Topic: Total Rebuild Thread

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

With all that meticulous work, I'm assuming that you're going to send all the bolts, etc out for replating or replacement? 

[bunghole]

With all that meticulous work, I'm assuming that you're going to send all the bolts, etc out for replating or replacement? 

Well I bought a set of stainless allen bolts, but I haven't inventoried which ones aren't covered by the set.  I also bought a zinc plating kit from Eastwood, so for the few odd bits, I can re-plate them.  What I really need is a set of mounting bolts.  I've got bids in on Ebay for some used ones that I will re-plate.  I'm missing the bottom bolt...PO used threaded rod.

I tried buying a new set from honda-partsdirect, but they are discontinued.  Anyone have a source?

[bunghole]

Oh!  And thanks for the compliments!!!

[chrislib]

http://www.mcmaster.com/  try here for hardware, they have just about any size/thread pitch/length imaginable.

[bunghole]

http://www.mcmaster.com/  try here for hardware, they have just about any size/thread pitch/length imaginable.

Thanks!

What grade would be best for the engine mounting bolts?  For other fasteners on the bike, what grade would you use?

[bunghole]

More Paint:

[bunghole]

With all that meticulous work, I'm assuming that you're going to send all the bolts, etc out for replating or replacement? 

I was wondering if it is necessary or recommended to plate the 4 small studs that connect the head to the cylinders.  I can't remember if they are inside the engine (bathed in oil), or not.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

4 small studs?? Head to cylinders?? Cam towers to head maybe??

It's looking really nice. Now that voting has opened again  I vote to polish the fin edges on the head to make it pop.

[bunghole]

4 small studs?? Head to cylinders?? Cam towers to head maybe??

It's looking really nice. Now that voting has opened again  I vote to polish the fin edges on the head to make it pop.

You're right.  Cam tower studs.  It so happens that they also thread into the cylinders.  I installed them to hold my head in place for the photos.  So should I zinc them?

Thanks for the compliments.  I would love to polish the edges, but I had to do a little bit of ghetto fin repair with JB Weld.  It might not be enough to even notice, but I would hate to polish it and have it look like poo.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

No need to plate them but take a close look and determine if heli coils would be a good idea or not.

[bunghole]

No need to plate them but take a close look and determine if heli coils would be a good idea or not.

How do you tell without stripping them?  Is just a matter of how loose they feel?

Also, here is a maybe dumb question.  I'm going to be using either anti-seize or threadlock on all fasteners (unless anyone has any exceptions to that rule).  I assume threadlock also has anti-seize properties.  Is that correct?

[strangedaze39]

Looking great, very professional and clean work. I would like to mention I bought a allen bolt set for my CB350 from stainlesscycle and it is SOOOOOO much better then the stock phillips head screws used everywhere, make sure to use anti-seize on all bolts when re-assembling.

Good luck with the build, looking forward to seeing more.
-SD

[bunghole]

Looking great, very professional and clean work. I would like to mention I bought a allen bolt set for my CB350 from stainlesscycle and it is SOOOOOO much better then the stock phillips head screws used everywhere, make sure to use anti-seize on all bolts when re-assembling.

Good luck with the build, looking forward to seeing more.
-SD

I was planning on using blue loctite almost everywhere.  The only place I would use anti-seize would be the plugs and maybe the cylinder studs, although I read somewhere on here to just soak the threads in oil before torquing them.

[martino1972]

if they are phillips head,i wont use loctite on those,you might end up having trouble getting them back out..
all other shaped bolts you could use a medium strenght loctite if you want..on head bolts/studs you dont have to use it,for a correct torque reading they have to be oiled..
dont use permanent strenght loctite on a engine component,cause it will be permanet,plus that dryed up permanent loctite is really hard,if lets say abit of it comes loose,from a bit around a bolt orso,you dont want that to come between your piston and cylinder or in the oil pump..

[bunghole]

I've been trying to find a cam for my bike and it seems that most of sources are waiting on more stock.  I asked about it in another thread and Scondon suggested contacting Buzz at Dynoman.

Buzz is a font of knowledge on these bikes.  Turns out he has some RC engineering cams in stock.  I think I'll be going with those.  He did scare me a bit when I told him that I was using a different head than the one that came on my bike.  He was worried that I might have an F head that used larger valves than the K, but I measured them and both seats were the same size.  Also, here are some pics of the "old" valves in both the "old" head and "new" head:





I did notice some pitting on the top of the valve stem where it contacts the rocker.  I'm guessing that means new valves are in order.

[.RJ]

Also, here is a maybe dumb question.  I'm going to be using either anti-seize or threadlock on all fasteners (unless anyone has any exceptions to that rule).  I assume threadlock also has anti-seize properties.  Is that correct?

When thread locker gets hot (~300 deg) it turns into grease, and the bolts will back out.  It will also change the specified torque values of the fastener.

I would avoid using it unless necessary - I do use it on things like brake rotor bolts and caliper mounting bolts, but definitely not engine fasteners.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Nice looking pair of F0/F1 heads. As far as the valves go you might get by with valve lash caps. I am not that familiar with them but Mike MRieck is our head master. Check in with him. If he tries to talk you into porting and larger valves go for it!! What the hell, it's only money and HP.

Which RC cams does Buzz have? 

[martino1972]

pitted valve stems dont mean new valves,depending on how bad,but any machine shop can mill off a few thousands of an inch,and they will be all pretty again..
looking at the pic from the old head it seems like it was running pretty lean(sparkplug tip is white)

[bunghole]

Which RC cams does Buzz have? 

295s for $225.

[bunghole]

pitted valve stems dont mean new valves,depending on how bad,but any machine shop can mill off a few thousands of an inch,and they will be all pretty again..
looking at the pic from the old head it seems like it was running pretty lean(sparkplug tip is white)

I thought there was a hardened outer layer that held up to wear better and once it was compromised, you can have problems.

[martino1972]

lots of times,when i did a valve job on a cylinder head,where i had to grind of abit of the valves,to get the right angle back,i also grind abit(very little)of the stem to compensate for the valve sitting in the head deeper..never had any problems,and some of those engines got alot of miles on them now..

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Which RC cams does Buzz have? 

295s for $225.

Do you have specs on that cam?

[bunghole]

I don't, but you can e-mail Buzz at info@dynoman.net.

[scartail]

This is a beautiful build, Bung. Keep it up!

[martino1972]

you should post a picture of yourself here,i keep picturing you looking like your aviator.....