So after a 200 mile ride I noticed that my chain had too much slack; it is the original one, 36 year old, and with that red rust colour, so I thought it was a good time to replace it.
I know, I could have simply grinded the old one and put a new one, as I don't mind using a clip link and using a rivet link is a big PITA, but I was waiting for the chain replacement to replace the swingarm axle to and istall another one with modern grease zerks. So the story goes like this:
Remove the wheel. In order to remove the axle you have to remove the left exhaust first.
When the pipes were out I realized that probably, just by removing the shock bolts, the swingarm would have fallen enough for the axle to get out. OK, while I'm at it, I will clean the bottom and inner side of the exhaust. But it's stupid to clean only the left side, so off with the right side pipes too.
My rear brake was very easy to lock, some kind of "on-off" brake, so while I'm at it, I will replace the brake pads, that still are the original ones.
Sometime in the bike's past, acid spillt from the battery, and along with water from the wheel, the swingarm was slightly rusted in the front side. No problem, while I'm at it, I will mask what looks fine and paint the rest.... ooops, the colour don't match, I will have to paint the whole swingarm.
WD40 and steel wool makes wonders on the pipes. When it was too late, the guy at the chrome shop told me not to do it. They recommend using Autosol, that doesn't scratch. I have to say I don't see any scratches in the chrome, but lighting it with a flashlight shows up some tiny scratches. In any case, I don't think WD40 and steel wool is that bad, actually I think it's pretty gentle with the chrome and hard on the rust.
Well, while I'm at it, it may be a good moment to improve the braking. Time to replace the front master cylinder. I got myself a second disc and caliper and thought about going twin disc and braided hoses, but as it takes a special holder bracket, I thought about replacing only the caliper so I could tell what a difference does it make. The Suzuki GZ250 cylinder doesn't look good; the Honda CB750 looks much better, and the mirror hole is in front of the handlebar, and not behind.
The swingarm bushings were not that good. It would be silly to reuse them, so while I'm at it, new bushings go in.
The front sprocket oil seal is 36 years old; for the cost of it, while I'm at it, it would be a good idea to replace it. Damn, it is hard to smash it in with the gear cover. It came in slightly tilted and part of the rubber peeled off. Hopefully it won't leak.
Some time ago I broke the inner bolt of the sprocket oiler. I got a replacement, but while I was at it, I thought about repairing the broken one. A dremel tool, a cutting disc, and the old oiler goes in.
Swingarm axle with modern grease zerk goes in; now it's just a dab of grease with every oil change.
The new chain goes in; as stated in some posts of this forum, the chain doesn't rub anywhere. It looks terrific!
While I'm at it, I will replace the exhaust copper gaskets. And even when the flange bolts were easy to remove, while I'm at it I will replace the bolts for allen heads.
Master cylinder goes in, and the brakes are bled.
I was waiting to synch the carbs, so while I'm at it, let's do it. They were a little out of synch...
...but in ten minutes they were synched.
Two months in the dry dock and today I took the first ride.
1. I didn't reinstall the baffles. The bike sounds a little louder, but hesitates at low and middle throttle. It runs great at 5K.
2. I didn't notice any difference because of the carb synch.
3. I still can lock the rear wheel. I noticed though, that I can easily lock it with the clutch lever pressed, but it is hard -almost impossible- to lock it with the clutch lever released, even if the engine is idling -obviously, with the bike moving fast-.
4. I didn't notice any big difference in the braking. Actually, I would say there was no difference but I have to convince myself that the money I spent is worth it. Next step will be to replace the brake pads -still running the original ones-. If the braking improves, I will probably go back to the original master cylinder, if only for the originality factor. What I would say, as compared to modern bikes, is that with this setup, the first part of the handle pressure actually slows the bike down, but from the moment that the lever is parallel to the bar, you have to press it real tight to slightly increase the stopping power. I think the pads have much to do with it, so they will be next before braided lines.
5. I noticed a slightly improvement in gear changes, specially in downshifts, where I used to get many false neutrals and had a lot of "sprocket rattle" when trying to insert a gear back.
