Topic: Rebuilding front end ran into problems

[campbmic]

So, I just put new gaitors and new fork seals on my 1975 CB550K1 but ran into a problem when trying to get the wheel on. I have the rotor on the LEFT side of the bike and it seems to be waaaayyy too close to the fork leg.



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I have the speedometer unt on the right side and I can't get the bottom piece that holds the front axle in place back on because it keeps hitting the speedometer unit.



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I'm replacing my fork seals and gaitors and was trying to clean up the bottom of the forks a bit before installing the new seals on them. I was wondering if you can sand down the outside of the fork bottoms to get them to shine. Say with like 1500-2000 grit then steel wool? I don't want the fork bottoms to rust or get all grey in color (like they are now) so what are my best options?

Also, does it matter which side of the fork seal is up and down?

[DHolbrook]

Sanding sounds ok, but let someone else chime in there.  It absolutely matters what direction you install your seals.  Generally, the open face, or more open face, goes down facing the ground.  Also, I've had great results boiling my fork lowers for about 5 minutes.  This way the old seals pop right out and after a cleaning, while still warm, the new seals will slide in easier.

[the architect]

Fork seal installation direction is critical!  Often, letters/writing face up, but not always. Be sure to check for correct orientation, or you'll get the esteemed task of a second chance.

You cam sand the fork lowers. I've done it. They have a clearcoat from the factory, so you have to get through that to achieve any results. I started with 3xx grit and worke my way up to 1500. Then I set to work with the polishing wheel. Looks great. One word of caution, though. Without any protection, aluminum eventually oxidizes, especially if it gets neglected. Some folks clear the lowers after polishing. Some just make sure to cleN regularly and keep them waxed/oiled/whatever.

Cheers!  

[fastbroshi]

  Top of the seals should be flat when installed.  The spring or grooved end should face the bottom.  Think about it, makes sense right?  I've heard to not use steel wool, but whatever.  If you start with that level of steel wool, you're gonna be sanding a while.  Might as well get a TV with you while you do it and put in Schindler's list, then watch it 10 times. 
   Then do the other fork.

[MCRider]

Adding to what others have said:
They lowers are aluminum so they won't rust.
Use paint stripper to get the lacquer off quickly. Then start with heavier grit sandpaper, 300 or 600: wet or dry works good, work up to 1200/1500. You may like that and stop. Or continue to the polish wheel work thru three rouges to end at white.

Use a polish like semichrome to delay the inevitable oxidation. If you don't let it get too bad, you can always bring it (shine) back.

If you haven't bot fork seals yet, give these a look.
http://www.thunderproducts.com/Leakproofforkseals.htm

[campbmic]

Cool thanks guys, fork seals are now installed and now its off to blockbuster to rend Schindler list

[fastbroshi]

Well before you do Mike... so I take it your forks aren't apart?  I usually wet sand my aluminum stuff, works well at washing away all the loose aluminum dust.  Also easy to check your work.  Were you planning on doing it dry? 

[campbmic]

I did it dry up to 2000 grit then washed it off and steel wooled then polished with a chrome polisher.

[Motoguy23]

I did the whole start off at 300 and worked up at 1500.  Then after that I used regular paper and it left it shiny where I could see myself pretty decent about 10 inches away.  I sanded in long strokes up the leg so it lookes uniform and it gave it a nice finish that isnt too flashy for a daily driver.

[fastbroshi]

cool show us pics when ur done

[campbmic]

I updated with some pictures of my new problem

[GammaFlat]

I'm with MCRider on the paint stripper.  I used something from Menards or HomeDepot (don't remember which) that was some sort of citrus based paint stripper.  It worked well to get the clear off.  Then I used polishing wheels with the 3 different colors of rouge.  All from Harborfreight.  My results were terrific.  I could have gone a little more and had close to chrome finish and I may some day but getting the clear off is a very good start - that goes for engine side covers as well.  

I did the polishing when I had the forks off the bike but others here have done marvelous jobs on the forks while taking the wheel and fender off.  

Good luck!,

John

[steam-powered man]

looks like you're missing the collar, on the left side. goes between the bearing and "nut".  check out the exploded view of your bike on bikebandit.com, item #27.

[fastbroshi]

So, I just put new gaitors and new fork seals on my 1975 CB550K1 but ran into a problem when trying to get the wheel on. I have the rotor on the LEFT side of the bike and it seems to be waaaayyy too close to the fork leg.



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I have the speedometer unt on the right side and I can't get the bottom piece that holds the front axle in place back on because it keeps hitting the speedometer unit.



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My money is on the speedo drive, something isn't right there.  You didn't replace or take away any components so it should all go back together.

[MCRider]

Dollars to doughnuts the axle is in backwards.

Assuming you took the axle out. As suggested look at a fish parts diagram.

[campbmic]

Well I took the wheel off to check both of these things. The axle is in the right way for sure. I believe all of the washers and spacers are there. For some reason when I put everything back on the bike everything worked. I guess it was just sitting strange.

When I took off the axle I noticed that the big nut on the end of the axle bolt was actually fairly loose. Should I be concerned about this or should the wheel stay on by the means of the four bolts nuts at the bottom of the fork?

[fastbroshi]

Maybe it wasn't torqued down correctly before and just worked it's way loose.  Good reminder to check your fasteners periodically.  Especially on a 30 year old bike.

[Alan F.]

Your forks should bind a whole lot less now. 

[mystic_1]

Well I took the wheel off to check both of these things. The axle is in the right way for sure. I believe all of the washers and spacers are there. For some reason when I put everything back on the bike everything worked. I guess it was just sitting strange.

When I took off the axle I noticed that the big nut on the end of the axle bolt was actually fairly loose. Should I be concerned about this or should the wheel stay on by the means of the four bolts nuts at the bottom of the fork?

The drive dogs on the speedometer drive may not have been engaged properly.  There are two notches on the speedometer drive plate that engage with tabs inside the speedometer gearbox, if they're not oriented right they won't allow the parts to come together properly, so the whole assembly is then too wide.  When you dissassembled and then reassembled, the notches probably fell into place.


The front axle should be tightened down to the specified torque before it's mounted into the forks.   When properly tightened, the axle and speedo gearbox should move together as a unit, but spin freely in the wheel.

mystic_1