Topic: Got rid of my 550K... and replaced it with a 550F and a 350F

[Oddjob]

The polishing and chrome plating wasn't that great to begin with on the 400 header, especially on the back side. Hey Chris, want a 400 project?

Honda seemed to love saving money on chrome plating, top of the Cb500 fork tubes, not chromed? back of the Cb550F chainguard, really dull chrome, same for the back of the CB500 exhausts, dull chrome. They did this on numerous things, brake levers, gear levers, fork ears. It's a wonder they lasted as long as they did.

[carnivorous chicken]

It's a total basket case with no title.

You make it sound so tempting but... maybe not!

[Stev-o]

Finally got the header back and... it's about a C- on the chrome job.

Cleaned up the flanges.

Hey Chris...I may have some spare flanges in better condition, I'll search today.

Sorry to hear of the C- chrome job. 

[carnivorous chicken]

Gave it a wash, here's how it sits now:



Just realized it looks like it has a ton of drips under it, but it's not from the bike (except maybe one or two drips of water, just washed it. I reused the crush washers for the exhaust and they seem to seal, but I have new ones on the way so I'm gonna take of the exhaust again, which will give me a chance to try to polish up the duller places on the header. When I get back from Seattle I should have enough components to fit the airbox, and I'll have a few more stock bolts to replace the allen ones that are left. Got a repop seat cover that looks stock as well.

[denward17]

Nice looking bike CC....Is that the stock header and muffler?

[carnivorous chicken]

Nice looking bike CC....Is that the stock header and muffler?

Yep. The bike came with them, but there are a few other bits and pieces that weren't stock. I'm trying to get it back to as stock as I can.

[Oddjob]

Just for info but the 2 throttle cables go through the hole in the speedo bracket and then round the other side of the headstock and then through the hole where the coils sit. I've found any other routing can either make the throttle stiff or cause it to rev when the bars are turned.

[carnivorous chicken]

Just for info but the 2 throttle cables go through the hole in the speedo bracket and then round the other side of the headstock and then through the hole where the coils sit. I've found any other routing can either make the throttle stiff or cause it to rev when the bars are turned.

Gotcha, thanks. Haven't had any issue with high revs or sticking but maybe I'll reroute them next time I've got stuff apart...

[Oddjob]

Have a look at the CB550F appendum and you can see all the cable and wiring harness routing on there. It makes a BIG difference when everything is routed correctly.

I'm always hesitant about saying stuff like this as some people seem to think I just sit at my PC and pick holes in their builds and nothing is farther from the truth.

[carnivorous chicken]

Came back from Seattle and had a few more things to work on. Replaced 3 out of the final 4 allen bolts -- the long ones on the stator cover and the bolt that attaches the brake arm to the drum. One bugger left, on the valve cover, inside and not visible, and I didn't have it on the bolts I pulled from the engine at Bob's. I think I have one that will work somewhere.

Replaced the seat cover... and about half of the mounting teeth broke off in the process. I used binder clips and epoxy and it looks fine, but it's a little askew. Hard to notice unless you're paying attention.

I'm gonna pull the header again to replace the exhaust seals and try to polish the dull parts on the chrome. Oddjob, you seem to know a little more about this than most (and I've only had bright, shiny chrome come back when I take stuff to the chrome shop), or anyone else -- I am assuming that regular chrome or metal polish isn't going to do the trick, but I would need some light (or medium?) polishing compound. IS that the case, or just regular chrome polish is fine? I am figuring I'll have to go at it for a while, wrapping a piece of cloth around the hard to get spots that are dull...

[Oddjob]

I've never worked at a chroming place but I do talk to them a lot, mainly because I do a lot of their prep for them and that surprises them and they seem to take a interest in what I'm doing and how I'm doing it. So I have learned a few things from them that others may not know. First thing I learned was that chrome is a yellow cake like powder and it's not the chrome which makes it shine, it's the nickel, nickel is the base coat and chrome is the lacquer, that's roughly how they explained it to me. The smoother the surface, the better the finish, so if they can polish it then it comes out much better than areas where they can't or don't want to polish it. Like the original 500 exhausts, really bright chrome on the outside, where you can see it, but much duller on the inside where you don't look. Same for brake pedals and lots of other things, polishing is expensive and time consuming so they try and avoid it whenever possible. That's why you have duller areas, it's because they couldn't get the polishing machines in there OR they could but it was bloody awkward or very time consuming and that makes it a lot more expensive to the customer. IMO if you try and buff it up you'll not get great results, you'll just reduce the layer of chrome on top of it. It's worth trying a small area and see if it improves the look but I'd not hold out to much hope TBH. You'll just have to live with it.

[RAFster122s]

Don't show chrome shops polish the copper plate before the nickel plating? But the base before playing begins needs to be very smooth for best results as all the plating will magnify any defects it cannot fill...

[Oddjob]

Not as far as I know, the vids I have watched show parts coming out of the copper bath, rinsed off and then going straight into the nickel bath. It's the metal before the copper bath that gets the polish, if it doesn't or can't be done then the results reflect this, copper however can hide a great deal of surface corrosion for instance, so triple plating is far better than double plating in that respect. Shame mine only does double these days.

[carnivorous chicken]

Gave it a wash and shot a photo. Rerouted the throttle cables as per Oddjob's suggestion. While I had the tank off snugged up three tappet covers -- two had just a slight black ring around them, the other just a little more. They've got new o-rings, and whenever I do a valve adjustment I tend to be cautious when I snug them up as I have broken a couple over the years by over tightening (and it's easier to just snug one up than replace a broken one). Also discovered a little oil around the tach drive. I'll get a new seal, and I'm hoping that the drive gear isn't busted (although I pulled two from Bob's in PHX before they got rid of most of their bikes, so I've got a spare if it is).

