Topic: remove forks 1972 CB750K2 help

[crashmaster]

I am having trouble removing the forks from the triple tree. I want to change the gaiters and remove/derust the headlight brackets. I have the 2 sets of clamps loose. I also see there is an allen bolt in the very bottom of the forks (inside). Do I mess with that? Or does that just connect the upper and lower fork halves? See attached pics

My next move was to tap a similar size socket on top of the fork tube at the triple tree to try to free it up/get it started. Or put the caps back on the forks first and tap them with a dead blow mallet. Thought I better ask first in case I am missing something. Thanks

[kyle750]

I just finished redoing my front forks on my K1 and installed new fork ears, bushings, fork seals, and gaiters. Fortunately both of the forks came out easily.  I sprayed WD-40 around the triple tree and around the rubber bushings and placed a piece of wood on top of the fork tube bolts and hit them firmly with a hammer. I hit all my old bolts with a hammer hoping the blow loosens up the rust.  Then grabbed each fork tube firmly while twisting and pulling down and out. Took some force and wiggling but they slid out.  If the tubes are rusted at the triple tree clamps you might try carefully prying open the vertical cut with a screwdriver and then try to get more WD-40 inside.

Late Edit:  I also wore thick heavy duty rubber gloves when pulling out the forks.  The tubes are slippery and the grip on the gloves really helped with the twisting and pulling. 

[Ozzybud]

With the two different metals the corrosion can be quite cumbersome.
Take the clamp bolts all the way out.
Apply some penetrating oil.
Use a hard plastic wedge to slightly spread the clamp.
Start by twisting  the fork tube to break it free.
Keep twisting and pulling downward.
The bolt on the bottom only needs to be removed if you are rebuilding the forks.
As above if you need to use a mallet
 . Put the caps back in and tap down.

[bryanj]

All pinch bolts all the way out
GENTLY pry apart the gap in the trees pull fork down, it will be tight and corroded.

DO NOT undo the allen bolt unless you are replacing seals, and it wont undo with springs and top nut out anyway

[crashmaster]

Hey thanks, guys. Got em out!

Is it smart to replace the seals while it is apart? When draining the left fork oil, the first couple squirts looked very clear/ waterish before oil came later. The right side looked like oil from the start.

[kyle750]

Hey thanks, guys. Got em out!

Is it smart to replace the seals while it is apart?

Yes.  Fork seals are inexpensive.  Easy to replace while the forks are out - better now than later.    My old fork oil was black and thick like road tar and smelled awful.

[crashmaster]

thanks, Kyle. The allen bolts seemed super tight. Any advice on releasing them? Any other parts in there that need updating? Thanks again

[kyle750]

thanks, Kyle. The allen bolts seemed super tight. Any advice on releasing them? Any other parts in there that need updating? Thanks again

The fork damper allen bolts were torqued in tight on my bike but I was able to crack them loose with a regular allen wrench.  Be careful to remove and save the crush washers as they will definitely be needed on the reinstall.

[newday777]

thanks, Kyle. The allen bolts seemed super tight. Any advice on releasing them? Any other parts in there that need updating? Thanks again

You need to have the top caps on in place to put enough pressure on the springs to hold the damper tight to unscrew the Allen bolt, then used an impact gun or hand impact driver to break free the allen bolt. Then remove the top cap from the fork. Clean the inside out very well before reassembly.

[Rayzerman]

Old trick for getting the top cap off (later)... before removing forks, loosen top pinch bolt and loosen top cap a turn or two.  Remove forks, then you won't have to clamp them in something to get the fork caps off....... as mentioned, leave caps on when removing lower bolt.

[crashmaster]

Thanks guys