Topic: 400/4 ignition adjustment issues

[MDW]

I posted about this problem recently and thought it was fixed. I am having issues to adjust the points to align them with the firing mark. This is especially a problem for 2/3. No matter how I adjust the plate holding the points I cannot seem to get it closer that 1/4 inch away from the F mark. I replaced the points mounting screw recently and checked that the washers were magnetic in case I was somehow getting a false reading on the test bulb. I am sure this must be something simple because everything was running fine. I then changed the mounting screws and that messed everything up. However, I got that sorted and the only issue was that the bike was suddenly difficult to start, which was never a problem before. I then went to look a the points and saw that they were out of sync with the firing mark (the points gap is correct). I did notice that the timing light stay lit for quite some time (if the bulb lights up on 1/4 then as I rotate the engine it stays lit until right before 2/3 is meant to fire). Any suggestion on the above would be appreciated. Thanks

[Mikerts_Garage]

I usually fix this problem by adjusting the points gap to one end of the acceptable range or the other. For example. If 1-4 are dead on, but 2-3 are too retarded at full adjustment, i will close up the points gap on 2-3 to 0.012" and possibly open up the gap on 1-4 to 0.016". Both are still in spec but it brings the difference between the adjustments closer together.

Had to do this on my 350F last fall, hope it helps

[MDW]

Thanks a lot. I hadn't thought that would be enough to do the trick I but will try it out.

[Deltarider]

Are these OEM parts or imitations?

[MDW]

All from David Silver so not actual OEM

[Bodi]

You can adjust the gaps to make up a bit of the error. Set the 1-4 timing by rotating the plate with a .014 gap, lock the plate down. Try to get 2-3 in time with .014 gap. See what direction of 2-3 movement you're hitting the limit on. Clockwise? Set the 1-4 gap to .012 and retime it by moving the plate. This will be a small rotation clockwise as the smaller gap will mean the cam lobe is opening it before your previous setting. Then try 2-3 again. Still wants to go further clockwise? Open its gap to .016 and try it again. Anticlockwise, open the 1-4 gap and tighten the 2-3 gap.
You should use a strobe for final timing check/adjustment. A static light is not super accurate.
And: the plate being even a bit loose in the case is a big problem. With the 3 screws just touching the plate it should rotate fairly easy but any shift side-to-side is going to make timing a nightmare. Every time you rotate it for 1-4 timing you will get unpredictable changes on the 2-3 points. Do not (!!!) try to tap in the casting protrusions to tighten it up, they break off surprisingly easily (how do I know...). You can use a centre punch on the plate to push out metal a bit or put shims in. But it really makes a huge difference in doing timing when the plate is tight in the mount.
Hondaman's ignition module is worthwhile, it eliminates points wear from sparking so the timing changes only a fraction of how much it does without it. And, unlike a complete electronic ignition conversion where a failure means you're screwed, if it fails you just bypass it and go back to pure points ignition.

[MDW]

Thanks Bodi. I will take another look at the ignition and work through your suggestion. I have now got the the points opening on the F mark although she doesn't want to start. I will start again looking at the ignition then move to fuel/spark etc. As I mentioned earlier, everything was running well before I started messing with the timing. I haven't come across Hondaman's module, but right now I want to see if I can get her back to where she was a couple of weeks ago before investing in new kit.