than cast pistons do..Why, the forge pistons generally expand more at normal temps than cast piston do.. so your worn cylinders may have a closer to an ideal new piston to wall clearance than a cast piston will.
So if your clearances are already tight you may be able to use a new Honda (cast) piston. Or you may be able to stiff hone a little more to remove any taper while achieving the larger desired piston to cylinder wall clearance most forge pistons require.
If your clearances are already big then provided that your cylinders have little or no taper then I would use forged pistons only if any type of of boring wasn’t in the plans..Just because forge pistons generally require more clearance so you’ll be closer to ideal even when it’s excessive for a cast piston requirements.
Attached is a better description of piston to cylinder wall clearance and block material and the whys, better explained than I can articulate.. But, in short your cylinders’ housed in aluminum will have an expansion rate similar to your aluminum pistons expansion rate is. As compared to the same piston type in a cast iron/water cooled cylinder bore,as an extreme. Basically your cylinders will expand as your pistons expand as the temperature rises. So if you start out with too big of clearance it stays too big as it gets hot..
https://www.wiseco.com/auto/wiseco-auto-tech/piston-to-wall-clearance-myths-mysteries-and-misconceptions-explained/?srsltid=AfmBOooIH8YMXEF8aPVHTZ7zPlcUNzmKdSzIt2DF3QHRcLtZLHz5z8VeWiseco and Honda has so tight of quality control it may be hard to measure accurately enough to determine if there is any difference. But, a good Starett or Mitutoyo micrometer will measure easily to the ten thousandth’s for the cheaper pistons.. wear gloves..😇
Since your already honed and have an unknown bore finish grit and crosshatch you might see whose rings (chrome, cast, moly, etc) works best with your current finish..you know the cart and the horse thing.