Author Topic: Chain recommendations please? (Read 3872 times)

Jim Shea · « **on:** November 19, 2005, 04:55:43 AM »

I need to replace the chain and sprocket on my 76 F1. I would prefer to replace it with a standard chain, unless an O ring fits without any messing about? I am told the standard chain is perfectly ok, but it is a good idea to rivet the link instead of using the removable one?
The DSS chain is 15 quid, front sprocket is 7quid and rear is 15 quid. Can anyone recommend a better quality chain and sprocket? I am in the Uk, so postage costs would be an issue!

mcpuffett · « **Reply #1 on:** November 19, 2005, 05:05:22 AM »

hello jim, that sounds pretty good for chain and sprocket kit

standard chain is more than adequate on these old girls,i usually pay about £20 quid for a chain 520h and 102 links for my 750 f1

mick.

Jim Shea · « **Reply #2 on:** November 19, 2005, 05:06:39 AM »

Mick,
Thanks, where do you get them from? and do you use the removable link?
Jim.

mcpuffett · « **Reply #3 on:** November 19, 2005, 05:08:19 AM »

hi jim, usually local bike shop or shows etc,and yes i usually use a split link, mick.

Jim Shea · « **Reply #4 on:** November 19, 2005, 05:11:59 AM »

Mick,
Ta. I think I am being a bit paranoid about the link thing! after all they were designed to work on these ikes?
Jim.

Jim Shea · « **Reply #5 on:** November 19, 2005, 07:40:21 AM »

I am looking for a chain that will last a couple of years maybe! I don't commute on the bike, so I do not do big miles!

MRieck · « **Reply #6 on:** November 19, 2005, 08:38:19 AM »

Quote from: Jim Shea on November 19, 2005, 05:11:59 AM

Mick,
Ta. I think I am being a bit paranoid about the link thing! after all they were designed to work on these ikes?
Jim.

After installing the clip clean it well and apply some silicone rubber or Yamabond to it. Don't over do it.

Dennis · « **Reply #7 on:** November 19, 2005, 08:52:45 AM »

Quote from: MRieck on November 19, 2005, 08:38:19 AM

Quote from: Jim Shea on November 19, 2005, 05:11:59 AM
Mick,
Ta. I think I am being a bit paranoid about the link thing! after all they were designed to work on these ikes?
Jim.
After installing the clip clean it well and apply some silicone rubber or Yamabond to it. Don't over do it.

INTERETING technique!
Thanks Mike, that's one I never heard of before, but it sure sounds useful.

mick750F · « **Reply #8 on:** November 19, 2005, 09:38:13 AM »

While we're on the subject of chain links...I just installed a rivet type link in my chain. The rivet flares about 1/100th of an inch. Is this enough? It doesn't seem like much. If I try to flare it any more I'll compress the link.

Mike

Sam Green Racing · « **Reply #9 on:** November 19, 2005, 04:20:10 PM »

Mick,

if you can't pull it or prise it off then the jobs done.
Mikes idea for chains with a split link sounds good or you can do as I do, lock wire it on.

Jimmy Shea,

See What brand drive chain do you use.....is it good started by Biffta (Dave)

mick750F · « **Reply #10 on:** November 19, 2005, 06:47:21 PM »

Thanks Sam. I've used clip links in the past so wasn't sure what to expect with a rivet type. I thought I had it but wasn't sure. Using the rivet type allowed me to buy an overpriced tool that I'll hardly ever use. A tool junkies mantra. When you "lock wire" it on are you wiring a clip type link taking advantage of the grooves in the link pins?

Mike

Sam Green Racing · « **Reply #11 on:** November 19, 2005, 07:15:05 PM »

Yes to that Mike, If you had lived in England you could have used my over priced tool that I will probably never use again. ;

oldbiker · « **Reply #12 on:** November 20, 2005, 01:19:07 AM »

Have faith you guys. In over 30 years of racing, I always used split links and NEVER had one come off.

