Author Topic: Squirley's 550 CAFE Build (Read 160899 times)

rickmoore24 · « **Reply #300 on:** April 03, 2010, 09:23:36 AM »

That is so sweet!

Staggerlee · « **Reply #301 on:** April 03, 2010, 10:00:57 AM »

Nice work Jens!

eosmontana · « **Reply #302 on:** April 03, 2010, 08:49:14 PM »

Are those rear shock risers fabbed or did you buy them somewhere..... cool idea to get some extra height in the rear end.

verboten1 · « **Reply #303 on:** April 05, 2010, 11:41:15 AM »

I was cruising the SVriders forum and saw your bike posted in the cafe racer thread....

it's everywhere!!!

fastbroshi · « **Reply #304 on:** April 05, 2010, 08:34:36 PM »

Quote from: eosmontana on April 03, 2010, 08:49:14 PM

Are those rear shock risers fabbed or did you buy them somewhere..... cool idea to get some extra height in the rear end.

I don't see any risers on there, those 1100f shocks already come with a clevis fitting at the bottom.

Industrial Cafe · « **Reply #305 on:** April 05, 2010, 08:43:08 PM »

Quote from: fastbroshi on April 05, 2010, 08:34:36 PM

Quote from: eosmontana on April 03, 2010, 08:49:14 PM
Are those rear shock risers fabbed or did you buy them somewhere..... cool idea to get some extra height in the rear end.

I don't see any risers on there, those 1100f shocks already come with a clevis fitting at the bottom.

if you eyeball it real close, the shocks are switched left to right, which makes you have to twist them 90 degrees or the reservoir will hit the tire.
the risers are added between the clevis and the swing arm.

fastbroshi · « **Reply #306 on:** April 05, 2010, 08:48:24 PM »

I'm guessing he did that to make room for that line or rod, not sure which it is.

squirley · « **Reply #307 on:** April 05, 2010, 10:39:39 PM »

Hey guys, sorry im not on here much to chime in...
The rear shocks do have risers, they are about a 1inch aluminum riser. I made my own, but you can get them from any pit bike store. I don't have them on there because I like them, they were only put on to get the correct ride height that I was looking for. Hopefully soon I will get around to ordering a pair of shock in this length so i don't need spacers.

Jens

outerringz · « **Reply #308 on:** May 26, 2010, 08:43:05 AM »

Squirley,

Great build! Can you tell me how many inches it is from the frame join under the tank to the custom join you made at the upper shock mount?

Thanks

redbullssg · « **Reply #309 on:** July 01, 2010, 12:12:43 PM »

Back to wheels and hubs. Is there any reason that you didn't use the stock hub up front? Is it because of the width and Disc placement? Just trying to sort out all of my options.....

Industrial Cafe · « **Reply #310 on:** July 01, 2010, 12:25:58 PM »

axle size is way too small
hub width is too narrow
bolt pattern for the rotors (6 instead of 5)

unless you like doing a lot of precision machining, you'll want to use a late model narrow-glide Harley wheel.
more info can be found here

Flying J · « **Reply #311 on:** July 01, 2010, 12:31:59 PM »

Where are the pic where you welded in the gas cap?

redbullssg · « **Reply #312 on:** July 03, 2010, 07:10:08 AM »

I am really having a hard time finding 40 spoke rims. I prefer aluminum, but hell, I can't seem to find either in the width and sizes that I want for the price range (CHEAP AS HELL) I want. I did find some stainless ones, but they are kinda narrow. 18" 2.15" Internally and 19" 1.85 Internally. I don't even know if you can powder coat Stainless...?

traveler · « **Reply #313 on:** July 03, 2010, 07:33:32 AM »

yes you can powder stainless.

look for harley rims.

