Topic: Lets do a 550 top end rebuild check list!

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

I'm about to refresh the top end due to a dead cylinder. This will be my first metric motor (or motorcycle motor for that matter) and I was thinking it might be helpful for other guys or gals with decent mechanical abilities to have a check list for this job. It seems (from reading) like a top end rebuild is often more than enough to get these motors going strong again and splitting the cases is rarely needed.

I'll try to post part numbers for what I know we'll need, and the experts can chime in with missing do-dads and helpful tips.

Starting with a gasket kit seems to be the way to go. All these rubber parts need replacing during a tear down and gathering the parts would be difficult. I chose a Vesrah kit. I've read the Athena kits are of somewhat lesser quality, but can't say from experience. I got my kit from TAS, they had the best price on the web and I looked for a couple days. It's available here for 62$

http://www.tasclassicmotorsports.com/servlet/the-576/Complete-Gasket-Kit/Detail

It looks like this:



It includes the following: *I added the OEM part number for each part

Breather Cover Gasket (12329-323-000)
Cylinder Head Cover Gasket (12391-323-000)
12- 30.8 O-Rings (91302-001-000)
3- 11 x 2.5 O-Rings (91393-035-000)
4- 6 x 3 O-Rings (91319-323-000)
8- 10 x 1.6 O-Rings (91301-200-000)
2- 5 x 2.4 O-Rings (91301-323-000)
4- 61.8 x 2 O-Rings (91304-286-000)
Cylinder Head Gasket (12251-374-005)
Cylinder Base Gasket (12191-374-000)
4- Exhaust Gaskets (18291-390-000)
8- Valve Stem Seals (12209-333-005)
O-Ring 5.8 x 1.9 (91305-323-000)
Oil Pump Gasket (11398-323-000)
Points Cover Gasket (30372-300-300)
Crankcase Cover Gasket (11394-390-000)
Dyno Cover Gasket (11691-323-000)
Starter Motor Cover Gasket (31282-323-300)

Correct for the:

1974-78 CB550
1975 CB550 K1
1975-77 CB550 F
1978-80 CB550 F1-F3
1977-79 CB550 K3

This is their 'complete kit' which includes the lower end gaskets. Vesrah makes a top only kit without the last 5 gaskets, the part number is VG-555 for the top only kit. But I'd just get the complete kit.

Neither of these kits contain the 6 cam tower pucks you will need during the rebuild. The part number for the pucks is: (91318-300-013). They're available at most all the online retailers or probably at your local Honda guy for around 3$ each. They look like this:



You may or may not require rings. Rings are expensive and if you have good compression after a wet test then I believe you can reuse your rings. Hopefully an expert can comment here. I would suggest that you wait until you have the cylinder off before ordering these expensive parts. The part number for STANDARD sized rings is: (13011-374-000). These are expensive from the dealer, and Servicehonda.com has a great deal at 26.88 per set here:

http://www.servicehonda.com/parts.php?partnumber=13011-374-000&getpart=1&getprice=Submit

So lets get the guys with hands on experience in on the discussion. I'll be posting 'doing it' pictures as I rebuild mine over the next few weeks.

[heffay]

I don't care how well-versed you are in engine building... Manuelle is your friend!

I like to pull the top end first... then clean up the top of the combustion chamber w/ a dremel and wire wheel bit. 

the gasket kit is basically all you'll need... aside from common metric tools... an air compressor/tools are VERY helpful.

make sure your gasket surfaces are as clean and un-scarred as possible.

after the top end rebuild... go in after 100-500 miles and retorque... i don't think re-torque means to undue every bolt and re torque to spec... i think it means check your torque against spec and tighten if needed (you supposedly torqued correctly in the first place). 

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

Good point, I strongly recommend having the manual. It's available here:

http://www.sohc4.net/files/HSMCB500550.pdf

I took this file on my flash drive up to Kinko's and they printed & spiral bound it for about 12$.

[crinklesmith]

All right! I have a jammed cam chain tensioner in my 76' 550, its quiet for now, but I'll be needing this thread in the future. I used a master Vesrah kit for a Kawasaki KE100 rebuild, and they seemed to hold up pretty good, has 2500 miles with no crankcase leaks, and it gets thrashed regularly. Let's see some pics of that darn cam chain tensioner apparatus while your in there.

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

Alright kiddies, I'm in it now. Carbs off.

Quick question before the top end comes off, is there any kind of preperation that needs to be done to facilitate timing the bike after the rebuild? Any marks need to be made to make sure it all lines back up?

[OldSchool_IsCool]

Mark your cam sprocket so you know which side faces which cylinders.  When I did mine, I simply bagged and tagged parts like shims, dowels, nuts, bolts etc as to which "layer of the sandwich" they came from and which side or cylinder they were near. 

To take your head off, back out the tappet adjusters.  Way back, but not out.  When you get ready to put the head back on, you will want to tie the rockers back with rubber bands.  Looping a band from an intake tappet to it's exhaust tappet does the trick.  Jonesy has a GREAT picture of the setup here somewhere.

