Topic: side cover stripping question

[cbjunkie]

i'm liking the elbow grease method more and more...

[TwoTired]

The most likely direction for paint will be one of DonD's kits. Anyone know what type of paint(s) these use and what the proper prep and sealing primer would be used with these?

http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=5692.0

Don describes his process in reply #13 there.  But, I didn't notice any brands mentioned.

With a clean smooth surface, he starts with 2 part epoxy primer (this would be the sealer).
However, a bead blasted metal surface should start with metal prep or alumiprep imediately before primer application to remove any oxidatation that occurs during the time between bead blast and paint application.

Cheers,

[TwoTired]

i'm liking the elbow grease method more and more...

Elbow or thumb print grease can ruin an otherwise nicely prepped paint job.
Been there, done that.

[cbjunkie]

so, since this is about sidecovers, what do you prep a sidecover with?

[pelicanwheel]

Thanks everyone...I'm leaning towards sandpaper.  I have too much invested to be try to the more dangerous methods.  But to that point, I'm thinking I'll use the spare cover with an air sander to see if I can safely get most of the flatter surfaces stripped that way.  I'm also thinking some sort of sanding flapper thingy for my electric drill.  I've seen them with strips of sandpaper as well as soft plastic strings like a broom stick.

I'll try this on Saturday...take progress pictures...time the job...and post.  If the spare goes well, I'll try the right side next, then the intended left side.

Stay tuned

[Teach]

has anyone ever chorme plated the carb bodies?  I've done the float bowls, but would like to do the bodies as well.

check this out:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-CB750-Fully-Chromed-Motor-Engine-1978-1-of-a-kind_W0QQitemZ4607143163QQcategoryZ35595QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[cbjunkie]

uh...wow.

[pelicanwheel]

Teach - Great find!!!!

OMG - That guy's story and mine are almost identical!!!!!  This is too funny.  Even down to the fact that we both are stock brokers!!!!!  I had to write him.  I provided him a link to this thread.  I hope he comments here!

His engine looks almost exactly like mine, except for the chopper stuff (finned covers and finned valve adjustment plugs).  I also did refresh the internals, and he didn't.  But cosmetically, they are very close.

Wow!!!

Pelican

[grumburg]

Read this last night. Also said he has over $10k in this project. Give new definition to "broke- r"

[TwoTired]

so, since this is about sidecovers, what do you prep a sidecover with?

Well, if you are going down to bare plastic, it doesn't oxidize nearly as fast as metals do.  Clean is essential, though.  Paint manufacturers also supply plastic cleaners to use prior to application of their paint.  I was just looking at PPG's site and noticed they offer a MX192 plastic cleaner for use with some of their paint offerings.  Whatever you use to clean, any residues should not interfere with whatever overcoat you are putting on.  I warn you that residues from a plastic cleaner from PPG may not be compatible with an over coat paint from another manufacturer.  Companies test within their own product lines and seldom promote use of products by competing manufacturers.
So, you must always consider the overcoat for whatever layer you are putting on.  Starting from the outside, the clearcoat must be compatible with the color coat, the color coat must be compatible with the surfacing primer, the surfacing primer must be compatible with the primer/sealer, and the primer/sealer must be compatible with the surface cleaner or prep wash.

The last plastic covers I did about 7 years ago (72 CB500).  Because of the legislative situation here in Kalifornia I was forced to use enamel paint in a rattle can.  They didn't offer much in the way of system support beyond the "clean, dry, surface" retort.  I didn't strip it down to bare plastic except where it was nearly worn through because of some previous rubbing on something.  These had been poorly painted over (black) by a PO.  However, despite the runs and orange peel, the paint stuck well.  So, I went for creating a smooth surface down to 320 grit.  And, if it went through the paint layers in places...so be it.  
I cleaned with Brillianize (a plastic cleaner, degreaser with anti static properties), rinsed with distilled water two or three times, used a hair dryer to dry it off.  Nothing else but the tack rag and air touched the surface, besides primer.  I used the same brand rattle can primer as the gloss top coat.
I also painted the tank using a different base prep.  The paint turned out fine, but I can't be proud of the brown color selection (yeech, what was I thinking?)  It will be overcoated soon with a better color.  But, it still shines, hasn't peeled or blistered in any way.  Beside color, what more can you ask for in a paint?  Oh yeah, UV Resistance, I suppose.

Best of luck on your endeavor!

[Terry in Australia]

Thanks everyone...I'm leaning towards sandpaper.  I have too much invested to be try to the more dangerous methods.  But to that point, I'm thinking I'll use the spare cover with an air sander to see if I can safely get most of the flatter surfaces stripped that way.  I'm also thinking some sort of sanding flapper thingy for my electric drill.  I've seen them with strips of sandpaper as well as soft plastic strings like a broom stick.

I'll try this on Saturday...take progress pictures...time the job...and post.  If the spare goes well, I'll try the right side next, then the intended left side.

Stay tuned

Don't use any kind of power sander on a sidecover mate, the plastic is as soft as the pint, and you'll just bugger it. Just wet sand it with some 280 to remove the paint, then some 400 to flatten the plastic, prime and paint. They're only sidecovers, so wont take long.

