Topic: Has anybody document the whole process of using fiberglass??

[yd72]

I sure like to get as many info as possible to get myself back to the right track.
A few week back, I try to use fiberglass to make myself a seat using my friend's cafe seat, but it was completed failure. Firstly, I got the mixture wrong, the mixture went up in smoke and harden in a minute, OMG.......
Secondly, I try laying one layer and the thing did not dry and hardened not after a few days.

I read alot on how to use and make cafe seat, but it was not as seem as easy as I thought it was.

Has Anybody did a full documentation on making the fiberglass cafe seat with photo and explanation.
Or can anybody teach me the basic steps of mixing and laying the fiberglass with step by step instructions? I am using fiber cloth, do I cut into small pieces or just lay on the mould?
Or direct me to any website that teaches that.

I had so high hopes of doing my own seat, maybe other projects, read so much, it was like so easy wanted to have a go at it, but it was completed failure and has demoralised me.

Appreciated anybody who can help.



 

[rbmgf7]

i dabbled a little with the stuff and i hatted it

well, getting the mix ratios should be on the directions. if it cured in an hour, i'd say you added too much hardener. the stuff i dealt with was 2 resin to 1 hardener

if it didn't cure until a few days later then either you put too much on, the ratios are still wrong, or the surrounding temperature/humidity changed.

i dealt with Wicks Aircraft EZ fiberglassing kits. it costs some $$$ but fairly easy and good quality.

if you can, use the woven material. apply with brushes and keep it light but not runny. just contour the material as best as you can. if it requires cutting then do so. do one layer at a time, then cure, another layer, then cure...until you get what you want. probably wouldn't want more then 6 layers. then once finihsed, just carry out as if doing body work.

don't quote me since i just played aournd with the stuff. i was given a crash course by a friend who deals with composites all the time (fiberglass, kevlar, carbon, pre-preg, etc...). whenever i finished the projects, it came out fine and useful. sorry, don't know and websites myself but try google, he has all the answers.

good luck!   

[obnoxshuz]

this is what I came across when I was researching fiberglass seat pan...

http://www.jeffreyphipps.com/seat_pans.htm

[greenjeans]

I used "bondo" fiberglass mesh & resin that I got at Walmart...  The ratios are VERY important when mixing.  take your time when measuring.  You can also use West Systems epoxy resins - very similar to the Bondo, only you can get them in a pump style dispenser that meters the resin & hardener accurately (no need for measuring)  You can find that stuff at some boating supply places.  West Marine Systems is the company name.  It is more expensive. They also have different hardeners to increase or decrase the working/hardening time.   With the stuff I bought at Wal-Mart, I pretty much followed the instructions on the can.   Get some tin foil, disposable plastic cups and disposible paint brushes.  Put the foil down under the seat pan and what ever you don't want to have resin on, and cut your fiberglass mesh or cloth to roughly the shape you need before mixing the resin.  After you mix your resin, QUICKLY brush some resin on both the cloth/mesh and the piece you're glassing  and poke it down with the tip of the brush....brushing kinda drags the cloth/mesh around. 
Mix up only as much as you need for each layer.   The stuff I got at Wal-Mart hardened fairly quickly so I was able to do 3-4 layers in an afternoon.   I did notice, that the hotter it was outside, the quicker my resin hardened.   Measuring the resin and hardener is CRITICAL...  A cheap trick instead of using your wife's good measuring cups is to get disposable cups at the grocery store (the clear kind you get at the cheap bars) some will have ribs on them - get those.  pour some water to one of the lines on the cups and measure the water with your wife's measuring cups.  That way you can mix an accurate amount every time.... If it says 10 drops per 2 oz or whatever - make sure you use 10 drops.....  Then you should have not problems.

1 last time, measure carefully, mix only what you need for each layer, and work quickly.
Good luck, and take some pics

[c91x]

you know do a search on fiberglass enclosures for subwoofers. a couple years back i made one and now i've done about 10 different fiberglass projects and most my knowledge came from reading up on that

[matchanu]

I build my seat and gas tank out of fiberglass.

All I can really say is, trial and error.

