Topic: Metal Coil around front brake line - useful purpose or aftermarket for show?

[kyle750]

Is the metal coil surrounding the front brake line in this CB750 master cylinder photo original Honda or aftermarket?  Does it serve a useful purpose or is it just an extra add-on for show??  I am quessing  stainless steel braided lines would be the ultimate brake line upgrade???

[newday777]

I've not seen a coil on a stock brake line before.

Yes stainless steel brake hoses are going to give the best stopping pressure to the piston.

[rotortiller]

Does it serve a useful purpose

Normally when employed in a useful manner it's for chafe protection in areas of hose movement causing rubbing.

[kyle750]

Does it serve a useful purpose

Normally when employed in a useful manner it's for chafe protection in areas of hose movement causing rubbing.

The coil does look like it would add protection for the rubber hose.  Is extra protection needed?

[newday777]

Does it serve a useful purpose

Normally when employed in a useful manner it's for chafe protection in areas of hose movement causing rubbing.

The coil does look like it would add protection for the rubber hose.  Is extra protection needed?

Not if you don't run into things while riding

[kyle750]

Not if you don't run into things while riding

  You're such a smart ass    Your earlier comment "Rebuild those petcocks" got me thinking and sure enough I took a good look at the petcock pile and decided to go ahead and rebuild the one in better condition (just for fun).   I  also ordered a petcock rebuild kit. My Thai friend Kannika cleaned the petcock today (inside and out)  and it looks like new.  With new seals, screws, and washers it should be good to go.  Thanks for being a smart ass! 

[BenelliSEI]

A thigh coil around a hose can also prevent kinking on lesser quality hoses. The Honda hoses don’t need them. FYI, the “stainless” lines are usually Teflon hoses inside a braided stainless piping.

[kyle750]

TBPH I really don't like the look of braided stainless steel hoses - they look too high tech and modern.  I  understand they maintain pressure much better than rubber hoses so they will provide stronger and more responsive stopping power - but I still don't like the look of them.

[BenelliSEI]

You can order them covered in any colour outer sleeve you want. I always use black, so they pretty much disappear.

[kyle750]

Silver coil over black rubber just looks vintage cool and looks like a snake

[kyle750]

I quess the term is "stainless steel brake line protector/gravel guard spring"  and it's cheap on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Brake-Protector-Gravel-Spring/dp/B01IRQXDZC?th=1

[kyle750]

You can order them covered in any colour outer sleeve you want. I always use black, so they pretty much disappear.

Although I think they would look good in black or silver I think black would look "less high tech"  and more vintage.  Right now I'm leaning toward function is more important than looks and I'm going with black braided stainless steel. Stopping power is very important to me. 

[MauiK3]

My stainless hoses are black and look stock although a bit skinnier. The lower hard line to the caliper is Monel (copper/nickel) which does not corrode. It all works well. I have plenty of pressure going to the two calipers and my brake handle does not bottom, has good feel.

[kyle750]

My stainless hoses are black and look stock although a bit skinnier. The lower hard line to the caliper is Monel (copper/nickel) which does not corrode. It all works well. I have plenty of pressure going to the two calipers and my brake handle does not bottom, has good feel.

Very good to know.  Thank you.  Any vendors sell sets of black stainless steel brake lines with correct banjo bolts that I can just bolt for on for the CB750 K1 or do they need to be custom made?  Thanks!

[Kelly E]

My stainless hoses are black and look stock although a bit skinnier. The lower hard line to the caliper is Monel (copper/nickel) which does not corrode. It all works well. I have plenty of pressure going to the two calipers and my brake handle does not bottom, has good feel.

Very good to know.  Thank you.  Any vendors sell sets of black stainless steel brake lines with correct banjo bolts that I can just bolt for on for the CB750 K1 or do they need to be custom made?  Thanks!

We use Apex Brakes for all our lines. When I replace old brake lines I save the coil springs. I use them on fuel lines that have to make sharp turns to prevent kinking. It also will protect the lines from chaffing.

[HondaMan]

I use them on fuel lines that have to make sharp turns to prevent kinking.

Bravo! On the 750K4/5/6 bikes with the 1-outlet petcock, this is a great idea.

We used "hard lines" on the roadracing bikes back when. This consisted of running [specially-bent and formed] hard brake line between the master cylinder and the mount on the triple tree. From there is went as smaller-diameter stainless-steel braided nylon line. This reduced the spongy-ness feeling that Honda introduced with the 750 - for fears of riders throwing themselves over the handlebars, it was said (in 1969). Mostly, the stainless-steel disc prevented that possibility, though.

[BenelliSEI]

APEX is my favorite source for brake lines. Raymond has made all the hoses for my projects. Bikes and race cars.

[kyle750]

Apex? They do look very well made 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/356482408955

[BenelliSEI]

Kyle….To be clear, those hoses are from APEX but that’s not APEX selling them.
Visit Apexbrakes.com for full details.

[kyle750]

Kyle….To be clear, those hoses are from APEX but that’s not APEX selling them.
Visit Apexbrakes.com for full details.

Thanks Mate.  Not ready to buy new brake lines yet.  Still making sure my old front brake with rebuilt master cylinder and rebuilt caliper are working OK. Right now I still have the old rubber hoses.   Front brake  works and stops the wheel when spinning it on the center stand but the real test will be on the road with speed and my fat ass in the saddle.

