Author Topic: How do I remove stripped tach drive screw? (Read 6129 times)

jessezm · « **on:** February 17, 2010, 12:39:52 PM »

Botched my tach cable removal (CB400f), and now the head of the screw is completely stripped. Can someone tell me how to remove it? If I drill out the head, there's nothing to grip in order to back it out... I know this is basic, so hopefully basic advice will proceed!

OldSchool_IsCool · « **Reply #1 on:** February 17, 2010, 12:44:19 PM »

Is there enough of a head left to cut a slot in it with a Dremmel?

MCRider · « **Reply #2 on:** February 17, 2010, 12:47:39 PM »

Quote from: jessezm on February 17, 2010, 12:39:52 PM

Botched my tach cable removal (CB400f), and now the head of the screw is completely stripped. Can someone tell me how to remove it? If I drill out the head, there's nothing to grip in order to back it out... I know this is basic, so hopefully basic advice will proceed!

This calls for the old mechanics trick of turning it out with a small chisel. Like about 1/4 chisel, very sharp. Tap it into the outside edge of the screw head, holding it at an angle diggin into the screw head, keep tapping counterclockwise and I'll bet money it comes out.

One of the neatest "old mechanics" tricks I ever learned.

BLUE71TURBO · « **Reply #3 on:** February 17, 2010, 12:55:25 PM »

Also, once you cut a slot for a screw driver, put the screw driver in the slot and smack it with a small hammer.
This should be done to any exposed screw on our motorcycles. Metal screws in aluminum causes electrolisis which
acts like locktite, hence the reason to shock it with a blow to the screw with a hammer. It also helps to make sure
you use the right size phillip screw driver.

jessezm · « **Reply #4 on:** February 17, 2010, 01:29:05 PM »

Thanks for the advice! There should be enough head to try the chisel/slotting trick, so I'll try it tonight and report back. You're right about using the right sized screwdriver. Most of these screws take a #3 impact, even though it seems to big at first. I used a #2 and this was the result.

OldSchool_IsCool · « **Reply #5 on:** February 17, 2010, 01:32:48 PM »

Quote from: jessezm on February 17, 2010, 01:29:05 PM

Thanks for the advice! There should be enough head to try the chisel/slotting trick, so I'll try it tonight and report back. You're right about using the right sized screwdriver. Most of these screws take a #3 impact, even though it seems to big at first. I used a #2 and this was the result.

Actually, they would require JIS drivers. Ever notice the little dot on the head of the screw? That's your indicator that you are dealing with a Japanese Industrial Standard screw head.

MCRider · « **Reply #6 on:** February 17, 2010, 01:36:24 PM »

Quote from: jessezm on February 17, 2010, 01:29:05 PM

Thanks for the advice! There should be enough head to try the chisel/slotting trick, so I'll try it tonight and report back. You're right about using the right sized screwdriver. Most of these screws take a #3 impact, even though it seems to big at first. I used a #2 and this was the result.

The chisel trick is different than cutting a slot. With the chisel you will likely peel up the head of the screw as you try to loosen it.

And to add to what old school said, I think thats a 5mm screw and likely a JIS with the dot on the head. The larger 6mm screws are usually ISO and a #3 should be used on them.

A #3 regular won't fit the screw in question either, at least not properly. A number 2 ISO will turn it if its in good shape, but soon it would ruin it if too much force as yours did.

Bottom line is those cable screws don't need to be that tight. Use anti sieze compound on the next one you put in.

CycleRanger · « **Reply #7 on:** February 17, 2010, 02:18:14 PM »

Needle-nose Vise-Grips are also sometimes handy for removing screws with stripped heads.

BobbyR · « **Reply #8 on:** February 17, 2010, 02:49:10 PM »

Get some penetrant on it to help things along.

Nikkisixx · « **Reply #9 on:** February 17, 2010, 04:19:01 PM »

I am a big fan of "proGrabits" - available at hardware store of your choice - for flustercucked screws.

http://www.aldencorporation.com/grabit/

faux fiddy · « **Reply #10 on:** February 17, 2010, 04:29:56 PM »

Quote from: BobbyR on February 17, 2010, 02:49:10 PM

Get some penetrant on it to help things along.

Aero-Kroil is the best in my opinion, but it's expensive.

Also a little tiny easy out comes in handy sometimes, so does a Bridgeport mill.

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Don R · « **Reply #11 on:** February 17, 2010, 04:37:21 PM »

Craftsman has a nice little kit left hand bit and left hand easy out. worked great on my 750's stripped screw.

Caseygroh1 · « **Reply #12 on:** February 17, 2010, 07:11:55 PM »

drill through the center of the screw head until the head pops off, then remove the drive and grab the rest of the screw with a vise grips.

Magpie · « **Reply #13 on:** February 17, 2010, 10:44:21 PM »

Needle nose vice grips have worked for me on small screws.
Cliff.

jessezm · « **Reply #14 on:** February 18, 2010, 07:37:36 AM »

Quote from: Magpie on February 17, 2010, 10:44:21 PM

Needle nose vice grips have worked for me on small screws.
Cliff.

Well, the screw head is all the way recessed in the valve cover, so there's nothing to grab once the head is drilled out, which is why I didn't go that route. I was going to try to cut a groove with my dremel last night, but it seems that my dremel was swallowed up in the divorce so I have to go buy a new one today.

Magpie · « **Reply #15 on:** February 18, 2010, 07:54:05 AM »

Sorry, didn't know the screw is sunk into the cover of a 400.
Cliff.

jessezm · « **Reply #16 on:** February 18, 2010, 08:10:19 AM »

Don't you dare make that mistake again!

Magpie · « **Reply #17 on:** February 18, 2010, 08:47:29 AM »

YES SIR!

Cliff.

jessezm · « **Reply #18 on:** February 18, 2010, 10:31:43 AM »

Quote from: Nikkisix on February 17, 2010, 04:19:01 PM

I am a big fan of "proGrabits" - available at hardware store of your choice - for flustercucked screws.

http://www.aldencorporation.com/grabit/

Okay folks, we have a winner! Just ran to Ace on my lunch break, got the ProGrabit (kit came with three dif. sized bits), and ran home. The screw was out in seconds.

Nikkisixx · « **Reply #19 on:** February 19, 2010, 07:28:56 AM »

Hey, cool! I am glad that worked out (pardon the pun). I think this product is made in the USA by a mom-pop type company.

jessezm · « **Reply #20 on:** February 19, 2010, 07:34:47 AM »

Oh I will definitely be using this again!

jakec · « **Reply #21 on:** May 15, 2018, 10:01:18 AM »

Just want to chime and say that the chisel method worked for me. Same bike. My screw head was shredded beyond recognition. I bought a 1/4" chisel and it turned out. The chisel is ruined but I could probably reshape it with the right tools.

flybox1 · « **Reply #22 on:** May 15, 2018, 11:24:39 AM »

left handed drill bits.

jakec · « **Reply #23 on:** May 15, 2018, 12:19:24 PM »

Both of my instrument drive screws were messed up. I used a left hand drill bit on the speedometer because the rear end of the screw is open so you can drill all the way through. The tach drive is not open on the other side which is why I went with the chisel.

flybox1 · « **Reply #24 on:** May 15, 2018, 12:47:15 PM »

Left handed drill bits are not intended to be drilled all the way thru...in case you misunderstood why I posted that suggestion

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Author Topic: How do I remove stripped tach drive screw? (Read 6129 times)