There's no prescription for this, and to get the bike running exactly right takes more than just the two jets being changed. That said, you probably need a pilot jet one size smaller and a main jet one or two sizes larger.
If you plan on doing any other changes like a header/muffler or head work or a big-bore kit, you will need to retune the carbs... so it's best to do everything planned for the engine all at once and only go through carb tuning once.
The biggest advantage of pods is that they make removing and installing the carb stack easier... making it a bit easier to rejet to suit the pods... this is a circular argument - you don't need to tune the carbs if you leave the bike stock. If you have done more work (see list above) and have to do carb tuning anyway, the pods make more sense as working the carb stack off or on with the stock airbox is not at all fun.
Final tuning beyond the jet changes involves adjusting the needle height - this requires carb synchronizing afterwards - and some alteration of either the needle profile or the emulsion tube air holes to avoid the mid-throttle surging one always gets when the jets and needles are set as close as possible to ideal.
The carb is very carefully tuned to the stock bike and the needle profile and carb slide cutout are critical to getting the mixture right at all throttle and RPM combinations. We have no good way to change the cutout, the needle profile is finicky to change, and enlarging the emulsion tube holes is a tricky job.
So: it's possible, but a big hassle if you don't have an overpowering reason to remove the airbox and install pods. The tuning takes a lot of plug chops or a few hours of dyno time, and more carb remove/install cycles than is fun. At the end of the process you have more intake sound (noise?) and arguably poorer air filtration. I think any power increase exists only in the K&N marketing department's imagination.
