Topic: I think my mind is getting worse. Cam chain tensioner adjustment help please.

[Really?]

My mind is all focked up.  I can't figure this out.  A sign of age I guess.  AND, trying to find the highest point on the cam lobes to set the points turned my mind to mush.  I got that finally, that is done.

What I can't figure out is the cam chain adjuster part.  I have read the shop manual over and over again.  I have gone through tons of posts.  I could not find anything in the FAQ either.

Here is what I got;

1.  Set it to 15 degrees ATDC of 1-4. Check
2.  Make sure the tappets are free on 1-4. Check
3.  Loosen the camchain looknut and back out the setting screw until the tensioner arm is released and moves in to take up the slack. eh?  This I do not get.  After the setting screw is loosened, is this think going to magically apply the correct pressure against the camchain on it's own with a spring?  So, loosen, let it do its thing and then re-tighten?  Is that it?
4.  Restighten the setting screw and locknut.  I can figure this part out, sooo Check.


You guys make it seem so simple in the posts.  Heh, prolly is. 

I have not touched a set of points since about '78-'79 and it was on my 400-4.  I got it then but I was also 14.

[MCRider]

Yes that's it...theoretically. If the tensioner plunger is free to move freely, under spring pressure. The spring is of the correct preload to do the job.

What those of us who do not trust it do... the back of the tensioner housing has a hole in it. Insert a small screwdriver or i use the short side of a Allen wrench, in and push on the plunger to make sure the plunger has gone into the chain like it should, overcoming any stickiness or corrosion. Then release the hand pressure to let the chain reflex a little. (If you want a REAL quiet engine, maintain the pressure on your probe while tightening the lock bolt and nut. This will accelerate the wear on your internal pieces, but it will be quiet. NOT recommended.) Then tighten the bolt and nut.

Iin the worst of cases, the flat on the plunger bar can be dimpled by aggressive tightening of the lock bolt. If this has happened you can do the routine, then when you tighten the bolt, the plunger backs out again so the bolt will return to its dimple. You can only fix this by removal, inspection and filing or replacement.

There you go!

[Really?]

TY Ron!

[MCRider]

TY Ron!

Your welcome. While pushing on the back end of the plunger, turn the engine backwards a tad. You should feel the plunger push back on your hand as the back run of the chain tightens up. This will confirm to you that the plunger is not stuck, and you can likely trust it to do its job without help.

[Really?]

TY again Ron!

I checked for movement as you said.  It moved just like you said.

Gap & timing set. 2-3 was firing early. 
Came chain tensioner adjusted.
Valves adjusted.  Most of them were off a bit, 1 to 2 mm.
New hose clamps for the boots.  The boots shrunk enough to make the stock clamps not tight enough.  Should be no leaks at all now, if there were.
Next to button it up, warm it up and sync the carbs.

Hopefully she runs better after all that, it should.  Not that is was all that bad to begin with.

[MCRider]

Ta Daaa!

[Deltarider]

Most of them were off a bit, 1 to 2 mm

1 to 2 mm??? Are you sure? Not my understanding of a bit off.

[MCRider]

Most of them were off a bit, 1 to 2 mm

1 to 2 mm??? Are you sure? Not my understanding of a bit off.

mistake
mm = thou (I think)

[Really?]

Yea, that be it.  .001 to .002  Mostly .001

Finished syncing the carbs.  Still not as good as I would like but good. 

I have new NGK caps but they are resistor type.  I see that I have NGK R DRE8S-L already in the bike.  I read that cannot be that way with resistor caps so gotta get new plugs before I put the new caps on.

[BobbyR]

I have a 750K8 and I don;t have a hole in the back??

[MCRider]

I have a 750K8 and I don;t have a hole in the back??

My first hand experience ends at about K2. So I've learned something about K8s.

[bollingball]

BobbyR you should have. Sure a dirt dobber didn't fill it up or PO change it?

[MCRider]

BobbyR you should have. Sure a dirt dobber didn't fill it up or PO change it?

Yeah I looked it up o the motogrid microfishy and it carries the same part number as the early ones. I suspect a dirt dobber.

Wash behind the ears much? 

[BobbyR]

Looks like clean metal I will look again

[Nortstudio]

Does the 550k have this same hole?  I have never seen it, but have had the same luckless attempts at adjusting the tension.

Thanks

[MCRider]

Does the 550k have this same hole?  I have never seen it, but have had the same luckless attempts at adjusting the tension.

Thanks

No the 500/550 has something completely different, beyond the comprehension of mortal men.  Once understood, the 750 adjuster is a positive fool proof piece.

[Nortstudio]

So with the 550, you just do the procedure and HOPE it works???  I've never been confident that it has, despite following the direction to the letter....

[MCRider]

So with the 550, you just do the procedure and HOPE it works???  I've never been confident that it has, despite following the direction to the letter....

I'm not a 550 guy, but that's what I've gathered from conversations. Start a fresh thread, I'm sure the 550 guys will help out.

[Nortstudio]

Thanks