Use the mat when possible, it is much more efficient than the weave. The weave is cleaner to work with, so use that for the final layer.

I usually mix about a cup or more, give it a squirt of hardner, mix it and lay it on. Dab the mat in with a paint brush, if it's still pretty wet and it's not hardning yet, add another layer and dab it in.


I am pure amature hour, but I'm getting a little better everytime I work with it. Do your best to get out any air bubbles, and sand down any high spots before your next lay up. Don't fret over bubbles if you get any, just and them our and lay up another layer.

A seat is only going to need about 2-3 layers, if that. My gas tank has about 6-8 layers, I wanted the extra strength, (it's lined with POR-15 in case anyone is asking).

Just keep playing with it, it'll get easier once you get the hang of it.

Are you usung foam core to make you shape?

[paulages]

go to a boating supply store if you have one near you. you can buy pump caps for the resin and hardener bottles that automatically meter the correct proportions. i posted a thread when i made my seat a while back, roughly outlining the process:
http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=7362.0

for fiberglassing tutorials, just google it. there are plenty of helpful sites out there.

[Bodi]

My limited experience has taught me to avoid the stuff.
But what I've learned:
Get a bunch of cheapo plastic gloves, rubber gloves, whatever is cheap. A bunch.
Get a bunch of cheap paint brushes, as stiff as you can find and no bigger than 2" wide.
Get a bunch of foil loaf pans, these are a nice size to mix and brush the resin from.
The idea of using cheap plastic cups for measuring is good, you can buy paper cups with measuring graduations printed inside but clear cups work fine, just measure how high 1 cup of water is and mark the cups at that height. Buy or steal a bunch of wooden coffee stirrers or "popsicle sticks" for mixing the resin. Plastic ones may dissolve in the resin and are too flimsy anyway.
Cut the random mat or woven cloth with scissors you don't like, cutting glass will ruin them for anything else. Be careful with the matt, it sheds fibres that are amazingly itchy when they get in your clothes (unavoidable, as far as I know).
The instructions always want you to dip the fibreglass sheet/strip in the resin: DON"T DO IT! This turns the relatively easy-to-handle dry cloth into a great slimy ball of sticky snot, shedding incredibly sticky and annoying slimy fibre strands. Brush some resin on your form or whatever, lay the dry cloth carefully on the resin - it will stick in place but you can mold it into place with a fibreglass squeegee.
Once you have resin on your gloves or hands, handling the cloth becomes comical - it just sticks to you and you can't let go. So change gloves for each application of cloth.
Then brush more resin on and work the surface with the squeegee until the cloth is saturated and as bubble free as you can manage.
Mixed properly, the resin will be reasonably liquid for about 15 minutes and unusably thick after a half hour. So only mix small batches at a time.
Each mix usually means sacrificing a cup, pan, brush, mixing stick, and several pairs of gloves.
With this system I have done pretty good body repairs on cars, but I've never tried making a tank or cafe seat.
It's still a stinky, messy, itchy... nasty job.

[mlinder]

Pauls FG seat is pretty damned nice. Even close inspection looks great.
By the way, wheres the aluminum seat?

[paulages]

Pauls FG seat is pretty damned nice. Even close inspection looks great.
By the way, wheres the aluminum seat?

sitting in my basement. been too broke to send it to my upholstery guy in the dalles (does killer work). i should get it finished though, so i can swap back and forth between the two.

[mlinder]

Sell it to me, then you can afford the upholstery for it...

Oh wait, that doesn't work.

[paulages]

Sell it to me, then you can afford the upholstery for it...

Oh wait, that doesn't work.

part of the reason i wanted to have this guy upholster it is because i wanted it to be my prototype of more to come... but then billy crashed and doesn't have the money to pay for his portion of the english wheel. so it's all on hold, but there will be more aluminum seats in the future...

