Topic: cb550 front wheel bearings issue

[xruss]

I'm in the midst of swapping out the front bearings on my 76 cb550.  Got the old ones out with a blind puller.  I popped the first one in on the brake (left) side no problem by hammering it in using the old bearing.  I then slid in the spacer.  I went about the other side (speedo/right) the same way.  The inner ring spins freely on the first installed bearing.  The other is very stiff.  I'm wondering if I somehow installed it too far?  Any thoughts on this?  Can I try backing it out a bit with the puller?

[Lostboy Steve]

I'm pretty sure you're supposed to heat the area?

[Lostboy Steve]

Not with a torch but a heat gun...

[xruss]

Twisted, I think you're talking about getting the bearings out.  I've done that.  I'm just finding one of the new bearings to not move freely, and I'm wondering if I've somehow seated it too firmly.  Any fix?

[OldSchool_IsCool]

When you installed the new bearing, were you careful to exert force to the outer race ONLY?  Pressure or impact to the inner race is a bad thing.

[xruss]

i tapped them in using the old bearing so there was even pressure all the way around. 

[bollingball]

Even pressure good but only on the outside I think you screwed the pooch you don't use the whole (old) bearing just the outside a socket is good for this.

[Van-van]

So, if the floating bearing is driven in too far, will that cause binding? Any fixes?

[OldSchool_IsCool]

If you installed the spacer properly, you should be fine.  The bearings should require a bit of force applied to the outer race only in order to get them in.  Seat the fixed bearing first, then install the spacer, then the "floating" baring tight to the spacer.

did you notice any slop when fitting the bearings?  The should be tight, requiring a bit of force on the outer race only in order to seat them.  If the bearing can be pressed in by hand or simply dropped in, then the bearing is the wrong size or the hub is out of spec.

[CoachDoc]

I'm pretty sure you're supposed to heat the area?

+1 on heating the bearing seat. I keep the new bearing in the freezer. The seat expands, the bearing contracts and they go in easily. I have not had any problems using the old bearing to drive the new the way you did. This should create even pressure on the races and is a widely used method.

[Van-van]

Sadface. I think I drove my bearings in too tight. I can't get them to turn by hand at all.

[Van-van]

Ok, so the bearings are turning freely now, but I feel bumps when I spin the hub. Is this normal?

[DavePhipps]

I did this on my FZR. Bite the bullet and get a new bearing and only tap in on the outer race of the bearing. I used an old socket on mine.
I had the bumpy ride issue too until I replaced the bearing.

[Van-van]

Where did you get sockets that large?

[DavePhipps]

Some funky ASE ones from father in law

[OldSchool_IsCool]

You can get singleton large sockets at most tool vendors.  Harbor Freight comes to mind.  Or you could pick up their bearing driver set for not much coin too. 

[CoachDoc]

Somebody previously posted about buying a plumbing fitting that matched the outer bearing circumference and using that to drive the bearing. Only cost a couple of bucks.