FYI, search for a thread called "OK, Now What" for some GREAT advice I was given as I began my top end rebuild.

EDIT:

Here's the link... http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=44637.0

[Sporkfly]

Speaking from experience... Please don't use Athena gaskets. Second time I've put this engine together and it's still spitting oil with freshly machined heads.

Edit: Also, my Athena kit did have the cam tower pucks. The exhaust gaskets were pretty odd, rectangular things unlike any I'd ever seen. The end result of using those exhaust gaskets? One stud pulled out of my head and I had to go buy a helicoil kit and another stud had the threads ripped off by the nut. Could have been old studs, sure, but not only did I get a couple screwed up studs they didn't seem to compress much and the hangers for my exhaust were *far* more difficult to attach than they had ever been.

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

Dude, that's an excellent post, just went through it. I've seen that picture now that you mention it, very clever. Thanks!

Mark your cam sprocket so you know which side faces which cylinders.  When I did mine, I simply bagged and tagged parts like shims, dowels, nuts, bolts etc as to which "layer of the sandwich" they came from and which side or cylinder they were near. 

To take your head off, back out the tappet adjusters.  Way back, but not out.  When you get ready to put the head back on, you will want to tie the rockers back with rubber bands.  Looping a band from an intake tappet to it's exhaust tappet does the trick.  Jonesy has a GREAT picture of the setup here somewhere.

FYI, search for a thread called "OK, Now What" for some GREAT advice I was given as I began my top end rebuild.

EDIT:

Here's the link... http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=44637.0

...and it looks like a +1 on the Athena kits. I've officially heard nothing positive about them.

[Sporkfly]

...and it looks like a +1 on the Athena kits. I've officially heard nothing positive about them.

Wish somebody had told me that a week ago 

Some more bad things about the Athena kit while I'm at it? Sure! The head gasket looked as if it was peeling apart, the base gasket was a totally different shape from OE and seemed thinner, I was shorted an O-ring for the oil galleries... The bonus was it included the cam pucks and the point cover gasket is much better than the previous one I had (super thin cork). Those are small though when you take into account the head and base gaskets though.

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

Any tips for the head cover screws? Every single one is retardedly tight. Like, torque wrench 60 or 70 lbs tight. I can't even believe someone was able to tighten them this much. And why in the hell would Honda use screws to secure the cover? Asking for trouble there, I'll be replacing them with allen bolts or at least 6 pointers.

[MRieck]

Any tips for the head cover screws? Every single one is retardedly tight. Like, torque wrench 60 or 70 lbs tight. I can't even believe someone was able to tighten them this much. And why in the hell would Honda use screws to secure the cover? Asking for trouble there, I'll be replacing them with allen bolts or at least 6 pointers.

A hand impact driver.

[OldSchool_IsCool]

+1 on the impact driver.  Almost as valuable as a dental pic!

Hmmm, might need to add a Specialty Tools section to this check list.

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

Well the impact drive did it. Thanks.

So I'm having trouble getting the cam out. I followed the book, bolts out and the sprocket slid off to the shoulder. There is some slack, but not enough to walk the chain off. When adjusting the tensioner I turned it clockwise as described, but it never fully stops. It will turn about 90 degrees, then get a little tight and make a 'click' sound and become loose again.

I guess the tensioner may be broken, but if that was the case I'd think the chain would be loosey goosey. Any ideas?

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

Looking down in there it's letting slack off as the bolt tightens, but then the bolt slips and it retensions. So I guess it's sort of broke? It works a little, then slips and gets tight again. Is there some kind of gear on the end of that bolt that may be worn?

How do I remove all this if I can get enough slack from the broken tensioner?

[OldSchool_IsCool]

The tensioner bolt is actually a pinion gear that engages into the teeth of a rack on the tensioner.  By turning the bolt, you retract the spring loaded bow that makes contact with the chain.  Sounds like the pinion is slipping out of the rack which allows the spring to push the bow out.

Bottom line, I think your speculation that the tensioner is hosed is correct.

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

The tensioner bolt is actually a pinion gear that engages into the teeth of a rack on the tensioner.  By turning the bolt, you retract the spring loaded bow that makes contact with the chain.  Sounds like the pinion is slipping out of the rack which allows the spring to push the bow out.

Bottom line, I think your speculation that the tensioner is hosed is correct.

Yeah, that's gotta be it. I thought it felt like a gear slipping. So what are my options?

[OldSchool_IsCool]

Replace with new.  I just bought a complete tensioner assembly for a little over $100 US from Service Honda.  Prolly a good idea to change the chain too.  Are you planning to crack into the crank case?

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

Replace with new.  I just bought a complete tensioner assembly for a little over $100 US from Service Honda.  Prolly a good idea to change the chain too.  Are you planning to crack into the crank case?

Definetly needs to be replaced, I meant how do I get it out? I can't get the chain off the sprocket because there isn't enough slack.

I'm doing this in the bike, no plans to split the cases.

* Got it! Ran a 10" bolt I found laying around down the face of the tensioner, then levereged it against the cam and relieved just enough tension to get it. Assuming I hadn't gotten this to work, what would be the procedure for removing all this with a broken tensioner?

