Topic: Sparty's APE crank

[sparty]

Guys,

Here are some pics of my modified APE crank for the engine build.  Mike just sent me the pics.

Sparty

[Sam Green Racing]

It's a shame you don't have before and after pics, or can this still be done, got a spare stock crank hanging about Mike ?

Sam.

[sparty]

Here is a before pic.

[sparty]

And another.

[Sam Green Racing]

Did you remove any of the generator end ?

Sam.

[Sweep]

They have my crank as well as cylinders for boring and head for headwork.  When the Carillos arrive the job will be done and I get my parts back.

[Big Jay]

You should have posted a photo of the balance sheet that came with it
 

Jay

[MRieck]

Did you remove any of the generator end ?

Sam.

No Sam...it's intact.

[MRieck]

You should have posted a photo of the balance sheet that came with it
 

Jay

That can certainly be done.

[scondon]

Here's an old thread that includes the data sheet that came with my crank

http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=15465.0


     Sparty, I gotta say I'm a tad envious. We both have near the same engine, but you get the confidence of having yours put together by someone who really knows what they're doing

      What carbs will you be using?

[MRieck]

Thanks for that thread Sean and the compliment. He'll be using CR-29's

[scondon]

Thanks for that thread Sean and the compliment. He'll be using CR-29's

   Excellent. I can't wait to ditch the stockers I'm using for break-in (they are such a pain to tune to this motor). The CR's mix and deliver fuel sooooo much better.

    Thanks for all the progress reports, Sparty. You definitely have a winner in the works

[sparty]

Thanks for that thread Sean and the compliment. He'll be using CR-29's

   Excellent. I can't wait to ditch the stockers I'm using for break-in (they are such a pain to tune to this motor). The CR's mix and deliver fuel sooooo much better.

    Thanks for all the progress reports, Sparty. You definitely have a winner in the works

Thanks for that thread Sean and the compliment. He'll be using CR-29's

I'll be running the CR 29's but I have been debating sending them back for the 31's.

[scondon]

   If your carbs are still "new in box" and you have the option to exchange, I'd say go for it. I got my 29's off of Mike who was switching up to 31's at the time. He should be able to tell ya what gains are to be had. I imagine that the 31's would have an edge in the 8500+ rpm range when the engine really starts suckin' air.

    I only ran the 29's for 20 miles when I got them. They needed some tuning to match my engine and my F2 petcock banged into them so I pulled them off for future use. But damn, they sure woke the bike up once I got on the throttle. A real improvement.

[sparty]

   If your carbs are still "new in box" and you have the option to exchange, I'd say go for it. I got my 29's off of Mike who was switching up to 31's at the time. He should be able to tell ya what gains are to be had. I imagine that the 31's would have an edge in the 8500+ rpm range when the engine really starts suckin' air.

    I only ran the 29's for 20 miles when I got them. They needed some tuning to match my engine and my F2 petcock banged into them so I pulled them off for future use. But damn, they sure woke the bike up once I got on the throttle. A real improvement.

The CR's are new in the box.  I haven't even touched them yet. I think that Buzz would exchange them for me, since he sold me a few thousand dollars worth of goodies. 

I am sure that the 29's would be more than fine, but I would expect 2 or 3 more HP with the 31's.

Art

[RRRToolSolutions]

Art, the 29's were identical in price to the 31's, but Buzz told me 4-5 times I didn't want the 31's. He sounded sure of himself so I went with his 29 suggestions.

When you get ready to mount them, let me suggest you go to the local Kawasaki dealer and order a remote idle setting cable. You can then have the threads cut off of it and the CR threads welded on along with a flat washer for the tension spring-stop. Jim can make you a bracket to hold it in place. That CR screw is only accessable with the tank removed and a long scredriver - not ok for a street driven bike.

Here is a finished pick -Regards,
Gordon

[sparty]

Art, the 29's were identical in price to the 31's, but Buzz told me 4-5 times I didn't want the 31's. He sounded sure of himself so I went with his 29 suggestions.

When you get ready to mount them, let me suggest you go to the local Kawasaki dealer and order a remote idle setting cable. You can then have the threads cut off of it and the CR threads welded on along with a flat washer for the tension spring-stop. Jim can make you a bracket to hold it in place. That CR screw is only accessable with the tank removed and a long scredriver - not ok for a street driven bike.

Here is a finished pick -Regards,
Gordon

Gordon,

That is what I will do with your help if you have the time.

Art

[RRRToolSolutions]

Art, you'll want to order part # 16021-1204 SCREW-THROTTLE STOP, $45.52. These are made to adjust 4 carbs at once and are the perfect length.

I'll be glad to help.

Regards,
Gordon

[sparty]

Art, you'll want to order part # 16021-1204 SCREW-THROTTLE STOP, $45.52. These are made to adjust 4 carbs at once and are the perfect length.

I'll be glad to help.

Regards,
Gordon

Gordon,

I read your post about throttle cables on your CR's.  My bike is a 1972 and I was wondering if the stock push and pull cables would work.  I know that you had to drill out the threads on yours.  I sent my new intake boots to Mike to have the carb tuning fittings installed in them.

Art

[RRRToolSolutions]

Art, Mike, let me recommend one more thing - go to Lowes and get you 4 100% stainless steel hose clamps. Get the 2~3" size. These will let you drill a small hole in them to fit over the brass nipple, but hold the sholder down onto the rubber boot. That specific size allows you to cut virtually all of the slotted portion off and gives a rust-free finish. I did that just as insurance that a backfire or lean-spit didn't turn my syncronizer nipples into projectiles or leave a hole there to draw air and burn a piston should the glue ever work loose and let the nipple come out. The cost - < $5 for all 4, the peace of mind - priceless. Take your time and plan better than I did so your screws are all hidden to the inside the first time (I thought about after I'd drilled and installed 3 of them and had to go back and buy more to do it all over again). Again, it's cheap insurance.

Notice the difference in the two pics - first without, second with the clamps.

On the cables, take your carbs to a bench and hook your cables up to be sure what's needed. The CR's are designed to accept the 6mm threaded cable that can be turned "into" the CR bracket. The 1974 cable has the right 6mm threads, but they are fixed to the cable and do not turn. Your 1972 cable may have a free-turning thread ferrell. I would not recommend putting the carb side on first and then installing at the handle simply because you've got to adjust the push/pull overlap. The drilling out of the threads for mine was very straightforward, just don't do it after they are installed (again I learned the hard way).

[sparty]

Gordon,

Great advice, I also read that in a post of yours way back.  I am also in need of new OE manifold clamps.  My old ones have had it.  When can I find them?  Or should I find a narrow ss clamp?

Art

[Jonesy]

Honda still had them. They are now black coated and have hex-headed phillips screws (makes tightening easier and less chance of the phillips part stripping out!).

[MRieck]

Gordon,

Great advice, I also read that in a post of yours way back.  I am also in need of new OE manifold clamps.  My old ones have had it.  When can I find them?  Or should I find a narrow ss clamp?

Art

I'll order some Art

[sparty]

Gordon,

Great advice, I also read that in a post of yours way back.  I am also in need of new OE manifold clamps.  My old ones have had it.  When can I find them?  Or should I find a narrow ss clamp?

Art

I'll order some Art

Thanks Mike.

[RRRToolSolutions]

Yes, they are still available. I bought 8 last fall and 4 more just 3-4 weeks ago for the CB450 K0 project. As Jonesy said, they are black. Mine came with black phillips heads. I think the price is around $8 each.