Author Topic: tank paint prep  (Read 2953 times)

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Offline Ernest

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tank paint prep
« on: April 12, 2006, 10:00:36 AM »
Many questions about body work, I hope someone would be kind enough to fill in unexplained posts I have read regarding prep work.  I have my 750 tank stripped and at the point where I need to start adding some body putty to dings and dents.  What I have gathered from searches is to acid prep before using an epoxy primer.

Do I acid prep after the body putty is sanded or before adding putty?  What do you use for acid prep?

I heard mention of Bulldog adhesion promoter, does this stuff replace the use of acid prep?

Does self etching primer replace the use of an acid prep?

After the primer is on what do you use as a sealer for the primer before spraying your color....
color will be lacquer based spray paint (rattle can)?

thanks

Offline dusterdude

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Re: tank paint prep
« Reply #1 on: April 12, 2006, 11:47:30 AM »
after you bondo,clean the metal surfaces with a cleaner of your choosing.after it dries shoot it with self etching primer,yes it can go over bondo,after that dries shoot it with a sandable primer.after the sanding is done,spray it with a sealer,i think ppg makes a sealer in the spray can.after it is sealed spray your topcoat,i would like to ask why are you using lacquer for the color?
mark
1972 k1 750
1949 fl panhead
1 1/2 gl1100 goldwings
1998 cbr600 f3

Offline Ernest

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Re: tank paint prep
« Reply #2 on: April 12, 2006, 12:06:06 PM »
thanks dude, as for topcoat I just said lacquer based spray paint, obviously not knowing anything about body work or paint, I thought I had read that lacquer based drys immediately on contact which will help preventing any accidents if a bug were to jump up on your paint job.  I could be totally wrong, had just thought I read that.

Please advise if you know of a good rattle can brand that works well.  I think I saw someone post something about plasti cote?

thanks again

Offline Noel

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Re: tank paint prep
« Reply #3 on: April 12, 2006, 12:19:12 PM »
I recently did my tank with DupliColor rattlecans.

Strippped the tank down to bare metal. Sanded the areas that needed bondo with 120 grit. Bondo'd,  feathered with 180. Wiped down the tank with a RepliColor cloth. Sprayed three coats of DupliColor buildable primer, 4 coats of DupliColor red, and four coats of DupliColor clear engine enamel. (The color and the clear aren't technically compatible with each other, but if you spray all coats within an hour of each other it works.)

Let everything dry for seven days, then wet sanded with 1500 grit. For a long, long time. (As an experiment I may someday try 1000 grit to begin with and switch to 1500 after most of the orange peel is removed. Don't know if that will leave scratches or not.)

I sanded until the orange peel was all removed (checking by occasionally wiping the piece with a dry towel) and then polished with McGuier's #9 swirl remover on a power polisher with a Turtle Wax foam pad.

The result was better than I'd hoped; I'm very satisfied. It isn't a showroom finish though. It lacks depth, and it's not very resistant to gas. I did some test pieces and found that the standard DupliColor clearcoat has no resistance to gas, while the engine enamel is a bit better. I still have to hold my hand under the gas nozzle a la Easy Rider.

Most of this stuff came from Chuck Hawk's motorcycle painting FAQ, BTW. Probably worth reading.

Also, I understand Harley sells rattle cans of laquer. I may try that next time, but they aren't cheap.
« Last Edit: April 12, 2006, 12:38:27 PM by Noel »
'73 CB500

Offline dusterdude

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Re: tank paint prep
« Reply #4 on: April 12, 2006, 12:23:47 PM »
yea,lacquer is pretty much mistake proof.
mark
1972 k1 750
1949 fl panhead
1 1/2 gl1100 goldwings
1998 cbr600 f3

Offline Noel

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Re: tank paint prep
« Reply #5 on: April 12, 2006, 12:32:16 PM »
Quote
yea,lacquer is pretty much mistake proof.
Gimme a can and I'll prove you wrong!  :D

Here's a couple of pics of my rattlecan paint job.





(Gotta go to Pep Boys today and find some screws for the front fender. Excuses, excuses.)
'73 CB500

Offline needswork

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Re: tank paint prep
« Reply #6 on: April 12, 2006, 12:36:24 PM »
I've been painting my tank too. I used lacquer on the side panels but I don't like working with it. It is a lot thicker than enamel and takes a lot longer to dry. So I used duplicolor enamel on the tank. I'm not quite finished but I find it easier to work with (much finer mist and dries a lot faster). Except for a couple of rough spots (still some sanding to do, another coat of paint and then clear coat) it's really shaping up nicely. I've applied 4 coats (i think) and sanded between every second coat 180 grit first and moved up to 600 grit. After the next coat I'll go over it with 1000 grit or something like that.