[lightning]

Step1: Cellophane of your bike frame and make sure every thing else is covered. use some cardboard if you need to fill in voids

Step 2: Mix up about 2 to 3 cups of resin. Form the Mat onto your frame area. Apply the resin and don't make it to soupy.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2067&familyName=Fiberglass+Mat

Step 3: Roll the mat out with this, GET ALL THE AIR BUBBLES OUT!!! Let it kick.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2106&familyName=Bodi+Econo+Line+Epoxy+Rollers


Step 4: Shape your cloth on your hardened skin.  Apply fresh batch of resin and repeat step 3.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2070&familyName=Fiberglass+Cloth+-+6+Ounce

Be very, and I mean very careful when mixing that stuff because it will combust and catch fire if you mix it with too much catalyst.  MEK can be dangerous stuff if mixed in improper ratios.

Don't use cheap latex gloves either, best bet is to buy some thick rubber dish washing gloves.  The stuff will clean up real good with acetone so remember to clean your roller out with that between uses. Wear some googles and make sure the windows and doors are open too.  It would also be best not to do this out in sunlight either. 

Get the stuff, read the mixing instructions and have some fun.

[mlinder]

Sell it to me, then you can afford the upholstery for it...

Oh wait, that doesn't work.

part of the reason i wanted to have this guy upholster it is because i wanted it to be my prototype of more to come... but then billy crashed and doesn't have the money to pay for his portion of the english wheel. so it's all on hold, but there will be more aluminum seats in the future...

How much (to get the english wheel)?
And, how is billy? Tell him hullos. Should go see him.

[paulages]

Sell it to me, then you can afford the upholstery for it...

Oh wait, that doesn't work.

part of the reason i wanted to have this guy upholster it is because i wanted it to be my prototype of more to come... but then billy crashed and doesn't have the money to pay for his portion of the english wheel. so it's all on hold, but there will be more aluminum seats in the future...

How much (to get the english wheel)?
And, how is billy? Tell him hullos. Should go see him.

a decent set of anvils is about $250-$300. i already fabricated the stand itself-- it just needs a little more bracing. billy's doing ok--been getting him out a bit.

[yd72]

I build my seat and gas tank out of fiberglass.

All I can really say is, trial and error.

Use the mat when possible, it is much more efficient than the weave. The weave is cleaner to work with, so use that for the final layer.

I usually mix about a cup or more, give it a squirt of hardner, mix it and lay it on. Dab the mat in with a paint brush, if it's still pretty wet and it's not hardning yet, add another layer and dab it in.


I am pure amature hour, but I'm getting a little better everytime I work with it. Do your best to get out any air bubbles, and sand down any high spots before your next lay up. Don't fret over bubbles if you get any, just and them our and lay up another layer.

A seat is only going to need about 2-3 layers, if that. My gas tank has about 6-8 layers, I wanted the extra strength, (it's lined with POR-15 in case anyone is asking).

Just keep playing with it, it'll get easier once you get the hang of it.

Are you usung foam core to make you shape?

Hi to everybody,

Thanks for all the info and advices. It has really boost my confident already.
I am very curious, how you did your tank? Wont the tank leak out gas?? How would you fix the gas cap on?

 

[paulages]

there's a how-to in the articles section about making a fiberglass tank.

[matchanu]

Hi to everybody,

Thanks for all the info and advices. It has really boost my confident already.
I am very curious, how you did your tank? Wont the tank leak out gas?? How would you fix the gas cap on?

 

Nope. Many tanks of yesteryear were made of fiberglass. The racing tanks still are, but not recommended for street use.

Here's that major problem with useing fiberglass for a gas tank. Gasoline used to have no affect on fiberglass, but with the new additives of ethonal (sometimes cleaverly mis-labled as "oxygenated gas") can reak havok on the resin. Ethonal is a stripping agent like acetone. The effects will not be immediate. The resin will break down over time and end up in your carburator, combustion chambers, valves, etc.., bad ju ju.

The cure? a tank liner like POR-15 or some of the many other variants.

Boaters are really feeling the effects of ethonal in their fiberglass gas tanks. They do not have the option of lining the tank as it's not feasible.

As a side note, ethonal is not only bad for fiberglass (unprotected) but reaks havok on your fuel lines and gaskets as well. It'll cut at least half the life from these components.

Don't believe me? Buy some new rubber fuel line, install it, check it a week later.

Use the poly line if you can get it.


Anyway, my tank is working very well so far.