Author Topic: 1979 CB650 About to be started (Read 11893 times)

trueblue · « **Reply #50 on:** December 30, 2012, 10:37:06 PM »

I wouldn't, the 650's should have o-ring chains on them. If the molasses gets into the links, it could cause some issues.

dave500 · « **Reply #51 on:** December 31, 2012, 12:15:49 AM »

ive noticed that chain in photos and its toast,,this place local on the coast has good prices on chains,you can walk in and buy aswell,you can also ring david silvers direct to cancel orders!a six minute call cost me $1.80 to cancel once,the email system wouldve been to slow.
https://www.slipstreamperformance.com.au/store/index.php?cPath=701&osCsid=c46d59f230a44d1f8150811dd563d9f4

trueblue · « **Reply #52 on:** December 31, 2012, 12:38:42 AM »

I have an EK x-ring chain on my bike, I have done about 8000km on the chain and haven't had to adjust it yet. It gets a squirt of lube about every 500km, and that is it. When you put on a new chain, treat the old girl to a new set of sprockets. The chain will last twice as long

.

scunny · « **Reply #53 on:** December 31, 2012, 05:08:31 AM »

just for your entertainment since you are finding out the joys of carbs.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=39042.0

trueblue · « **Reply #54 on:** January 01, 2013, 12:49:03 AM »

When you have your gauges apart, consider an upgrade to electronic, there is a link to how I did these in my signature

.

trueblue · « **Reply #55 on:** January 01, 2013, 02:18:26 AM »

I used the 750/550 style indicators because I don't like the big ugly square ones they put on the 650's.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #56 on:** January 02, 2013, 01:48:54 AM »

Quote from: wolfsbane on January 02, 2013, 12:50:08 AM

Quote from: Retro Rocket on December 24, 2012, 01:20:27 AM
Keep trying....
hahahah i did and he has come to his senses will get it this weekend (evil grin ) will make this build so much easier.

and one want to buy a running sr250 need the room in the shed LOL

Good stuff....

dave500 · « **Reply #57 on:** January 05, 2013, 01:07:43 AM »

its good to have as many of the model bike your doing up.

trueblue · « **Reply #58 on:** January 05, 2013, 02:30:56 AM »

Oh good, you picked up my new bike for me

trueblue · « **Reply #59 on:** January 05, 2013, 03:21:58 AM »

Always after another 650

, but no cash atm. I've had no work for 2 months $:-\$ . Although I'm getting in trouble for having too many bikes in the shed. I only have 9.

trueblue · « **Reply #60 on:** January 05, 2013, 03:49:19 AM »

Tell you what, I'll buy the blue one off you for you triple what you paid

. I paid $650 for mine originally, which is the most I paid for any of them other than my missus' virago. If any bikes come up that are freebees or near to, that you don't want, let me know

.

trueblue · « **Reply #61 on:** January 05, 2013, 06:06:26 PM »

In behind the right cover there is a mechanical advance mechanism, pull it apart, clean and lube it. Take good note of how it goes together, because it can go together backwards. If it isn't the problem, it is a good idea to do anyway. The other thing to do is set your timing up and set the rotor to pick-up clearance. If this is out it makes a huge difference. The lack of airbox wouldn't be helping things either. But I would start with the ignition. Sounds like you have a good clutch rattle there too, when it comes to adjusting the tappets and syncronising the carbs you can't get them too perfect. I have a habit of going over things 3 or 4 times till I'm happy with them. Once they are properly synced they become rather quiet

.

trueblue · « **Reply #62 on:** January 05, 2013, 06:21:14 PM »

No points in the 650's

. They are really easy to set up. They have an inductive pick-up

. I have the clymers manual, it has a good write-up on how to set them up. When you take the side cover off, pull the pick-up plate off, then undo the 10mm nut in the centre. Mark it all with a nikko then pull it apart and clean it, lube it and reassemble.

trueblue · « **Reply #63 on:** January 05, 2013, 06:38:14 PM »

I set my timing up using the static method, and then put a timing light on it, and it was bang on. It should line up on the F mark (fig 105) at idle and the advance lines (fig 104) when you rev it up.

This note says it applies only to the 650C, but it applies to all SOHC 650 models

trueblue · « **Reply #64 on:** January 05, 2013, 08:29:18 PM »

Yep that's the bit. Remove the 3 Phillips head screws the the pickup plate will come off, then remove the 10mm nut in the middle and the advancer will come off the end of the crank.

trueblue · « **Reply #65 on:** January 06, 2013, 12:08:03 AM »

Depends on the finish you are after. It only took me a few hours to strip mine back to a bare frame. Then it was sand blasted, painted with a catalysed acrylic, then it was clear coated. There was about 8 hrs just in painting the frame. My engine just had a quick degrease and rattle can engine paint, it will be coming out at a later date to be done properly. If you only want a quick spruce up, you could just use rattle can paint and have the job done in a weekend. Though I would strip the bike and paint the frame on Saturday morning, degrease the engine Saturday afternoon, paint engine Sunday morning, sit back with a beer or three Sunday arvo. Then I would reassemble it the next weekend, just to give the paint some time to harden a little. You should have no trouble getting it done in a couple of weekends.

trueblue · « **Reply #66 on:** January 06, 2013, 12:26:46 AM »

Quote from: wolfsbane on January 05, 2013, 11:53:52 PM

oh and would it be worth a bike for some one to do it ?
(evil grin) cb650 no 2

It would be worth it to me, if you could get it to me. I should be able to arrange something

.

trueblue · « **Reply #67 on:** January 06, 2013, 01:21:42 AM »

They become addictive, that's for sure. They aren't that hard to put back together

, if I was a little closer I would be round to help out in a flash

. I understand what you are saying, I spent nearly 4 months putting mine back together, partly because I was saving the cash and partly because I was changing things here and there till I was happy with how it looked

.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #68 on:** January 06, 2013, 01:44:04 PM »

I would be looking elsewhere for the Revs problem mate, those mufflers won't cause it...

Clean up the advance mechanism under the ignition cover as Trueblue suggested, then onto the carbs...

trueblue · « **Reply #69 on:** January 06, 2013, 04:40:17 PM »

They almost look like catalytic converters

. Just be grateful you don't have the PO I had, here's what he did with the cam chain in my bike.

rb550four · « **Reply #70 on:** January 06, 2013, 04:51:43 PM »

Can you imagine the language that must have been coming out of your PO's garage the day that happened?

trueblue · « **Reply #71 on:** January 06, 2013, 04:55:42 PM »

I still can't fathom the logic behind it

. He didn't release the cam chain tensioner and added an extra link to make up the extra length $:-\$ .

trueblue · « **Reply #72 on:** January 08, 2013, 03:37:06 AM »

$1 down $1 a week

dave500 · « **Reply #73 on:** January 08, 2013, 11:57:46 PM »

put a grease nipple in the pipe thread hole and pump it out with a grease gun.

trueblue · « **Reply #74 on:** January 09, 2013, 12:34:32 AM »

You can usually just remove the chuck from the grease gun and gently start the threaded end of the hose into the inlet to the caliper, be gentle doing so, you can damage the threads because they don't match. When I screw it in I don't use any tools and have never had any trouble.

News:

Author Topic: 1979 CB650 About to be started (Read 11893 times)