Topic: New Clutch Discs/Plates/Springs Slipping?

[Finnigan]

Test riding and breaking in my new build, when I accelerate VERY slowly there is no issue but when I go near the throttle at all the engine revs but doesn't accelerate.

Rotella Diesel 10W-40 Oil
Yamiya 'standard' clutch rebuild kit

Second time out I tried to fix by adjusting the clutch and having >.5 inches of slack in the handle with no change, I also backed out the adjuster nut on the clutch lifter another 1/2 turn.

Does it need time to break in and grab or do I have something that needs replacing?

[Oddjob]

What engine? suspect it's been assembled wrong, easy to get it wrong TBH.

[Finnigan]

cb750 late model engine

The instructions stated putting the thicker steel plates in the center, that's the only 'trick' I really noticed

[Oddjob]

You measured the plates at all?

I freely admit to not liking the 750 motor at all, as such whenever one came into the workshop I avoided it like the plague, as a result whilst I knew a fair bit about them I tend not to comment on them as I didn't even try to retain the knowledge. The 500/550 engine is a different story though, not much I don't know about those.

I'll leave this for the 750 experts out there, someone will be along shortly.

[HondaMan]

Is it possible that the back of the lifter plate is not in the grooves for it back there? This is very easy to do wrong in the 750. Then when new plates are installed they appear to 'sort of' be packed and closed, but they are not.

A word of caution here: if this might be the case, undo the clutch springs 1 turn at a time, no more. Otherwise you can crack the pressure plate.

A brand-new set of plates in a 750K4 & later type clutch with the dual-sprung plate will just barely grab each other if they are assembled with the pressure plate out-of-notch. This has happened several times here in the forums in the last 4 years and one of them ended up breaking the pressure plate when he simply unwound the little 6mm bolts one at a time, fully.

[scottly]

I also backed out the adjuster nut on the clutch lifter another 1/2 turn.

Adjust the lifter first; I set it so there is just a slight amount of movement, say 1-2mm, of the lever when pressed with my finger. If you have free play there and the clutch is still slipping, there is some sort of assembly error.

[Finnigan]

That did it, took apart the clutch and measured everything but nothing unexpected.  Adjusted this time with 1-2 mm of movement when I pushed on it and right away the lever felt different. Grabs strong, what a feeling!!

[HondaMan]

Good job!

[CB750R]

Ha, I’m in similar situation. My new clutch is slipping under load, need to take it apart and inspect everything. Used a break in oil that is JASO ma2, so shouldn’t be oil related in my case. Will see what I find, glad yours is sorted.

[Finnigan]

What I found from my first and failed attempt is that the 'resistance' that the manual references may not be exactly where the lifter is in contact.  Using the method of pushing on the adjuster screw collar like mentioned above is a direct measurement of the slack in the system.

[scottly]

What I found from my first and failed attempt is that the 'resistance' that the manual references may not be exactly where the lifter is in contact.

Exactly correct!