Topic: Tips On Cleaning Up The Triangle / Hiding The Electrics?

[campbmic]

So I have my pods on and I have my jets and other parts coming in the mail. I was looking at the triangle in the picture below and was wondering how people clean them up.



Electrical Board-
I'm not using the starter, the button doesn't even work so I was wondering if I could remove the starter solenoid and what else? I don't know what a lot of the stuff is on the electrical board. I know that the rectifier and regulator and fuse box have to stay but what can go? Also,I've heard of people putting them under the gas tank but what other options are there? This picture doesn't show it but I now have a rear fender on it. I was thinking they might go under the taillight holder?

Battery-
I have one of those pretty cheap $35 walmart batteries. I know that most people fit a battery holder that holds the battery sideways under the tank. With my battery can I turn it sideways? Battery acid would really messup my paint job! Anyone have a good link for how these battery holders are made?

If anyone knows of some tips/links/diagrams for any of the above mentioned it would be great!

Thanks!

[754]

With a smaller battery you have more room. You can take the solenoid off. You can prpbably make a near flat cover for the triangle if you are handy with sheet metal..

[campbmic]

I wanted to be able to see through the triangle. Relocate the battery and the electronics

[laser145]

I know a lot of people mount a smaller battery under the hump in a cafe seat... but I don't know if you were planning on going that route.

[campbmic]

I'm planning on doing lots of touring on the bike and I was thinking of sticking with the stock seat.

[Muneio]

I'm interested in finding out how this is done too. Also what about relocating / hiding the oil tank on dry sump models like a 76' 750f1 ?

[Shenanigans]

If you use the stock seat pan, which sits pretty high above the frame rails you can lay down a battery about centered with the frame rails. That way it only protrudes a little into "the triangle"

You can ditch the starter solenoid but to be honest it does not take up that much space and is easy to hide. Also get a single unit regulator rectifier.

[Tretnine]

Another common tip is to get an absorbed glass material battery (AGM), which you can run sideways or upside down or whatever and put it wherever you want it, they're also supposed to be a bit more durable. Usually people stick the electronic stuff under the cafe seat...

[laser145]

I wonder if you could remove the seat, turn it over, and dig it out from the inside... I've never messed with a seat before... but the padding is pretty thick.  Would it still be comfortable with about half of the padding it has now?

Hard to explain what I'm thinking... but if you could build a seat pan that was elevated by an inch, maybe two, and empty underneath...then you could stretch the seat cover back down over the elevated pan, so that it looked stock but had some extra height underneath...

I don't have the skill, but others here do for sure

[Tretnine]

I wonder if you could remove the seat, turn it over, and dig it out from the inside... I've never messed with a seat before... but the padding is pretty thick.  Would it still be comfortable with about half of the padding it has now?

Hard to explain what I'm thinking... but if you could build a seat pan that was elevated by an inch, maybe two, and empty underneath...then you could stretch the seat cover back down over the elevated pan, so that it looked stock but had some extra height underneath...

I don't have the skill, but others here do for sure

This is pretty much the idea behind a cafe racer and that rear cowl. If you do lots of work you could make the rear seat position harder but still functional. You might need to rewire some to make it work, though

[campbmic]

Shenanigans- That was exactly what Im looking for is it your bike? If so what type is it? What type of battery do you have and how did you make your battery holder? Also, are the electronics hidden under the seat too?

[campbmic]

I wonder if you could remove the seat, turn it over, and dig it out from the inside... I've never messed with a seat before... but the padding is pretty thick.  Would it still be comfortable with about half of the padding it has now?

Hard to explain what I'm thinking... but if you could build a seat pan that was elevated by an inch, maybe two, and empty underneath...then you could stretch the seat cover back down over the elevated pan, so that it looked stock but had some extra height underneath...

I don't have the skill, but others here do for sure

This is pretty much the idea behind a cafe racer and that rear cowl. If you do lots of work you could make the rear seat position harder but still functional. You might need to rewire some to make it work, though

Also, the rectifier gets pretty hot and needs some air or it will burn out.... or catch your pants on fire.

