Topic: New clutch chattering

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

If you should happen to do the later clutch upgrade you will also need a later clutch cover

[PeWe]

My K6 stock cover was OK.
It has the flat knob inside, not the rounded one as earlier.

I found out after I had removed the black paint on an F2 cover and added additional ventilation as I had done on my K6 cover.
I saw no difference so the K6 cover went back on. This was 25000 km ago.

The prepared F2 cover will be used on another ongoing build that will get the later clutch too.

[Don R]

 I'm about to dig into my 836's clutch and see what's in there. I suspect it's going to be the red frictions with copper coated steels. That's what all of the spare and used parts were from the same previous owner. I know to watch for the wider top plate and late cover now. It's a K1 bike and case but the PO had later model parts bikes also.

[newday777]

My K6 stock cover was OK.
It has the flat knob inside, not the rounded one as earlier.

I found out after I had removed the black paint on an F2 cover and added additional ventilation as I had done on my K6 cover.
I saw no difference so the K6 cover went back on. This was 25000 km ago.

The prepared F2 cover will be used on another ongoing build that will get the later clutch too.

The outside also has differences around the outer perimeter and the heights of the 3 screw standoffs

[HondaMan]

I'm about to dig into my 836's clutch and see what's in there. I suspect it's going to be the red frictions with copper coated steels. That's what all of the spare and used parts were from the same previous owner. I know to watch for the wider top plate and late cover now. It's a K1 bike and case but the PO had later model parts bikes also.

If you have an Old Factory K1 then the 'new' clutch hub with those wider top-plate-fingers may not fit the engine. My [very early] K2 has an early K1 engine (it came new that way, to me in 1972) and it has the old-style inner hub that required 2 wires to hold the first 2 steel plates at the back (much like the CB160). Those hubs won't mesh well with the newer outer, as the installed height is about 2mm different. If you have that type if inner hub you can use the early outer, the one with the welded-on outer reinforcement band: the later ones may have the free-floating outer band instead, which has fingers that install behind the top clutch plate to help lift it away form the stack for "the slip" moment.

BTW: You can remove (and throw away) those inner hub wires if yours has them and you want to: I mangled mine during an excursion into the engine in the winter of 1973 and they died an early death since Honda didn't have any then, and I didn't want to wait past March to go riding again. Later, after a failed 1st experiment at installing the famous oiling holes, I replaced the hub altogether with another K1 hub. It doesn't have the wire holes.

[Don R]

 Thanks for the tip, I have a couple of the older motors. It's good to know what to watch for.
  I remember when I first started it after the years of barn rest, it had an awful noise which I correctly diagnosed as the clutch. The outer band seemed loose and after I welded it in place the noise was significantly less. (it was also missing the cam chain guide) It's funny, I don't really remember what the clutch pack looked like.
 This is an RC 836 that was reportedly used a lot to take money from Kawasaki guys.

[HondaMan]

Thanks for the tip, I have a couple of the older motors. It's good to know what to watch for.
  I remember when I first started it after the years of barn rest, it had an awful noise which I correctly diagnosed as the clutch. The outer band seemed loose and after I welded it in place the noise was significantly less. (it was also missing the cam chain guide) It's funny, I don't really remember what the clutch pack looked like.
 This is an RC 836 that was reportedly used a lot to take money from Kawasaki guys.

Yeah, some of those bands cracked their spotwelds on the early clutches. I see them now and then, still.
I remember an RC836 at the local dragstrip in 1973. The bike had a 4-1 pipe (Kerker, IIRC) and a cam of some sort, otherwise looked like the bike he rode to college classes. He would leave the line 'softly' while the Kawi 900 or Mach III next to him was making smoke (one way or another), then pass them going into 3rd, halfway down the pavement. Every time.

[PeWe]

About the chattering.
Is clutch properly adjusted?
The adjuster screw closed until stop and opened 1/2 turn + locked with the nut.
Manual say  open screw 1/4-1/2 turn.
Opened too much might cause chatter.

I have got issues when only open 1/4 turn. Clutch slip.
Adjustment when cold changed when warm.