Topic: Buffing Aluminum

[bunghole]

I have a question of my own.

How fine a sandpaper do you go to before using the black rouge?  It seems like the black rouge is pretty aggressive and will even take out scratches from 240 paper.

[Dave-and-his-550]

So did you use the stripper already?

I used acetone right before I took that pic.

Damn, I bought steel wool #0000 and 2000 grit sand paper! I glanced at those 3m sanding pads and didn't think much of them...I told the guys at Oreily's Auto Parts about the steel wool potentially rusting aluminum and they looked at me like I was an idiot. Also, they didn't seem to know anything about those rouges you're all talking about, can some one shed some light on em for me? I'm gonna go out and sand with 2000 grit and get back to ya'll. 

[bunghole]

Rouge is basically a wax based abrasive that you load onto a buffing wheel to apply to the piece:

http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffing.htm

You should be able to find it anywhere.

[bunghole]

Here is some good how to info from that site:

http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffman.htm

[Dave-and-his-550]

THanks for the info. Well here it is, my 2000 grit left crank case cover:

...Doesn't look that much different then the 400 grit...Did I screw up by not doing 1000 or 800 in between the 400 and 2000? Maybe I made to much of a jump in the um, grittness

[mystic_1]

Nope, you can't jump straight from 400 to 2000.  The 2000 is too fine to remove the scratch marks from the 400.

From 400 go to 600 or 800.  Sand until all the marks from the 400 are gone.  You're wet-sanding, yes?

From 800 go to 1000 and again sand until all the marks from the 800 are gone.

After 1000 you don't really need to go much finer unless you're aiming for a mirror polish, in which case progress through 1500 to 2000.

After that use your wheel and rouge (commonly known as "polishing compound" and sold in sticks next to the buffing wheels in your local hardware store).  Step through the compounds similarly to how you did the paper.  How far you go depends on the finish you're going for.


On the other hand, if you stopped now and clear-coated that cover, it would be pretty darn close to the OEM finish.

cheers
mystic_1

[Dave-and-his-550]

Awesome, thank you for the directions Mystic. I'm gonna do this tomorrow

[bunghole]

I also find it helpful to sand each grit in a direction that is 90 degrees from the last grit.  Then you can really tell when you've removed the scratches from the last grit.

[rbmgf7]

on the topic of buffing aluminum, i experimented with another route.

i just got a hefty used air compressor and die grinder. stumbled upon 3m's roloc scotch brite pads. these come in excellent for severely corroded/oxidized parts. the rolocs come in different grades: course, med. and fine. i've used med. to remove and fine to polish. after the aluminum appears consistent, i take it to the buffer and polish it. for my polisher, i have a homemade rig with 2 lowes buffing pads and the green stick compund also found at lowes. this really knocks down polishing time from what took me days to just about half an hour. i'll get some pics up once i get the engine done (it's an XJ1100 engine i've been working on)

[NE550]

rbmgf,

  When I tackled my project I used a buffing wheel attached to an electric drill.  It took forever.  However it got the job done.  On one of the threads on the first page someone stated that you can polish one day and still have tarnish the next, so true.  I recommend cleaning thoroughly cleaning each piece after each step.  I must say that it was well worth the time and effort to polish the aluminum it made the bike look like new.  Also on the first page of the thread I posted the steps I used, just an FYI.

good luck, Matt

[gruvedoktor]

what kind of clear coat are you all recommending? 

I have a bunch of stuff from caswell plating coming tomorrow.  Instead of polishing/clearcoating, I am going to polish and cobalt plate the alminum covers. Howver, if the cobalt plating thing turns out nighmarish, i'll try the clearcoat route.  If we're talking standard urethane clearcoat, then that's too easy, but i was thinking about the heat factor, and its effect on urethane clears.

[Flying J]

and where do you buy aircraft stripper?

[andy750]

and where do you buy aircraft stripper?

+1

[Johnie]

Try here...
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/pc-12815-610-kleen-strip-aircraft-remover-gar343.aspx

[mystic_1]

I've found Aircraft Stripper (I use Tal-Strip brand) at Walmart, also Autozone, Home Depot, and maybe Lowes.