[kyle750]

A quick question for the Honda community.  Both my CB750 and CB550 are missing the damper plate to the underside of the master cylinder. Basically the brake lever bolt goes through this plate with a rubber plug to the other side and bolts to the underside.  I can see how this would help with vibration and make the brake operation a little smoother.

Is is neccessary to have this part?

[BenelliSEI]

It’s really a “bump stop” to prevent the lever from rattling when not loaded. It also somewhat limits the back travel so the lever stays closer to hydraulic piston.

[kyle750]

It’s really a “bump stop” to prevent the lever from rattling when not loaded. It also somewhat limits the back travel so the lever stays closer to hydraulic piston.

Very interesting.  Thank You Sir.   I would have never quessed this was the purpose.

[MauiK3]

No one asked but...
A lot of folks don't care for a dual disc setup. Yes it adds weight.
I put one on because it looks great, harkens back to Dick Mann and Daytona 500, and also feels great when stopping. Your lever feel (with a stock MC) is a bit better, not so wooden. Caliper alignment is key to a good setup, took me a few tries. Makes removing the front tire a little more difficult but not bad.
Yamiya has all of it. I sent my rotors to TruDisk for drilling (and surfacing), looks good, sheds water better, saves a tiny bit of weight.

[Stev-o]

Kyle….To be clear, those hoses are from APEX but that’s not APEX selling them.
Visit Apexbrakes.com for full details.

That eBay seller is near Dallas.

Apex is in Canada...

http://www.apexbrakes.com/custom.asp

[kyle750]

Visit Apexbrakes.com for full details.

Thanks Mate.  I really like Apex brakes ordering system.  It will be a while until I can upgrade the brake lines.    I'm trying to focus on getting the bike on the road first and upgrades later. 

[PeWe]

No one asked but...
A lot of folks don't care for a dual disc setup. Yes it adds weight.
I put one on because it looks great, harkens back to Dick Mann and Daytona 500, and also feels great when stopping. Your lever feel (with a stock MC) is a bit better, not so wooden. Caliper alignment is key to a good setup, took me a few tries. Makes removing the front tire a little more difficult but not bad.
Yamiya has all of it. I sent my rotors to TruDisk for drilling (and surfacing), looks good, sheds water better, saves a tiny bit of weight.

Then you get a brake that works.
My K6 has dual stock front brakes, new rotors from DSS.
Stops fine after 160kmh

My K2 has single, also new rotor. Plan the ride, do not try to use brake after 100kmh to avoid accident. Use the throttle and steer....

[carnivorous chicken]

A quick question for the Honda community.  Both my CB750 and CB550 are missing the damper plate to the underside of the master cylinder. Basically the brake lever bolt goes through this plate with a rubber plug to the other side and bolts to the underside.  I can see how this would help with vibration and make the brake operation a little smoother.

Is is neccessary to have this part?

Second the not necessary. A lot of bikes I've gone through have the cap and screw but the rubber has deteriorated. Super simple to just use a little piece of rubber gasket material to approximate the original and stop the brake lever from rattling.

[BenelliSEI]

Visit Apexbrakes.com for full details.

Thanks Mate.  I really like Apex brakes ordering system.  It will be a while until I can upgrade the brake lines.    I'm trying to focus on getting the bike on the road first and upgrades later.

Kyle….. when I order from them, I usually lay out the line on a clean piece of cardboard. Use a marker to indicate the length and make sure the picture clearly shows the ends. Include the make, year and model. They have enough experience that is all the info they need. Take that picture now (while you have it apart) so you have it later.

[Don R]

 I ordered brake hoses from an ebay seller for my GL1000, all three hoses had springs. I asked if they were needed and the reply was the manufacturer put them on by accident, I could remove any springs that I didn't want to leave in place. They are tricky to get started but then they unwind rather easily.

[kyle750]

Second the not necessary. A lot of bikes I've gone through have the cap and screw but the rubber has deteriorated. Super simple to just use a little piece of rubber gasket material to approximate the original and stop the brake lever from rattling.

I really like your idea of just stuffing a new piece of rubber in the hole. Plate might help keep the rubber in place but will probably work OK without it.  Often the simpliest and easiest solution is the best.  Thank You Sir!

[Kelly E]

Second the not necessary. A lot of bikes I've gone through have the cap and screw but the rubber has deteriorated. Super simple to just use a little piece of rubber gasket material to approximate the original and stop the brake lever from rattling.

I really like your idea of just stuffing a new piece of rubber in the hole. Plate might help keep the rubber in place but will probably work OK without it.  Often the simpliest and easiest solution is the best.  Thank You Sir!

I cut a chunk off of a proper diameter o-ring to fix that.

[BenelliSEI]

Second the not necessary. A lot of bikes I've gone through have the cap and screw but the rubber has deteriorated. Super simple to just use a little piece of rubber gasket material to approximate the original and stop the brake lever from rattling.

I really like your idea of just stuffing a new piece of rubber in the hole. Plate might help keep the rubber in place but will probably work OK without it.  Often the simpliest and easiest solution is the best.  Thank You Sir!

I cut a chunk off of a proper diameter o-ring to fix that.

That’s what I use!