[OldSchool_IsCool]

You could have broken the chain.  A drastic action I know, but if you decide to replace the chain without splitting the case, you would be breaking it anyway.

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

You could have broken the chain.  A drastic action I know, but if you decide to replace the chain without splitting the case, you would be breaking it anyway.

Glad to hear there's no drilling for that. I'm going to post up pics of the chain to see if it needs replacement later. Eventually I want to do the 750 pistons & 650 cam swap, so I won't replace anything that isn't in dire need. Breaking the chain doesn't bother me, it's the cost of the damn chain breaker. Not a tool you see often.

[OldSchool_IsCool]

I hear ya!  I ended up taking my engine to a local semi-retired mechanic who used a chisel and punch to break the old chain, thread the new one on then rivit the new one back together using a soft link from a 400T.  If it wasn't for the color difference of the soft link, you wouldn't be able to detect the surgery ever happened!

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

So I'm ready at least I think to put the bike back together. I've got what I think is a complete list of parts not included in the gasket set, I'll update the first post when I'm done.

I knew I had a broken tensioner adjuster, but have a look at this -





Anyone have a working tensioner w/ slipper?

And is the chain guide supposed to have a rubber face? If so it's toast too.

[OldSchool_IsCool]

No rubber on the chain guide.  That tensioner bow is definitely shot.  How is the tensioner frame?  Is the rack & pinion in good shape?  I have a brand new bow that I bought but never installed.  If your frame is in good shape, maybe that's all you need.  If so, I'll send you the part number and if you want it will cut you a deal.

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

Cool, then the guide is ok.

The frame is toast. The rack & pinion teeth don't engage, it almost spins freely. I had to run a loooonnng bolt down the face of the slipper and leverage against it to relieve enough tension to get the chain off the cam sprocket.

So I guess I need a whole new tensioner assembly. Super spendy new, so offers on a nice used unit are welcome.

[OldSchool_IsCool]

I got a new assembly from Service Honda for a little over $100.  Tru, not cheap, but the way I figured, a used or even rebuilt assembly might last ya 5-10 years.  Will a new assembly be available then?  I'm hope'n to get another 30 years outa this one.

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

I'm with you, I've been fighting myself not to take it to a bare frame and haul it all in for powdercoating. I just want to get it running reliably for this summer and do a full on over the top restore next winter. A decent used one should get me through till I split the cases and go crazy with the boring & polishing. Of course, money is an issue right now too.

So yeah, I'd be interested in a good used tensioner if anyone has that kind of stuff just laying around. 

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

Well damnit, I got a tensioner off eBay. I sent the guy 2 emails asking him to make sure it was in good shape and when it arrives the tensioner frame is ate up at one end from a broken chain, and the eye of the slipper is broken. The slipper just flops around.

Anyone have a decent used 500/550 slipper I can take off your hands cheap?

[OldSchool_IsCool]

email sent...

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

Thanks Bruce.

If anyone thinks they have a decent used one around I'll still be looking for the next couple days, so let me know how it looks and a price.

[Dave-and-his-550]

after the top end rebuild... go in after 100-500 miles and retorque... i don't think re-torque means to undue every bolt and re torque to spec... i think it means check your torque against spec and tighten if needed (you supposedly torqued correctly in the first place). 

What kind of torque wrench do you use? I've been wanting to buy a torque wrench but can't find one locally, and searching online brings up so many results I just don't know which one would be best for my bike.

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

Get a click-stop type. I got a Harbor Freight for 20$. Sears type is about 80$. I just used the HF and then returned it because I don't like actually owning any HF crap. 

[OldSchool_IsCool]

I use a "clicker"  The handle will give slightly and a single CLICK can be heard.  WARNING! you will get only ONE click.  There is nothing in the wrench which will prevent you from over torquing.  And the click is pretty easy to miss in the 5-7 ft-lb range.

[Jeremiah]

RE: Athena 550 gasket set

I've done about 5 rebuilds with these kits and they work great..   Also used their 750, 360 and 175 kits before.  The Vesrah is also great, but there's no need to dog on Athena. 

[dave500]

im with jeremiah,my 500s done 16000ks with athena set,ive had the head off to relieve the combustion chamber and reused the head gasket!! no problems.,i think they are also oem gaskets on a few european car makes.

[Loki]

this is great im going to have this help me with my top end rebuild.!

[Queeg]

I use a "clicker"  The handle will give slightly and a single CLICK can be heard.  WARNING! you will get only ONE click.  There is nothing in the wrench which will prevent you from over torquing.  And the click is pretty easy to miss in the 5-7 ft-lb range.

thats why i also own an inch pound torqwrench

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

Heads up, the price on these gasket kits have gone way up for some reason. I called TAS and they said mid-February the price will go back to 62$, so if you're in no big hurry for a gasket kit I'd wait a bit.

[patricke9]

Any updates on this project?  I am getting ready to replace a bad tensioner on my '77 Cb550k soon & looking for any tips/info on the subject.