Re: clear coat, many clearcoats won't adhere well to polished surfaces.  Caswell recommends VHT clear for polished parts, it's heat-curable.  Search the Caswell forums for tips.


mystic_1

[Brantley]

What noone has mentioned is the byproduct of using a polishing wheel is heat. Working on a piece of cold aluminum heats yr media just enough to melt it. It cools quickly and leaves that black sticky crap on yr work. Leave yr work out in the sun for an hour before polishing. You guys that can't ride all year and are locked in a snowy mad scientist laboratory/garage/basement all winter can use a heat gun. Or hair dryer if it isn't salon day. I've got much better results after a little heat than before.

[jimscamera]

Buff with white rouge if you want.  Then follow with 3M mag and aluminum polish Part No. 051131 (39529) available at a good professional car body and paint store. Then follow with Eagle one Never Dull Wadding polish. Eagle One Industries
Box 4246, Carlsbad Calif 92018. Works for me to do a pretty good mirror finish.

[Hinz]

Dang Johnie that looks great!  I have been using just Aircraft Stripper (Make sure to wear some thick gloves, it really burns on contact!!!) Red rouge, then Green Rouge, then the white..

shouldn't you be going green, white then red?

[Johnie]

Dang Johnie that looks great!  I have been using just Aircraft Stripper (Make sure to wear some thick gloves, it really burns on contact!!!) Red rouge, then Green Rouge, then the white..

shouldn't you be going green, white then red?

Hi Hinz...you first want to start with the red which is the coarsest rouge, then green is the light duty and then I finished with the white which is the fine.  I did buy a blue listed as high luster, but as you saw by the pics I did not think it was necessary.

[Really?]

If you make it to 2000 grit, mothers will bring it right up after that without much work (even an old sock and your hand will do it).  Make sure you see no scratches if you can help it, it makes it dull and the reflection angles get all messed up.

If you do 220 grit on it, it will leave some deep scratches that take forever to get out.  It is like they never go away.

[Johnie]

I consider myself pretty lucky as my covers had no deep scratches.  I never touched them with any sandpaper.  Just the Craftsman buffer and rouge.

[Hinz]

Dang Johnie that looks great!  I have been using just Aircraft Stripper (Make sure to wear some thick gloves, it really burns on contact!!!) Red rouge, then Green Rouge, then the white..

shouldn't you be going green, white then red?

Hi Hinz...you first want to start with the red which is the coarsest rouge, then green is the light duty and then I finished with the white which is the fine.  I did buy a blue listed as high luster, but as you saw by the pics I did not think it was necessary.

hahaha..maybe THAT'S why all my polishing attempts have come out like garbage....Thanks!

[Really?]

I have noticed different parts come out with different results as if the aluminum is different all over.

Engine covers - no big deal, fairly easy
Fork lowers - a pain in the backside
Fork lowers caps - way too easy, almost no work at all.
Upper triple - lots of work but can shine up quick
Hubs and stuff around it - tough.  I can get these shiney but with a blur.

Now, I am referring to mirror shine, not just kinda shiney with a blur.  Lots of casting marks on this stuff.  This may not be everyone's experience, this has been mine.

[Johnie]

Dang Johnie that looks great!  I have been using just Aircraft Stripper (Make sure to wear some thick gloves, it really burns on contact!!!) Red rouge, then Green Rouge, then the white..

shouldn't you be going green, white then red?

Hi Hinz...you first want to start with the red which is the coarsest rouge, then green is the light duty and then I finished with the white which is the fine.  I did buy a blue listed as high luster, but as you saw by the pics I did not think it was necessary.

hahaha..maybe THAT'S why all my polishing attempts have come out like garbage....Thanks!

Hahahaha...Hinz, you're killing me!!! 

[Joel]

I have noticed different parts come out with different results as if the aluminum is different all over.

Engine covers - no big deal, fairly easy
Fork lowers - a pain in the backside
Fork lowers caps - way too easy, almost no work at all.
Upper triple - lots of work but can shine up quick
Hubs and stuff around it - tough.  I can get these shiney but with a blur.

Now, I am referring to mirror shine, not just kinda shiney with a blur.  Lots of casting marks on this stuff.  This may not be everyone's experience, this has been mine.

I've been trying to wetsand my fork lowers back to an OEM looking finish.  I found that with 400 grit the direction resulted in different shine.  Using the paper along the axis from top to bottom left a grainy or scratchy looking finish.  Turning 90 degrees and going around the tubes left a much nicer and shinier finish.  Is this true on any of the other aluminum bits?

I also saw someone mention that 220 leaves scratches that are difficult to get out.  There is some pitting that looks to be from the casting and small scratches from normal wear on mine that are taking a long time to remove with 400.  Any recommendations on what grit to use?