Author Topic: float pins - i think i am ready to ruin a carb (Read 3139 times)

saw750 · « **on:** March 25, 2010, 05:29:06 PM »

so i searched the forum - checked the bible - and if i am not mistaken the only ways to get the float pins out is with a center punch/automatic sprung center punch or nail? possibly with the addition of heat?

i bought a brand spank me new heat gut today so i have the heat covered (the wife doesnt know i put it on our account at the hardware store..eh it was her birthday this week i can tell her i thought it would make a good gift) i have 6" auto. center punch

i have lubed the pillars and pin for a three days now....and i think its time to ruin the carb

is there any things else i should know before i break off a pillar? any technique? bracing etc??

sigh

wireman · « **Reply #1 on:** March 25, 2010, 05:44:48 PM »

take your time and don't force it mine came out easy with a little patience.

kslrr · « **Reply #2 on:** March 25, 2010, 05:44:55 PM »

This is a common issue. If they are brass pins, the center punch will only make it worse by spreading the end of the pin. A recess punch almost the same diameter is a better bet. Support the post with a piece of steal with a slot in it, clamped in a vice and tap the punch gingerly. If you do get them out, there are stainless steal pins out there.

scottly · « **Reply #3 on:** March 25, 2010, 06:16:23 PM »

If the WORST happens (you break off a "pillar"), big-jim may be able to help

Hasenkopf · « **Reply #4 on:** March 25, 2010, 06:17:59 PM »

try using a block of wood to support the pins while you drive them out with a small drift punch....you will need to make a hole in the wood for the pin to go into, gitting it out of the carb is the main thing...

ekpent · « **Reply #5 on:** March 25, 2010, 09:36:53 PM »

I remember you had some major gumming issues etc with those. Have they had a good long soak yet in a gallon bucket of Gunk or other carb cleaner to really loosen them up other than just oil.I use a nail with a flat ground end to gently tap from both ends to get it loose.

fastbroshi · « **Reply #6 on:** March 26, 2010, 12:39:57 AM »

Well once you get them out, it wouldn't be a bad idea to polish them with lightly with ye olde dremmel, may taper the last half mm on the ends to aid removal and insertion in the future.

Johnie · « **Reply #7 on:** March 26, 2010, 05:34:31 AM »

So you must have already tried PB Blaster. No sense to rush it. As a last resort how about a fine drill with a block of wood as support. I would try that before I would smack that post. But give the PB a chance to work. If you think about it, both ends of the float pin are probably stuck. How about cutting that pin off so rather than working against 2 stuck ends you can work one at a time.

Jim F · « **Reply #8 on:** March 26, 2010, 07:25:32 PM »

Saw, If you break one just call me and I can weld that back for you.
I do it all the time so its pretty common when rebuilding an old carb

Jim French

www.jmfmicroweld.com

Here are some pictures

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=18649.0

saw750 · « **Reply #9 on:** March 27, 2010, 09:22:18 AM »

thanks everyone for the suggestions and pointers..

well i managed to get one out without breaking a pillar..i bent them a lil but no breakage..

the float didnt survive nor did the pin.

and yes i was being very very very careful. this puppy wouldnt move with out brute force.

i soaked, i heated. i did everything by the book (no i didnt drill - i lack the dexterity and the equipment to do extremely fine work)

those pins are cemented in place - tired my best but again what worked was repeated heating and lubrication.

after three days of soaking - it was heat heat heat and more lubrication before it even moved just .5mm..ugh and then i just kept working it...pulling..center punching heating and lubricating

wow...

Johnie · « **Reply #10 on:** March 27, 2010, 10:37:32 AM »

Good for you...just goes to show you can not rush these things. Now you are better equipped for the next time you do it.

fastbroshi · « **Reply #11 on:** March 27, 2010, 12:33:55 PM »

Quote from: big-jim on March 26, 2010, 07:25:32 PM

Saw, If you break one just call me and I can weld that back for you.
I do it all the time so its pretty common when rebuilding an old carb

Jim French

www.jmfmicroweld.com

Here are some pictures

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=18649.0

Wow those are pretty cool Jim, it looks like the laser just goes back and forth vs. in circles. Still looks great though.

fastbroshi · « **Reply #12 on:** March 27, 2010, 12:35:15 PM »

Good to hear you finally got those out man, luckily I haven't run into that yet, knock on wood.

saw750 · « **Reply #13 on:** March 27, 2010, 12:54:27 PM »

well i am not pattin' myself on the back just yet - one down and four to go

there has to be some greener alternatives to the usual solvents that actually work - lets just say i feel a lil twitchie and feel like i have been punched in the bearings..lmao

i wonder if my wifes sonic jewelry cleaner would work as parts cleaner..lmao

is it even worth trying to save the floats?

