Author Topic: Oil behind stator cover? normal? (Read 6211 times)

70cbk0 · « **on:** December 02, 2009, 03:13:55 PM »

I'm new to this bike..so sorry if this is a dumb question. Drained the oil and going to replace the stator cover (road rash).I've got it part way off and a teaspoon of oil or so has dripped out. I didn't think there would be motor oil in that area. Is that normal, or do I have a crank seal gone? Thanks, John.

kghost · « **Reply #1 on:** December 02, 2009, 03:14:59 PM »

750 = normal

70cbk0 · « **Reply #2 on:** December 02, 2009, 03:17:55 PM »

oh good!!! Thanks...most of my other bikes I've worked on were "dry" in this area

MCRider · « **Reply #3 on:** December 02, 2009, 03:31:05 PM »

To further the discussion a bit...

A trick is to put a small shim under the pedal of the centerstand. If you can get the bike to tilt to the right a tad, you will minimize the amount of oil that comes out of there when you pull the cover. It will drain back into the sump thru the drain passageways that are there.

In taking that cover off, you will need to salvage (unlikely) or replace the gasket. The oil in the cover is not under significant pressure or volume. It is there to mist the moving parts, the alternator and the starter clutch and reduction gears.

Johnie · « **Reply #4 on:** December 02, 2009, 09:18:39 PM »

And if you remove that cover it is a good idea to put some anerobic gasket sealer on the rubber grommet where the stator wires exit the case. They will leak and it is a pain in the butt. Below is a pic of that grommet. You may want to consider getting rid of those philips screws if they got buggered up too.

754 · « **Reply #5 on:** December 02, 2009, 10:32:47 PM »

I usually keep a few blocks around and shims. If I work on that side, I put a block under right side of frame, so that bike is at about a 10 to 20 degree angle.. make sure you turn forks to the right so it wont move suddenly. wiggle to make sure it stays. Even if I have a c-stand I prefer doing this.

Then let it set while you gather the tools.. most but not all oil will drain back. It is much easier to remove the screws and work on the gasket, or shifter or sprocket if its leaned over a bit, I find.

70cbk0 · « **Reply #6 on:** December 03, 2009, 06:01:19 AM »

Oh yeah, I need new philips screws for sure..and still can't get one out of the gear shifter case. letting that sit with WD40...I hear you guys talk about PB Blaster..I'm not sure sure we can buy that in Canada, I've never seen it. Is it was better than WD? Thanks for all the tips guys. Sure is a heck of a lot to learn when you start to restore a bike you've never had before!

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #7 on:** December 03, 2009, 06:06:53 AM »

Are you using an impact driver? If you don't have one, they are pretty much a must for getting these old screws out.

Johnie · « **Reply #8 on:** December 03, 2009, 06:20:13 AM »

Most of the guys remove the screws and then put the hex bolt back in. That is because the buggered up screws look pretty bad. If yours are OK then good for you. You mean you got all your screws out without an impact driver?
An impact driver has a screwdriver bit on the end and you hit it with a hammer and that will free up the stubborn screws. Here is a pic below of what it looks like.

MCRider · « **Reply #9 on:** December 03, 2009, 06:34:32 AM »

Quote from: 70cbk0 on December 03, 2009, 06:01:19 AM

Oh yeah, I need new philips screws for sure..and still can't get one out of the gear shifter case. letting that sit with WD40...I hear you guys talk about PB Blaster..I'm not sure sure we can buy that in Canada, I've never seen it. Is it was better than WD? Thanks for all the tips guys. Sure is a heck of a lot to learn when you start to restore a bike you've never had before!

Just about any other penetrant is better than WD-40. Check your hardware or auto store shelves. The best is a homemade 50/50 mix of ATF (auto store) and Acetone (hardware in paint dept). Many of us have this ready at hand, mix up a couple oz and drop it on the spot with a eyedropper, drenched cloth or such, let soak.

