Author Topic: CB750F3 cafe build (Read 13719 times)

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #25 on:** November 11, 2011, 04:37:19 PM »

Quote from: brandEn on November 11, 2011, 04:29:01 PM

I like your paint choice. I have always like white bikes. As for your stud, Retro has it right. I would soak it in some penetrant then hit it with some mapp gas and vice grips.

Maybe even weld a nut onto that last remaining thread of the stud, the heat that comes from welding the stud often helps in getting it out.... If you have some die's you could add a bit more thread to help also....

hapakev · « **Reply #26 on:** November 14, 2011, 03:00:08 PM »

Nice paint on the tins!

KJ790 · « **Reply #27 on:** November 14, 2011, 03:27:40 PM »

Alright, after 2 days of soaking in PB blaster, some heat and a few choice words I got the stud out!

I also made a baffle for my exhaust, it's around 12" long so hopefully it will sound good:

This weekend I rebuilt the front forks, boy did they need it! My seat came in today as well. I laid it on the frame and snapped a teaser pic:

Bgbrnbby · « **Reply #28 on:** November 14, 2011, 03:50:35 PM »

Grr... 78' cb750f... I'm no mechanic. The valve guide issue is messing with me. I have one lined up to see and pick up on Friday. You guys are killing me. Better get a Chilton's and the right tools. Keep up the strong work KJ!

MCRider · « **Reply #29 on:** November 14, 2011, 04:54:01 PM »

Quote from: Bgbrnbby on November 14, 2011, 03:50:35 PM

Grr... 78' cb750f... I'm no mechanic. The valve guide issue is messing with me. I have one lined up to see and pick up on Friday. You guys are killing me. Better get a Chilton's and the right tools. Keep up the strong work KJ!

A 78 below 20,000 miles is probably OK. Somewhere in that range you'll be looking at guides I think. Performance and oil consumption suffer. My understanding is that with the new guide material, rather than using OEMs, the fix is in. Other than tools to remove the engine and head, no point in buying tools for the valve/guide job. I'd suggest getting a pro who's familiar with the 78 to do it.

KJ790 · « **Reply #30 on:** November 20, 2011, 01:48:48 PM »

I cross drilled my rotors (saved over 1/2 lb and looks way better), as well as finished my wheels:

KJ790 · « **Reply #31 on:** November 21, 2011, 04:39:28 PM »

Any tips on getting the motor out by yourself? I know the trick of laying the bike on it's side, but it doesn't have any wheels on it at the moment...

tweakin · « **Reply #32 on:** November 21, 2011, 04:50:25 PM »

Looks good. Great to see all these F's getting new life.

hapakev · « **Reply #33 on:** November 21, 2011, 09:34:27 PM »

Should be even easier to lift off the motor without the weight of the wheels.

KJ790 · « **Reply #34 on:** November 26, 2011, 10:20:47 AM »

Alright, I got the motor out. My brother came over to help me. We tried a few different things and that motor was not going to come out. I finally took all of the exhaust studs out and it slid right out with about 1/16" to spare. Today I did a little work on some of the finer details. I finished the tank emblems and added a little detail to the wheels:

hapakev · « **Reply #35 on:** November 26, 2011, 11:08:25 AM »

Very nice. I like the wheel detail, looks good.

brandEn · « **Reply #36 on:** November 26, 2011, 02:34:49 PM »

Looks good. While the engine is out you should file down that lip on the right hand, lower, forward engine mount. That little lip removed makes it way easier removing and installing the engine. Thats a Hondaman tip...

lucky · « **Reply #37 on:** November 26, 2011, 03:23:49 PM »

It is not your fault the stud broke. It is 25 years old at least. Just corrosion.
Use a little heat and some penetrant. If you have to tack weld a metal bar on there and when it is still hot but not red hot spray with penetrant and try to loosen.

The paint design is simple and looks good.

CAUTION::: Make sure that the stud is not the type that has splines and has been pushed through from the back side. IF it is you can just tap it right out of the hole.
Look on the other side under the rubber cushions.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #38 on:** November 26, 2011, 03:50:45 PM »

Quote

It is not your fault the stud broke. It is 25 years old at least. Just corrosion.

I have had near new heavy duty studs break, it just happens sometimes....

KJ790 · « **Reply #39 on:** December 04, 2011, 08:25:49 AM »

Got the seat from Carpy painted. Here's another gratuitous mock-up teaser pic:

hapakev · « **Reply #40 on:** December 04, 2011, 10:24:28 AM »

Looking good man!

F16Viper68 · « **Reply #41 on:** December 04, 2011, 11:19:21 AM »

Quote from: KJ790 on November 03, 2011, 06:20:56 PM

I'm actually used Rustoleum automotive enamel in a rattle can for the parts pictured. I used the same stuff when I built my last bike 2 years ago and it has held up great, I've spilled gas on it and everything. A lot of people knock the stuff, but with a few tricks you can get pretty good results with it. For the engine I'm going to powdercoat some parts and use high temp engine paint on others.

Could you elaborate on the tricks you used? I need to paint my tank and side covers and really don't want to spend the $$$$$ to have someone do it.