fastbroshi · « **Reply #14 on:** March 27, 2010, 01:01:04 PM »

Judgement call on that one. I assume the carb was secured in a vice or some other way so you weren't constantly hitting them.

saw750 · « **Reply #15 on:** March 27, 2010, 06:13:26 PM »

yes secured and braced (obviously my bracing could be better)

RatBikeRandy · « **Reply #16 on:** March 28, 2010, 08:01:56 AM »

Being VERY careful, 3 came out OK. Guess what happened on the 4th? I was able to repair with very small pin for strength and JB Weld. I checked up on the stuff first and it doesn't break down in gasoline. Two years in and no problems.

HondaMan · « **Reply #17 on:** March 28, 2010, 08:17:20 AM »

Lacquer thinner works well on soaking these, too. It dissolves the varnish, and quickly.
After the pin is out, run a drill bit by hand through the pin support and spin-polish the brass shaft in a drill with some fine sandpaper. They will last for many years, again.

saw750 · « **Reply #18 on:** March 28, 2010, 12:03:02 PM »

good tip thank you - what size drill bit??

well that second pin came out without an issue..soaked over night..a little heat and tap tap it was out.

after the last pin i have to say this was anti-climatic ...i expected a struggle like the last one but nothing..sigh lol

on this latest carb i noticed that the the brass syphon tube in the bowl was notched-ringed? is this something that needs to be replaced?

oh amal how i miss you...lmao

thank you in advance -saw

Fabricator · « **Reply #19 on:** March 28, 2010, 04:25:43 PM »

Nice work in the repair pics Jim! I welded one for a friend with my Synchrowave 300.... That was "fun". I was using a WP300 weldcraft liquid-cooled torch. I like your method better

Fabricator

Jim F · « **Reply #20 on:** March 28, 2010, 05:34:30 PM »

Quote from: Fabricator on March 28, 2010, 04:25:43 PM

Nice work in the repair pics Jim! I welded one for a friend with my Synchrowave 300.... That was "fun". I was using a WP300 weldcraft liquid-cooled torch. I like your method better

Fabricator

Thanks

HondaMan · « **Reply #21 on:** March 29, 2010, 06:08:06 AM »

Quote from: saw750 on March 28, 2010, 12:03:02 PM

good tip thank you - what size drill bit??

on this latest carb i noticed that the the brass syphon tube in the bowl was notched-ringed? is this something that needs to be replaced?

I just use a drill bit smaller than the hole, then drag it back & forth like a file to use the sharp flute edges on the insides of the holes. You're just scaping off the non-metallic corrosion that made it stick so much.

What's a "syphon tube". ?

saw750 · « **Reply #22 on:** April 07, 2010, 04:12:34 PM »

eh i was two for two - saved two, ruined two.

so what did i learn. let it soak. let it soak. let it soak.

what i found that worked the best was just letting the old carb soak in bucket of simple green for a couple days

carb cleaner, liquid wrench, pb plast etc etc - those products alone did not do the job of the eco friendly simple green (and my nads didnt hurt as much)

let it soak!!!!

once out of the soak i did oil w/pb blast and work the floats.

then added heat and the pins came out nicely

repeated applications of pb blast or liquid wrench over a couple days without the aid of soak ended with two ruined floats and pins

let it soak!! simple green. soak and walk away!

thanks everyone

D · « **Reply #23 on:** July 16, 2010, 12:31:06 AM »

I just did a carb with stuck float pins, they seemed to be immovable. I let the carbs soak in straight simple green for over a day. Then I sprayed the carbs and pins with aerosol carb leaner. After that I put the bowls on filled with gasoline, let it set for less than an hour. Took the bowls back off sprayed pins with pb blaster, then reached for the hammer and punch. One technique I used to avoid breaking the post was to allow the entire carb to move while I hit the pin with a gently semi-pointed punch. The key is to not hit too hard and allow the carb to MOVE. After the pin broke free I used a small allen wrench to push the pin entirely out rather than grab it with any pliers that would gouge and score the pin.

morethrottle · « **Reply #24 on:** July 16, 2010, 04:10:30 PM »

I guess I've been lucky getting them out just using a small finish nail, and it seems like they always want to come out one way easier than the other! (after a good soaking of course!!) I was wondering what is the best way to peen the ends after reinstallation? Sometimes they go in a little too easy after cleaning. Thanks.

News:

Author Topic: float pins - i think i am ready to ruin a carb (Read 3139 times)

saw750

saw750

saw750

saw750

saw750

saw750