~Joe

zaskar · « **Reply #314 on:** July 03, 2010, 08:31:25 PM »

Hi squirley. About halfway through this thread you had a bit of a crossroads with the overall appearance. There was debate overall length , fork height , etc. But I don't think you ended up mentioning what changes you ended up making. Did you make any adjustments, ? Did I miss anything? Are you still around? Thanks for the time you took to make this thread. It's been a great journey to share.

redbullssg · « **Reply #315 on:** July 07, 2010, 06:50:49 AM »

HEY! I called ALL BALL BEARINGs and they were very cool! The fella pointed me directly to their site to where they have a NEW section specifically for FORK CONVERSIONS!!!!

http://www.allballsracing.com/index.php/forkconvertion

They have already put together Shat tons of bearings for the CB550 and just about any fork you can think of. The cool thing that I found there was that just about all GSXR front ends use the same bearing for the CB550 fork head. THat includes Hayabusa, but just because they list the bearing, doesn't mean that the tube length will work with the application.

I am going to post this in its own thread for convenience of finding. I just wanted you all the be aware of this.

The part numbers are 99-3541 (30 48.5 15) for the top and 99-3512-5 (30 50 14.25) for the bottom.

Industrial Cafe · « **Reply #316 on:** July 07, 2010, 07:16:26 AM »

that's cool,

it's funny that the link is misspelled.

redbullssg · « **Reply #317 on:** July 07, 2010, 07:25:40 AM »

Ya, I know, LOL. I posted this in the TIPs forum also, and quoted a Warning from their site, and it also had a typo, LOL.... I corrected it on the forum, so I guess it would no longer be a quote?!

redbullssg · « **Reply #318 on:** July 12, 2010, 03:43:26 PM »

Does anybody know how thick, top to bottom the stock top bearing is? The race seat in the head is approx. .330" deep on mine. The new bearing I received is approx. .625" thick. I am thinking that it is the wrong one. The inside and outside Diameter is correct though.... The new one is a tapered roller bearing....

Industrial Cafe · « **Reply #319 on:** July 12, 2010, 03:56:05 PM »

dont know-
but!
what are your part numbers?
on the bearings themselves.

redbullssg · « **Reply #320 on:** July 12, 2010, 05:16:26 PM »

You see the ALL BALLS link I gave above. Well it was ordered from what they suggested. It is basically a custom tapered roller bearing as it is the outer race of one bearing and inner race of another with the common bearing cage angle. I will inform them that it isn't right.... I just hope that they don't give me a hard time, and that they have something that will work....

The outer race part number that is etched into it is KML 26-485H and the inner and cage assemble is or looks like 30y-48k5. I am thinking I would have been better off buying a stock lower ball bearing or a XS650 bearing with the .005" shim around it. I wanted a tapered roller bearing though. This one I think would work, but sealing it would be the problem... I don't know how I would keep the dust out....

The other option would be to cut the race seat off of the steering head and machining the lip you can see in this pic, all the way out like to bottom seat is, then weld it back in. Then it would be the right depth. At first it appeared that the lip was a separate piece and tried to get it out, but looking closer it is all one piece, machined....

Industrial Cafe · « **Reply #321 on:** July 12, 2010, 05:39:30 PM »

mmph... You're gonna need some more heads on this-
you should start your own thread so you could get some more exposure.

redbullssg · « **Reply #322 on:** July 12, 2010, 06:02:32 PM »

Ya, I was thinking about that, but I didn't want to start a separate GSXR fork swap thread. But maybe it would be a good idea, since there isn't one devoted to that mod only....

I was just trying to come up with a better solution than using a bearing that you had to shim. I am going to call ALL BALLS in the morning to see if they just messed up and or if there is a better solution, giving them the correct bearing depth. Maybe it is just something that they didn't take into consideration and thought it was the same as the bottom one. If there isn't a way to do a tapered roller bearing in the stock head, then I may cut the seat off and weld in a new one. I really want a tapered....

Industrial Cafe · « **Reply #323 on:** July 12, 2010, 06:22:19 PM »

this guy did it on a 750-
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=63784.0

redbullssg · « **Reply #324 on:** July 12, 2010, 06:33:33 PM »

Ya, I saw yours to, but on a 750 that you pressed the tube out of to flair the end and press into the GSXR triple. Useful, but not quite the same instance as the 550.

Gotta go to work, YA!

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Author Topic: Squirley's 550 CAFE Build (Read 160899 times)

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