Topic: cb550 wiring: gauges and lengths

[sweet_baby_james]

I am relocating the electrical panel on my 78 550K underneath the seat.  Since the new location is very close to the original location, the majority of the wiring on the harness and from the components is usable at the existing length.  Except for the block connector that is connected to the alternator, neutral indicator and oil pump.  These wires need to be about 12” longer.  So, what is the best way to accomplish this? My initial though was to cut the wires and insert an additional length and solder, but  I've heard some people saying that soldering can become brittle over time but to me that seems like a more robust option that using bullet connectors or similar.  Also, what gauge wires are these? And what number of strands? 

I recall seeing a color coded wiring diagram around here somewhere that I think had the wire gauges called out but I can’t find it any more.

Thanks

[Vinhead1957]

Soldering makes wire brittle at the connection because it makes it solid. If the connection is not in an area where the flex is needed then it is the most reliable mechanical connection.  Crimp connections still add rigidity to the connection be add the problem of corrosion. We've had marine applications where crimp connector were used and a lot time trouble shooting was bad connections. If you use them, use shrinkwrap to provide a good seal around the connection from the elements. 

[sweet_baby_james]

Thanks.  I'll go the soldering route I think.

Any body help me out on the wire gauge etc??

Thanks

[Vinhead1957]

When I was in Telecom manufacturing we had some great heat shrink with solder built in. You would shrink and solder at the same time, very neat connection. Mind you though, we used 22  24 gauge solid wire.

[CapeCafe]

I am just finishing the same type of project on my 76 550.  I twisted and shrink wrapped, twisted, soldered and shrink wrapped and I finally went to Z1 and ordered a bunch of the original brass type 1/4 blade connectors and bullet connectors.  This allowed me to replace at the connector with the blades and I used a marine grade shrink connector at all my splices (which I worked hard to keep to a minimum).  I ended up doing a lot more than just making a few wires longer, but it was important to me that the job looked professional as well as bullet proof and functional.  I used 18 guage for most and 16 guage for the ground (Grn) and positive (blk).  I replaced the ground and positive all the way through the harness.  Also, when you make your new battery cables i would suggest going to west marine if you have one nearby.  The have inexpensive 8 guage battery cables and the commercial crimper to secure your connectors.  Total cost was like $6.

[wowbagger]

These guys also have most of the wire colors and patterns you'll need and only charge $0.20 a foot:
http://www.riwire.com/Catalogs/sup/pages/wire.htm