[Bob Wessner]

They're only sidecovers, so wont take long.

How many beers would you estimate?

[cbjunkie]

word up to that, terry...it took about .3 seconds for me to eat into the edge of mine with a brush wheel...what was I thinking???

thanks for the good info TT - as always.


bob - depends on the beer...don't, whatever you do, go out and buy a 6 pack of "delerium tremens"...at over 8% alchohol you;re likely to sand down through your workbench and then put down the most beautiful flake orange enamel ...on the floor of your shop. 

[clarkjh]

word up to that, terry...it took about .3 seconds for me to eat into the edge of mine with a brush wheel...what was I thinking???

thanks for the good info TT - as always.


bob - depends on the beer...don't, whatever you do, go out and buy a 6 pack of "delerium tremens"...at over 8% alchohol you;re likely to sand down through your workbench and then put down the most beautiful flake orange enamel ...on the floor of your shop. 

Cool, always wanted to paint my floor

James

[Terry in Australia]

They're only sidecovers, so wont take long.

How many beers would you estimate?

Depends how hot it is Bob, was 110 deg F on Thursday, I had 6 beers in short succession in my steel garage as the thermometer hovered near 120 deg F, without needing to piss, ha ha! Of course, on your side of the pond, drinking a beer outside, might be more akin to licking a popsicle, ha ha! Cheers, "Sweaty Balls" Terry.

[Teach]

OMG - That guy's story and mine are almost identical!!!!!

After reading about your project and his; for a moment I thought it was yours

[pelicanwheel]

Teach - I know, isnt it weird. There is even another coincidence...about two years ago, I tried to sell my project on Ebay and no one bid on it (except I tried to sell the whole package but was too lazy to take pics...I just described what I had).  The guy with the current auciton wrote me back and agreed it was funny!
Pelican

[Terry in Australia]

That's a nice looking start for a project, although I question the sellers intelligence for adding that stupid extended swingarm, what's all that about? If he gets any more than 10 percent of his 10K back though, I'll be surprised.

What made me laugh the most was the dumb-ass questions posted on his auction, some of those guys are obviously sitting on their brains, if they read his description, (the assumption being that they can read) they wouldn't need to ask any of them.

The classic was this: "WHAT COMES WITH THE ENGINE? ELECTRICS ETC. DO YOU GUARANTEE ENGINE TO RUN? WAS IT PUT ON DYNO? WAS IT TEST RUN AT ALL? THANKS, BARBARA" after the seller had already said that the engine was stock, and had not run since he started the project 3 years ago............ I take it "Barbara" has a CD in her walkman titled "Breathing Instructions"?

I take back what I said about how voting in the US should be compulsory, instead all voters should be subjected to an IQ test before they're allowed to vote, ha ha! Cheers, Terry. 

[Magpie]

I just spoke to guy that does soda blasting and he claims it will strip the paint off the plastic sidecovers without harming the plastic. Does anyone have any experience with this process? He claims he can strip paint off cars w/o harming rubber or glass surfaces. I could give him a broken side panel to experiment on I suppose. And, no, soda blasting is not shaking up a can of pop and blasting the panel with it. Thanks,
Cliff.

[Bob Wessner]

Interesting approach. See the link below. It mentions using on PVC and wood. I wonder how widespread or what its availability is.. oh yeah, and cost.

http://www.pacificsodablast.com/applications.html

[Magpie]

Soda blasting cost? The guy here said his minimum is $150 but he couldn't charge that for small items so he would wait until he has a number of things to do at once. Then it may cost around $30 a sidepanel. The ones I have are thick with paint so sanding may not get to the detail enough for the badge mounts. He has a mobile service.
Cliff.

[Terry in Australia]

Soda blasting cost? The guy here said his minimum is $150 but he couldn't charge that for small items so he would wait until he has a number of things to do at once. Then it may cost around $30 a sidepanel. The ones I have are thick with paint so sanding may not get to the detail enough for the badge mounts. He has a mobile service.
Cliff.

If you go to that website, you'll see that they use a product called PST to remove "hard-difficult paints (such as catalyzed polyurethane)" prior to blasting your item with baking soda.

So, they first use paint stripper, then blast off the remains with baking soda? What do they then coat it with, snake oil? Hmmmnnn...........

[Geeto67]

My local  autobody supply shop sells spray on plastic bumber paint stripper in an aerosol can. I have done about three sidecovers with it. It is a very slow process as it will only take off the paint one layer at a time. When you get down to the plastic it will have kind of a rough finish presumably from the etching qualities of the factory primer and paint. At this point I usually hit it with 250 grit sandpaper to make the finsish ready fro paint. Then a spray with primer made for plastics (has some flex agent in it) and shoot the color.

[cbjunkie]

what's it called, oh prophet.
...since on this whole thread, you are the ONLY person to come up with some helpful alternative to tedious hand-sanding... 

[Bob Wessner]

you are the ONLY person to come up with some helpful alternative to tedious hand-sanding... 

And a possible reduction in my beer consumption.