Haha, same colour as Noel.
'78 CB 550K fixer-upper. The bike needs work, I sure don't!

Offline dusterdude

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Re: tank paint prep
« Reply #7 on: April 12, 2006, 01:03:07 PM »
i reckon i should have said,if you manage to screw up lacquer it can be sanded and reshot in about 10 minutes,unlike enamel based paint which takes about forever to dry.
mark
1972 k1 750
1949 fl panhead
1 1/2 gl1100 goldwings
1998 cbr600 f3

Offline hcritz

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Re: tank paint prep
« Reply #8 on: April 12, 2006, 01:24:25 PM »
Hey Guys...
Just had to repair my tank...the DAMN shop broom fell over and whacked the tank...been sitting there for weeks...still don't know why it decided to fall!!! I think EVIL Forces were at work!!!
Anyway...I used rattle can lacquer...dries quickly and buffs nicely because it is so hard...it also cracks and chips easier for the same reasons...
BUT...Lacquer is fairly immune to gasoline...so all the work won't be ruined the first drop of gas that hits it.
Had planned to repaint this winter...so this was just a quickie fix...Looks great though...
This winter I'll get out the paint gun and do it properly...but it's 80 deg and sunny and I want to ride!

Offline TwoTired

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Re: tank paint prep
« Reply #9 on: April 12, 2006, 03:34:26 PM »
Lacquer used to be standard home repaint fare.  Then Kalifornia banned its sale (as well as enamels) as part of the smog control master plan.  I liked lacquer.  You could paint things in the driveway without incorporating the local bug population.  And, any overspray was dust by the time it fell to the ground.  I did find lacquer lacking in durability, though.  Particularly, sunlight caused it to deteriorate much faster than enamels and polyurethanes.  The worst was when I painted the trim on my airplane.  Looked gorgeous for a year, then it dulled, chalked and was pretty nasty the following year.   You could wipe your hand on it and it would come off and leave your hand blue with paint dust.

I lacquerd the front fork lowers clear.  Three years later I had people give me compliments that the yellow forks matched the gold trim in my fairing.  Er, thanks, but it's supposed to look like shiny aluminum.  Now, ten years later the dull yellow lacquer is mottled with some spots on the forks.  Much of it has sublimated away.  Kind of like a yellow and aluminum camoflage pattern that doesn't fit in with any envirnment.

I think if you want a paint job that lasts in the elements, go with enamels or polyurethanes.  Pity they cost way more in materials, safety equipment, and facilities.

Cheers,
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

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Re: tank paint prep
« Reply #10 on: April 13, 2006, 12:55:57 AM »
Tank & Side Cover Colours on a CB750 K 5/6
I have a maroon coloured tank and side colours. I did have the origional paint code but its gone walkabout.
The colour is not a candy apple red.<a href="http://" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="bbc_link bbc_flash_disabled new_win">http://</a> It is definitely a maroon with a full tank flash
Numbers any one?

Thank you
Dave
Australia.
 ;D<a href="http://" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="bbc_link bbc_flash_disabled new_win">http://</a>

Offline SteveD CB500F

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Re: tank paint prep
« Reply #11 on: April 13, 2006, 02:55:30 AM »
You need to work on your formatting a bit Dave...
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howardstapley

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Re: tank paint prep
« Reply #12 on: April 13, 2006, 09:27:00 AM »
Ive done more than a few red neck paint jobs (rattle-rattle) and I always do everything that Noel said but I use bulldog between each step. Does it help? I wouldn’t really no as ive never gone without it but than again ive never had had a paint job look worse than Macco (like that’s a tough act to follow) or peal off two month later and its never cost more than $50  and long weekend.

Offline Bodi

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Re: tank paint prep
« Reply #13 on: April 13, 2006, 09:37:51 AM »
Nothing aginst do-it-yerself... but rattle can paint on a tank sucks. I spend hours and hours painting and sanding and it looks fantastic, then the inevitable gas spill happens and it's buggered.
SO I take the tank to a body shop and they will match any colour with a computer thingy and then spray it with clearcoated gas-proof paint. And for what it costs, I would be paying myself about $3.00 an hour for the time it took me to paint it myself.

Offline Ernest

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Re: tank paint prep
« Reply #14 on: May 03, 2006, 07:46:53 PM »
Got my paint back.  I did all the prep work but ended up paying someone to spray and clear it.  I didn't want to pay that much but I am happy with the results.



I filled in the 750four with fusor leaving just the recessed part for a single badge.




Offline Chris Liston

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Re: tank paint prep
« Reply #15 on: May 03, 2006, 07:57:03 PM »
Sharp paintjob, looks great
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