Jim Shea · « **Reply #13 on:** November 20, 2005, 01:40:57 AM »

Thanks chaps,
Sounds like the split link is perfectly OK, I agree adding some Yamabond or lock wire as suggested must be worth it.

SteveD CB500F · « **Reply #14 on:** November 20, 2005, 02:47:42 AM »

Jim, I have a chain breaker if you need to shorten a new chain (or remove the old one)

I've used split links for the last 30 years with no problems. Just make sure you fit it the right way round!

Jim Shea · « **Reply #15 on:** November 20, 2005, 02:52:54 AM »

Steve,
Thanks. I was thinking of having someone fit the sprockets and chain for me?
You in or out today??
Jim.

Dennis · « **Reply #16 on:** November 20, 2005, 08:37:30 AM »

Quote from: Jim Shea on November 20, 2005, 02:52:54 AM

I was thinking of having someone fit the sprockets and chain for me?

You 'gotta' be kidding. Save your money to pay someone to do the difficult stuff.
You did comment that you need to do these things on a budger in another post didn't you?

This really isn't technically challanging, plus I'm sure that you will clean up the area better than someone you hire to do the job. It gets kind of messy by the front sprocket with old chain lube and whatever it picks up from the road.

Jim Shea · « **Reply #17 on:** November 20, 2005, 09:24:17 AM »

Dennis,
I would rather do the job myself. Is it really something that can be done easily by a rookie? this would be the firts time for me fitting a new chain.

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #18 on:** November 20, 2005, 09:44:29 AM »

Quote

Is it really something that can be done easily by a rookie?

I did, and I'm the rooky of all rookies.

And as Dennis points out, you get to clean some things up. The rear hub is hard to do while mounted, now you can have at it.

Dennis · « **Reply #19 on:** November 20, 2005, 10:46:50 AM »

Quote from: Jim Shea on November 20, 2005, 09:24:17 AM

Is it really something that can be done easily by a rookie?

Easier than most things the new guys try.
Remove chain guard and drive sprocket cover.
Simply grind off the ends of the pins of one link, and use a pin punch or nail to drive the link out of the chain. (Usually easier when the link you choose is at the rear sprocket.) Remove chain. Clean as desired. Loosen rear wheel, adjust forward and install chain using link as previously posted. Align and tighten rear wheel and replace guard and cover. Messy, but simple.

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #20 on:** November 20, 2005, 10:49:46 AM »

I thought he was planning to replace both sprockets as well

Jim Shea · « **Reply #21 on:** November 20, 2005, 10:57:59 AM »

I was planning to replace both, I am told that you need to do both sprockets and the chain at the same time?

Jim Shea · « **Reply #22 on:** November 20, 2005, 12:17:50 PM »

I assume the 'small' spocket is the difficult one to remove?

Dennis · « **Reply #23 on:** November 20, 2005, 02:24:29 PM »

Quote from: _biffta_ on November 20, 2005, 12:27:40 PM

Two bolts and a keeper ring on the 400 piece of piss job I should imagine the 750 is about the same sort of job..... Dave

750 is the same
just have to play with the sprocket cover a little bit to get it off, it's a little tight, bit it slips by

BTW I find it easier to "break" the bolts before I remove the chain, that way you have the option of using the rear brake to hold it for you

Buffo · « **Reply #24 on:** November 20, 2005, 03:13:32 PM »

I have a 750K8 and run a 630 chain...some like a 530...will you be doing the 530 convertion?

Dennis · « **Reply #25 on:** November 20, 2005, 06:21:24 PM »

Quote from: Buffo the Magnificent on November 20, 2005, 03:13:32 PM

I have a 750K8 and run a 630 chain...some like a 530...will you be doing the 530 convertion?

Don,
'75 - '76 CB750 F or F1 (whatever you want to call them) have 530 chain standard.
The 630 chain was later, I'm not sure when they made the change.