Was going to fit the plenum and airbox for the photo, but didn't have enough time. Also thought I might be able to just sneak the plenum in there for a photo but I'm gonna have to pull the carbs to get the airbox and plenum in there. I've also got new exhaust seals so I figure when I have a little while I can pull the exhaust and push the engine forward to make installing airbox set up and carbs easier.

I'll do a little touch up around the handlebar mounts and I am thinking of running some kind of black tube over the braided brake line to make it look more like stock. I guess technically I'm restoring it -- even nut and bolt restoration since I got rid of all of those allen bolts -- but not really what people have in mind when they say restoration (as in back to as new).

[seanbarney41]

whatever you call it...it's #$%*in gorgeous

[scottly]

I am thinking of running some kind of black tube over the braided brake line to make it look more like stock.

Heat shrink tubing might be just the thing you're looking for.

[carnivorous chicken]

I am thinking of running some kind of black tube over the braided brake line to make it look more like stock.

Heat shrink tubing might be just the thing you're looking for.

This was my first thought, and I might go with it. That being said, it wouldn't look too close to the original, kind of smooth. The braided line is pretty thin compared to the stock line, so I may go to an auto parts store and see if there is a thin-walled kind of hose that I might be able to slip over it...

[carnivorous chicken]

whatever you call it...it's #$%*in gorgeous

And thanks Sean. Got lucky finding this one and it's a keeper.

[carnivorous chicken]

After some wrangling I got the airbox and plenum mounted.

I spent an hour looking for my hydraulic jack as I was going to remove the engine mount (save one) to make some more space. Never found it, WTH. I figured I would get to work, then look again. I thought I might be able to get away with it without removing the carbs, but not a chance. And then I remember how easy it was to remove carbs with pods, so no big deal. Mounted the airbox and plenum and left them unbolted to the frame, slid the carbs back in, and everything lined up nicely. Had the exhaust off as well, so put in the new seals and cleaned up the chrome behind the silencer. While I ad the tank off, I replaced that one last damn allen bolt on the valve cover and had a look at the tach drive. It's in one piece thankfully so I imagine it is just the seal -- will pick one up next time I am in the USA. Frustratingly found two imperial bolts at the motor mount in the front -- those will be replaced too.

Hooked up all the hoses (am missing the hose for the plenum but I have one on order) and tightened and double checked all the motor mounts, the exhaust and the RHS foot peg. Fired her up and she purred.



Went out for a ride and there is some improvement -- it idled smoothly just after 1k (it was idling around 1.2k before, with a little chugging. It was a lot quieter. But...

Now it's time for diagnosis. It bogged around 3.5-4k rpm, and although I only rode it for half an hour, it got worse. So clearly it is running a lot richer at this altitude (7500 feet) than it did with pods. I'm going to have a look at the plugs, and verify the jet sizes. Some rejetting might be in order as a first step.

The bike ran and pulled really well with the pods, just a little stutter starting off and a little chugging at idle. I could live with both so if it comes to it I could always just throw the pods back on and be content. But I will give rejetting a try, and adjusting the idle mixture. I'm going to give it a 3k-mile tuneup as well.

For anyone else at high altitude, anyone mess with spark plug heat range? I've got either D7EA or D8EA, will have to have a look when I pull them, but wondering if anyone else at altitude has any recommendations. It doesn't ever get too hot here (last year was over 90 for 2-3 days, which broke records, but usually 75 - 80 on warm days, and in the winter down to 35-40).

[denward17]

Good looking bike CC!

Don't forget about the needle adjustment, may have to adjust it now with the airbox on.  Assume it's too rich now?

[carnivorous chicken]

Good looking bike CC!

Don't forget about the needle adjustment, may have to adjust it now with the airbox on.  Assume it's too rich now?

Thanks, and yep, was thinking that -- especially since it's a little under half throttle...

[scottly]

The bike ran and pulled really well with the pods, just a little stutter starting off and a little chugging at idle. I could live with both so if it comes to it I could always just throw the pods back on and be content.

Please post what jets and needle settings worked well with the pods on the pods thread.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,182280.125.html

[grcamna2]

Good looking bike CC!

Don't forget about the needle adjustment, may have to adjust it now with the airbox on.  Assume it's too rich now?

Thanks, and yep, was thinking that -- especially since it's a little under half throttle...

What ambient air temps does it run the best in with your present jetting ?

[carnivorous chicken]

Checked the plugs, pretty sooty. Leaned out the idle mixture a little, although I know that's not going to help at higher revs.

Opened up a carb -- 38 slow jet and 100 main. Both have no marking, so I assume they are aftermarket. Stock should be 38/98 so PO must have stepped up the main for the pods. I should add that the o-ring for the main isn't sealing -- it just dropped right out after I dropped the bowl.

I am going to put the pods back on for now, as I won't be going to AZ until April or May and I rely on this  bike to get to work and back (and cruise around). I am going to Columbus in two weeks so if there is a way I can get stuff there I might do that.

[HondaMan]

Have a look at the CB550F appendum and you can see all the cable and wiring harness routing on there. It makes a BIG difference when everything is routed correctly.

I'm always hesitant about saying stuff like this as some people seem to think I just sit at my PC and pick holes in their builds and nothing is farther from the truth.

If it wasn't for your detail there would be a lot of chafed cables and missing washers!