In your case you may need to drill the head off the screw. Start with a sharp bit in the rounded out screwdriver slots. Increase bit size till the head drops off. Easy. Then cover comes off and you can grab the stub with a vice grip. Remember you're not trying to drill out the shaft of the screw, just the head.

70cbk0 · « **Reply #10 on:** December 03, 2009, 07:17:02 AM »

Oh yeah, I have the same impact driver...just one screw won't budge yet...one that comes out the back side with threads exposed, I'm sure I'll get it, just don't want to completely bugger the head till I let it soak...I'll be buying all new screws from Honda, I suspect they're still available.

Toxic · « **Reply #11 on:** December 03, 2009, 07:26:09 AM »

Quote from: 70cbk0 on December 03, 2009, 06:01:19 AM

Oh yeah, I need new philips screws for sure..and still can't get one out of the gear shifter case. letting that sit with WD40...I hear you guys talk about PB Blaster..I'm not sure sure we can buy that in Canada, I've never seen it. Is it was better than WD? Thanks for all the tips guys. Sure is a heck of a lot to learn when you start to restore a bike you've never had before!

Canadian Tire now sells PB Blaster.

I have heard good things about the 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone so I'm going to mix some of that up for the garage.

Johnie · « **Reply #12 on:** December 03, 2009, 10:34:57 AM »

Quote from: 70cbk0 on December 03, 2009, 07:17:02 AM

Oh yeah, I have the same impact driver...just one screw won't budge yet...one that comes out the back side with threads exposed, I'm sure I'll get it, just don't want to completely bugger the head till I let it soak...I'll be buying all new screws from Honda, I suspect they're still available.

You sure you want to put screws back in there? The pic below shows the hex heads a lot of us use. But if you are going for a complete OEM restore then be prepared to pay big bucks from Honda for screws. You should be able to click on the pic to make it larger so you can see those heads.

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #13 on:** December 03, 2009, 10:43:57 AM »

John, they're hard to see with all that shine in the background.

MCRider · « **Reply #14 on:** December 03, 2009, 10:45:15 AM »

Quote from: Bob Wessner on December 03, 2009, 10:43:57 AM

John, they're hard to see with all that shine in the background.

For sure!

Johnie · « **Reply #15 on:** December 03, 2009, 10:50:45 AM »

Thanks for the at-a-boy guys. I have to be honest and say that the polishing of the covers and fork tubes is not a favorable task, but in the end it is worth it. I will be doing the same to my K4 this winter. The PO put some heavy duty scratches in the K4 cover so I have a replacement to work with. I am trying to teach my wife how to polish and let her have some fun too.

HondaNorway · « **Reply #16 on:** December 03, 2009, 12:54:19 PM »

Quote

I am trying to teach my wife how to polish and let her have some fun too.

at-a-boy

70cbk0 · « **Reply #17 on:** December 03, 2009, 10:21:46 PM »

I'm just happy as hell the wife said ok to another bike..I'm not gonna dare ask her to polish those covers!!! Thanks guys, those screws look good, I just thought I'd try and keep it as original as possible...I was able to get screws for the 66 Superhawk from Honda and they weren't expensive. I've yet to get to the Honda store and ask about these though....I'll get some PB from Crappy Tire, thanks

Simpson · « **Reply #18 on:** December 04, 2009, 03:58:38 PM »

Quote from: Johnie on December 03, 2009, 10:34:57 AM

You sure you want to put screws back in there? The pic below shows the hex heads a lot of us use. But if you are going for a complete OEM restore then be prepared to pay big bucks from Honda for screws.

Bikebandit prices are pretty reasonable for these screws. :-)
But to your point it can add up and get expensive.

Don R · « **Reply #19 on:** December 04, 2009, 04:08:56 PM »

Sears has a screw extractor set that has left hand drills with a left hand removal tool, I used it on a stripped speedometer drive screw and it came right out. Very nice.

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Author Topic: Oil behind stator cover? normal? (Read 6211 times)