Author Topic: Yet another clutch question.  (Read 1664 times)

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Offline old750

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Yet another clutch question.
« on: August 16, 2007, 10:37:17 AM »
This is happening after installing my new vesra clutch springs on a 72 750k. I've searched the forums and can't find everything that I'm looking for.

The clutch cable adjustment just isn't helping. Even with zero play and a really tight cable, the clutch is still engaged a bit when I pull it in in first. The bike is creeping.

Does the clutch adjuster nut and screw adjust "preload" on the clutch springs or is it actually pulling the clutch out? I've looked at the assembly diagrams (cutaway views etc) and can't figure out how it all works.

Offline dusterdude

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Re: Yet another clutch question.
« Reply #1 on: August 16, 2007, 11:33:42 AM »
never done a honda,but i think the principle is the same as old harleys.you loosen the jamb nut and turn the screw in until it touches the pushrod and then back off a tad and lock it down,then you can adjust the cable.if im wrong i do hope someone will correct me.good l uck
mark
1972 k1 750
1949 fl panhead
1 1/2 gl1100 goldwings
1998 cbr600 f3

Offline old750

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Re: Yet another clutch question.
« Reply #2 on: August 16, 2007, 12:23:54 PM »
I've done that and the clutch is still dragging bad. I want to know what that nut actually does. Does it preload the spring without pulling out the clutch or does it actually pull the clutch out. I want to know because I wont mess with it if it means that my clutch will always be slipping a bit.

Offline Tower

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Re: Yet another clutch question.
« Reply #3 on: August 16, 2007, 12:26:48 PM »
The further you screw-in the clutch adjuster bolt, the more pressure is applied to the clutch lifter plate and hence the more compression of the clutch springs and separation of the clutch plates.  Was that your question?

edit:  The adjustor bolt should not be pressing the clutch lifter piece (sometimes referred to as the Thrust Bearing) otherwise it would wear superfast.  You must unscrew the bolt several turns then screw-in the bolt until the lifter is engaged (touching) then back-off a 1/4-turn and lock-in with the jamb nut.  This "zeroes" your clutch position.  Then move to the clutch lever (at the clutch cover) to begin the cable tension adjustment.
« Last Edit: August 16, 2007, 02:22:58 PM by Tower »

Offline Tower

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Re: Yet another clutch question.
« Reply #4 on: August 16, 2007, 01:02:29 PM »
The problem you are experiencing probably isn't because you can't compress the springs enough to lift the plates free of each other.  Is is possible that the oil holes are clogged or missaligned and that the plates are not separating properly because of this?  Was the clutch centre pulled to replace the springs?  and if so did you assemble it in the same position (or 180 degrees off?)

Offline old750

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Re: Yet another clutch question.
« Reply #5 on: August 16, 2007, 02:19:09 PM »
I replaced the springs as per the book and torqued them down as per the book. Maybe I just need to fiddle around a bit more.