[Shenanigans]

Shenanigans- That was exactly what Im looking for is it your bike? If so what type is it? What type of battery do you have and how did you make your battery holder? Also, are the electronics hidden under the seat too?

Yeah that's my bike. I made the battery box from some scrap metal and welded it in. It would be easier to modify a extra battery box. I have a gel type battery that is laying flat. The electronics are there also, the problem with putting the wiring in the tail section (at least to me) is that you have to run all your wires all the way back there. I was shooting for minimal wiring including length. My key switch is also under there. Here is an old photo, I have since soldered the reg/rec wires instead of using connectors among other things. But its basically the same.

[campbmic]

Thanks Shenanigans I don't have welding capabilities but I might be able to get someone to help me out with that. Any cheap sources for reg/rect combos and these gel batteries or something else that might work?

[Shenanigans]

Gel battery was purchased from batteries plus for around 50 bucks. Its smaller and only 6 or 7 AH compared to the stock 12-14? If your charging system is not in tip top shape you will have problems, or if you do a lot of stop and go low RPM travel with a full load on the charging system. I think there are a couple of cheaper general use option for a rectifier/regulator. I just put down for the nice new finned unit, It was 99$ last time I checked.

If you really want to get into it you can build your own for cheap. Its somewhere on this site. http://homepage.ntlworld.com/frank.cooper1/frameset.html

[xalwayswins]

shenanigans, what did you do about your oil tank? im going for the same look. but have been having trouble figuring out where to relocate the oil tank.

[MCRider]

shenanigans, what did you do about your oil tank? im going for the same look. but have been having trouble figuring out where to relocate the oil tank.

500s don't have oil tanks. So you'll have to trade in.   

Assuming you have a 750, many here have designed flat tanks that reside between the rails, behind the carbs or in front of the wheel. I've seen a tank in the cafe seat cowl. Some put it in a redesigned gas tank. All have compromises.

[xalwayswins]

haha i suppose that would make a differnce. i was thinking about getting a friend to tig weld a oil tank that fit in the area where the stock coil mounts and relocating the coils. im running my bike as kick start only and taking out the starter and solenoid. getting a single unit regulator/rectifier.and using a much smaller gel battery and probablymaking a simuliar electrics setup like yours. i cut about 6 inches off the sail section of the frame and will be making a flat tracker style seat and a small rear fender so putting the oil tank in the tail section wouldnt work for me. im gonna search for the flat tanks near the air filters like you said. see what i can find. i just want all clutter off the bike.

[the architect]

My next build will almost assuredly be a bike with no remote oil tank.  Relocating it and fabricating the tank has been challenging.  I'm moderately satisfied with the result; although, I'll probably do another one . . .

Oil tank lives in the triangle.  The electronics (including a 10 or 12 -- can't remember for sure -- Ah battery, new solid state regulator, new solid state rectifier, original starter solenoid, fuse, key switch).

[Muneio]

Excellent job! That's about the cleanest custom oil tank I've seen, like the shape, size and location. Did you fabricate that yourself or have it done? And can I ask how much if you had it done?
Bill

[brandon]

This is a great thread. Lots of good info in here. Not thread jacking Where are you fellas getting the reg/rec combos and what's the part number(s)? Also are you guys changing out the winker units for a modern device as well?

OP: for batteries I have seen people use drill batteries with no issues. I also have a link saved on my comp for a really nice super small battery, but cannot get to it until later. Will post the link later today.

[shorterdanny]

for combined regulator rectifiers see

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/rrs-gallery-3910-0.html

seems the cb750 DOHC is often used part rr21 although rr24 is listed for the SOHC....

currently looking in to this myself for my complete rewire, haven't looked at the winker relay yet but a modern one sounds like a no brainer...

also looking for a oil tank, going through the custom chopper mags for ideas.

[campbmic]

Good looking bike architect

[xalwayswins]

architect, what are the dimensions for that electrics box? i would like to make something very similar

[brandon]

OP: In regards to the battery and my comment earlier, I'm back home and can now access that link: http://www.orientexpress.com/Universal+Parts+%252526+Accessories/Battery/?osCsid=3febfdc1e1903f2b2a63c304cc093810 . Scroll about 2/3rds down and check out the small white one. That may be the ticket for you.