Jim Shea · « **Reply #26 on:** November 21, 2005, 01:44:15 AM »

Dennis,
Can you explain please?
"BTW I find it easier to "break" the bolts before I remove the chain, that way you have the option of using the rear brake to hold it for you"
Also, what is the difference between a 530 and a 630?
Jim.

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #27 on:** November 21, 2005, 03:26:26 AM »

I think he means when you put a wrench to the front sprocket bolts, the sprocket is going to want to turn on the shaft. If you have someone handy, they can step on the rear brake which will hold the rear wheel and thus make the chain taught and prevent the sprocket from wanting to turn. The 530 chain is narrower than the 630, by how much I don't know.

Jim Shea · « **Reply #28 on:** November 21, 2005, 04:10:48 AM »

Thanks. I will stick with 530 then no clearance problems that have been referred to here!

SteveD CB500F · « **Reply #29 on:** November 21, 2005, 04:33:48 AM »

Quote from: Jim Shea on November 21, 2005, 01:44:15 AM

Also, what is the difference between a 530 and a 630?

Jim, the 530 / 630 refer to the chain size in 1/8th inch increments.

Thus a 530 chain has a pitch of 5/8" and a width of 3/8"
A 630 chain has a pitch of 6/8" (ie 3/4") and a width of 3/8"

Good ol' imperial measures...

Jim Shea · « **Reply #30 on:** November 21, 2005, 05:07:50 AM »

Steve,
Thanks. I assume pitch is height of the chain then?

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #31 on:** November 21, 2005, 05:19:28 AM »

Jim,

You might find this info useful.

http://www.gizmology.net/sprockets.htm

SteveD CB500F · « **Reply #32 on:** November 21, 2005, 05:35:25 AM »

Quote from: Jim Shea on November 21, 2005, 05:07:50 AM

Thanks. I assume pitch is height of the chain then?

Nope.

Pitch is the distance between the links (or the distance between the "points" of the sprocket)

EDIT: Just read Bob's post, which just about sums it up. Think I'll put it in the FAQs.

Jim Shea · « **Reply #33 on:** November 21, 2005, 06:30:35 AM »

Thanks, it certainly does say it all.
Interesting comment below:
The smaller the pitch, the less noise, wear, and mechanical losses will be experienced.

SteveD CB500F · « **Reply #34 on:** November 21, 2005, 07:14:55 AM »

Yes but there is a trade off between "smallness" and the ability to transmit horsepower and last a reasonable time!

Einyodeler · « **Reply #35 on:** November 21, 2005, 05:25:13 PM »

Get a quality brand name chain such as: Tsubaki , D.I.D. , Regina or RK and keep it clean and lubed.
But note that some of these manufacturers such as RK also sell economy chains made in Malaysia , stay away.
I put over 20,000 miles on my `72 this year and I bought one of these Malaysian made chains from the local Honda dealer because it was the only one he had in stock at the time. It only lasted around 5,000 miles , it rusted imediately after a light mist and all of the pins were worn.
I now have a D.I.D. on it and in 15,000+ miles have only had to tighten a few times , hardly any stretch at all. Even after riding back from Chicago 6 hrs. in a steady downpour it didn`t develop any rust.

Bottom line: Maintenance and more maintenance

andy750 · « **Reply #36 on:** November 22, 2005, 06:36:12 AM »

I use Tsubaki Sigma O-ring chains on my CB750s (K4s) - 16,000 miles on the last one - and this chain had plenty of varied ridiing over a 2 month, long distance trip - deserts, mountains, beaches, rough roads. Im a believer in Tsubaki! :-). Worth the extras money for sure.
Cheers
Andy

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Author Topic: Chain recommendations please? (Read 3872 times)

Jim Shea

Jim Shea

Jim Shea

Jim Shea

Jim Shea

Jim Shea

Jim Shea

Jim Shea

Jim Shea

Buffo

Jim Shea

Jim Shea

Jim Shea

Jim Shea