Topic: Craftsman toolbox locked itself ... with the keys in it!

[iron_worker]

So I was working away last night. I had the lower triple clamp up on top of one of my roll-out toolboxes like this (it came with a foam pad for the top so it is intended to be a work surface):

http://www.sears.ca/product/craftsman-md-garage-5-drawer-workbench-module/609-000689000-10139

I went to start putting my tools away and found that somehow the box had locked itself!!! With the keys inside because I had no intention of ever locking it (it sits in my 3rd floor condo spare bedroom).

How can I open my toolbox without wrecking it? (it's only like a month old) The key mechanism is in the front but I believe the actual locking rods go all the way to the back ... and the box is spot welded construction I believe. Arg!!!

Help!

*edit* I guess this may not be the place for this but it happened while working on my 1974 CB750 K4 so maybe it's excusable. lol *edit*

IW

[BobbyR]

Go on youtube or indestructables and they have a lot of lockpicking tutorials.

[70CB750]

You can get lock picks from places like NorthenTool and equipment - or just call locksmith. 

Or call Sears, there must be a way to identify the lock insert - and you can buy new key and be done with it.

After that, tape your new key to the bottom of the chest as a backup:)

[brandEn]

You might be able to turn the lock enough to open the drawer with a screwdriver. I doubt its fully locked. This has happened to me and coworkers many many times.

[iron_worker]

So here is what I think happened...

The key mechanism turns a what we will call a lock rod that runs to the back of the box and has a cam on the end of it. A locking bar sits vertically at the back of the box and rides on the cam. When the key is turned into the lock position the cam lowers the locking bar. The "hooks" on the locking bar engage the back wall of each of the boxes and thus not allowing them to be opened. When the key is returned to the locked position the cam raises the lock bar and the "hooks" are therefore raised again and allow the boxes to travel freely.

Since my key position has not moved I believe my locking bar somehow fell off of the cam and gravity has pulled it down into the locked position. I believe if I put the box upside down (and make a huge mess inside) the lock bar may disengage ...

I will have to remove some drawers from my other similar toolbox to verify that I am correct how the locking mechanism works.

Otherwise I'll be drilling the lock and or cutting a hole in the back of the box. D'oh!

IW

[BobbyR]

Oh Pick the lock, it will be fun. It is not like a fancy one. Drilling and all the stuff is way tooo crude.

[DustyRags]

Agreed. That's (almost certainly) a dead simple lock. Pick it! You can find tutorials all over for that sort of thing.

[onepieceatatime]

Picking it should be simple, or you could give us the key code, it should be stamped into the face of the lock, and maybe someone here has a key that would fit. I doubt that the lock mechanisms inside a new tool box failed like that. another thing to try, is to make sure all of the drawers are pushed all the way in. Some tool boxes, not sure if yours is one or not, latch the other drawers when one is out to keep from tiping the box over.

[78 k550]

try and hook it with a hanger or try a magnet. Just putting things out there.

Paul

[iron_worker]

Well you guys were right ... I was wrong. I flipped the damn thing over and made a hell of a mess but the drawers did not unlock. I really thought since I had not used the key to lock it that the lock bar must have come off.... turns out the lock bar must have enough weight that with enough beating/shaking/jarring on top of the box it will eventually work it's way down into the locked position.

I also found out that my box has two little port holes in the top corners on the back so if I had not flipped the box upside down I probably could have reached in with a magnet and grabbed the keys out ... but the keys of course made their way down to another drawer during the tumble.

I used a copper nail with the end smashed flat and a 90 degree bend in it to torque the lock and mini screw driver to pick the tumblers. Once I made the "tool" to do it with it took all of 30seconds to pick the lock. Super easy.

IW

[BobbyR]

Well you guys were right ... I was wrong. I flipped the damn thing over and made a hell of a mess but the drawers did not unlock. I really thought since I had not used the key to lock it that the lock bar must have come off.... turns out the lock bar must have enough weight that with enough beating/shaking/jarring on top of the box it will eventually work it's way down into the locked position.

I also found out that my box has two little port holes in the top corners on the back so if I had not flipped the box upside down I probably could have reached in with a magnet and grabbed the keys out ... but the keys of course made their way down to another drawer during the tumble.

I used a copper nail with the end smashed flat and a 90 degree bend in it to torque the lock and mini screw driver to pick the tumblers. Once I made the "tool" to do it with it took all of 30seconds to pick the lock. Super easy.

IW

A maketable skill. 

[DustyRags]

So, uh, I have this really nice K0 750. It's parked in my, um, friend's garage but I, I mean he, lost the key. Could you come over and help unlock it for me? I mean us? Oh, and I work late, so, like, 1:00 in the morning would be good...

[Magilla]

To pick your lock:

You have a wafer lock and that is the easiest type to pick.  Pin locks are a little bit harder.  You will need two heavy duty paperclips.  The first one needs to be bent so you put torque on the lock.  Not a lot of torque but enough to hold the wafers in place.  With that one in place and with torque on it you need to have the second paper clip opened up to a straight piece of metal with a slight hook on one end.  Put that paperclip all the way into the lock and scrape it up against the roof of the lock.  This will cause the wafers to pup up into the correct position and they Will be held there because you have the first clip holding torque on the lock.  Scape the straight one up against the top of the lock a few times and it should put all the wafers into the correct position (my guess is there are 3 or 4 wafers total).  Then your lock with twist open.

Its all pretty easy and should only take you under a minute.  Also it will not cause any damage to your lock.

One other thing, when applying torque make sure you are twisting in the direction of "unlock".

[Don R]

One of my employees locked our keys in a gangbox. Out of desperation I borrowed a battery drill and a bit. I drilled the center of that masterlock cylinder in less than a minute. Popped right open. I was not impressed.