Topic: Where can I find an affordable 530x102 or 104 O-Ring chain?

[Really?]

Where can I find an affordable 530x102 or 104 O-Ring chain?  Lotta high prices out there.

I have checked a bunch of places already -Z1, BikeBandit, cyclex, crc 2, ebay and a bunch of other places.

I currently have a noisy and dirty 530x100 and want the rim to move just a tad further back (currently a 18/48T).  Do not want the 130 tire to rub the brake arm and it looked a little to afar forward in the adjuster.

[HavocTurbo]

What are your average prices??

I might be able to work something out.

[GammaFlat]

One thing worth thinking about is changing the front to a 17.  I did this with my K6 and the difference is pretty significant.  This was a HondaMan recommendation (after I mentioned I did a lot of city driving) and I was reticent but had a hard time going against his advice. 

Even if I did a lot of highway driving, I'd consider this change.  These engines love to spin and HMan's experience is that better mpg's can often be achieved at higher RPM's on the highway.  I know - this is all controversial... I'm not trying to start a "popcorn thread" but I'm super happy with my 17 front and I'm changing out my K7 15-41 to a 15-43 (similar upgrade numbers wise). 

The starts from a dead stop are probably where it's most obvious - It's less likely you'll kill the engine at a light - not than any of us have ever done that. 

[Really?]

Havoc, I have been seeing $80+, more in the + range.  I was hoping to find something more in the $60 range and still have about a 9600 tensile strength.  Am I dreaming here?  Do not care about the colors or chrome (the chrome would be nice though, lol).

Gamma, I have considered a 17 front and keeping a 48 in the back.  I had decided to stick with the 18 in the meantime.  The wife prolly does need the extra kick just yet.  So, my thinking was, when she gets used to the bike and might want a little extra kick, then I still have an option without doing anything major.  If the bike were mine, the 17 would be the choice.

[cafe750]

Giga,
You aren't going to find an o-ring chain in the $60 dollar region, as thats way below even dealer cost....If you can find one for 80, then I'd go for it....

[TheHun]

Higher RPMS can mean higher MPG..take my mustang for example...when I had the stock gearing in the car I was getting 17-18mpg... 3.27 gears....after I put in my 4.10 gears I was getting 22-24mpg...sorry for going off subject here..but just wanted to back hondaman's theory

[Soos]

Havoc, I have been seeing $80+, more in the + range.  I was hoping to find something more in the $60 range and still have about a 9600 tensile strength.  Am I dreaming here?  Do not care about the colors or chrome (the chrome would be nice though, lol).

Gamma, I have considered a 17 front and keeping a 48 in the back.  I had decided to stick with the 18 in the meantime.  The wife prolly does need the extra kick just yet.  So, my thinking was, when she gets used to the bike and might want a little extra kick, then I still have an option without doing anything major.  If the bike were mine, the 17 would be the choice.

I think unless you find someone with one thats gathering dust and they don't need it, or get one awesome deal on a auction on E-bay... you're gonna be REALLY hard pressed to find a O-ring chain with that tensile strength for $60.00


Good luck, If you find a vendor for that price range, let us know!!



l8r

[eldar]

You will probably only find that price on a good sale BUT you can get a good oring for under 80. I just saw one on mawonline.com It was an RK brand and rk has done well for me.

[Gordon]

Montec.com has o-ring chains for under $80, but not 9600 tensile strength.  Why the need for such a strong chain?

[eldar]

Stronger chain, less stretch. Can be argued that it is not needed but it sure does not hurt. Most 530 oring chains are about that strong though.

[Gordon]

Stronger chain, less stretch. Can be argued that it is not needed but it sure does not hurt.

It hurts the wallet!

If the price is a major concern, I'd go for the lower tensile strength chain.  I don't think a higher strength chain that costs almost twice as much will last almost twice as long, but I could be wrong.   

[eldar]

I think the main draw is less maintenance on the chain. A roller can last a long time but requires a good amount of time cleaning and lubing. While an o-ring does need cleaning and lube, it needs much less time. They are also known to last longer. Is it worth the price, that depends on the person. For me, yes, but then I have 2 young kids and 2 jobs and not much time for bike work. If you have more time, than maybe not.

[Gordon]

I think the main draw is less maintenance on the chain. A roller can last a long time but requires a good amount of time cleaning and lubing. While an o-ring does need cleaning and lube, it needs much less time. They are also known to last longer. Is it worth the price, that depends on the person. For me, yes, but then I have 2 young kids and 2 jobs and not much time for bike work. If you have more time, than maybe not.

Ick!  don't get everyone started on that!

I'm not saying standard chain vs. o-ring, I'm saying lower tensile strength o-ring vs. higher tensile strength o-ring chain. 

[eldar]

I suppose that just comes down to higher tensile being more resistant to stretching. Possibly lighter weight but that is just a guess someone had here few months ago. Being low hp bikes, I suppose it is not an issue but then our bikes weigh as much as most any other bikes and maybe it is better.

I think the problem is that no one can do a real world test as it is impossible to control the conditions to accurately test both chains.

[754]

Give her the low gears..

 makes it easier to ride the bike anyway..

[Really?]

Well, I guess I was dreaming when I thought I could find one for about $60.  These things cost way to much in my mind.

The reason I mentioned the 9600 is that I thought that was what I was supposed to get and the charts seem to refer to that tensile strength.

Less Maintenance is nice and less oil getting flung around everything and stuck all over the chain.  I just finished cleaning all that flung oil all under the back end this weekend, what a chore that was.

Back rim is laced and trued and polished and going to get the 130 mounted tomorrow or the next morning. Me don't want ugly up all that work either.

[754]

FWIW.. manually oiling a regular chain does not have to require wheel cleaning until a thousand miles (or more), if you do it right..

[HavocTurbo]

Give me some time... I'm workin on a price for you.

[eldar]

manually oiling a regular chain does not have to require wheel cleaning until a thousand miles (or more), if you do it right.

A lot of this depends on what the person uses for lube and how. Some use a scottoiler and while the unit works great, it is a drip and does tend to make a mess. Some brush motor oil on their chains and wipe off excess but since motor oil has lousy sticking action, it tends to fling off easy.

[HavocTurbo]

OK -

EX SRO-Z Series 530 O-Ring Chain x 104 links

9100lbs Tensile Strength / BLACK in color.

$80 shipped to the lower 48 states.

Best I can do.

[Really?]

I would like one Havoc.  Let me know what I need to do.

[Really?]

PM sent Havoc.

[kayaker43]

I've been using the Parts unlimited "house brand" X -ring chains. They are made by some big manufacturer (RK I think) and have really good tensile specs and X-rings but are way cheap.

I even have one on my 550 with no clearance issues like everyone says. Seems to me I paid around $65.00 ??

[Really?]

As I was scouring the posts here about chains, I saw parts unlimited referenced a few times but never found their site when looking.  I am working with Havoc now and always like to help out a fellow member.  He has done what he did and i never asked him, which I think is really kewl.  Might be time for a Good Guys thread in the Good Guys forum.

[HavocTurbo]

Thanks man. I appreciate that.