Dave...

KJ790 · « **Reply #42 on:** December 05, 2011, 01:59:40 PM »

Quote from: F16Viper68 on December 04, 2011, 11:19:21 AM

Quote from: KJ790 on November 03, 2011, 06:20:56 PM
I'm actually used Rustoleum automotive enamel in a rattle can for the parts pictured. I used the same stuff when I built my last bike 2 years ago and it has held up great, I've spilled gas on it and everything. A lot of people knock the stuff, but with a few tricks you can get pretty good results with it. For the engine I'm going to powdercoat some parts and use high temp engine paint on others.

Could you elaborate on the tricks you used? I need to paint my tank and side covers and really don't want to spend the $$$$$ to have someone do it.

Dave...

Good prep-work is a must. Beyond that, I've found if you put the can in a bucket of warm water for a bit right before you use it then you tend to get a finer spray with a better finish.

F16Viper68 · « **Reply #43 on:** December 05, 2011, 06:27:51 PM »

Quote from: KJ790 on December 05, 2011, 01:59:40 PM

Quote from: F16Viper68 on December 04, 2011, 11:19:21 AM
Quote from: KJ790 on November 03, 2011, 06:20:56 PM
I'm actually used Rustoleum automotive enamel in a rattle can for the parts pictured. I used the same stuff when I built my last bike 2 years ago and it has held up great, I've spilled gas on it and everything. A lot of people knock the stuff, but with a few tricks you can get pretty good results with it. For the engine I'm going to powdercoat some parts and use high temp engine paint on others.

Could you elaborate on the tricks you used? I need to paint my tank and side covers and really don't want to spend the $$$$$ to have someone do it.

Dave...

Good prep-work is a must. Beyond that, I've found if you put the can in a bucket of warm water for a bit right before you use it then you tend to get a finer spray with a better finish.

Are you sanding between coats or applying a clear coat?

Dave...

KJ790 · « **Reply #44 on:** December 05, 2011, 07:07:05 PM »

Quote from: F16Viper68 on December 05, 2011, 06:27:51 PM

Quote from: KJ790 on December 05, 2011, 01:59:40 PM
Quote from: F16Viper68 on December 04, 2011, 11:19:21 AM
Quote from: KJ790 on November 03, 2011, 06:20:56 PM
I'm actually used Rustoleum automotive enamel in a rattle can for the parts pictured. I used the same stuff when I built my last bike 2 years ago and it has held up great, I've spilled gas on it and everything. A lot of people knock the stuff, but with a few tricks you can get pretty good results with it. For the engine I'm going to powdercoat some parts and use high temp engine paint on others.

Could you elaborate on the tricks you used? I need to paint my tank and side covers and really don't want to spend the $$$$$ to have someone do it.

Dave...

Good prep-work is a must. Beyond that, I've found if you put the can in a bucket of warm water for a bit right before you use it then you tend to get a finer spray with a better finish.

Are you sanding between coats or applying a clear coat?

Dave...

If the coat has completely cured then I will sand lightly before the next coat. After I got the colors on I let them completely cure, then put on a few layers of clear. I let that cure, then sanded to smooth out the boundaries between colors, then put on a couple more layers of clear. Once that was cured I buffed and waxed to finish it off.

KJ790 · « **Reply #45 on:** December 14, 2011, 05:34:15 PM »

Got into the motor the other day. The cylinders are off at the machine shop getting bored for the 836 kit. Took the head apart, the valve guides are shot and the valves themselves were pretty mushroomed on top. Came home today to find a box on my doorstep with new valve guides, stainless steel valves, heavy duty studs, MLS gaskets, and a few other goodies.

The ports in this head are pretty poor casting, but they look like they should perform pretty well with a little massaging.

KJ790 · « **Reply #46 on:** December 23, 2011, 03:04:59 PM »

Got the cylinders all bored, and started work on the head. Got it all cleaned up, new guides honed to the new valves, cut the valve seats, and shaved 0.060" off the head. Threw it together with some clay on the new pistons to make sure I measured everything right, everything looks great as far as valve-piston clearance. Just CC'd the head and it looks like I'm gonna be sitting somewhere around 9.7:1 compression with the flat top ebay pistons once I finish deshrouding the valves and adding a quench band. Now to start working the head a little bit.

KJ790 · « **Reply #47 on:** February 08, 2012, 02:13:42 PM »

Well it's been a while, but I've finally made some progress again. I ported the head and put in new stainless steel valves. I painted everything up and put it all together. The engine is all ready to go back into the frame:

Vbled1 · « **Reply #48 on:** February 08, 2012, 05:41:26 PM »

paint looks awesome and i like that seat. Going to look great with that black motor in there. are the points and clutch cover going to be black also?

KJ790 · « **Reply #49 on:** February 10, 2012, 04:13:21 AM »

I haven't decided yet. I have a set of chrome points and clutch covers that are in great shape, so I may throw them on for now and leave them chrome. I figure those are easy to change later on if I don't like them.

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Author Topic: CB750F3 cafe build (Read 13719 times)