Author Topic: 1976 CB550 build (Read 10787 times)

calj737 · « **Reply #25 on:** October 29, 2014, 06:30:40 PM »

Yup, Devin's mounts don't work on an F frame. You can use the same principle though and make some from aluminum. His/yours can use the motor mount and swing arm bolt and then travel back to a single thru hole. Or, you could install the rear set peg in the passenger hole. The shift/brake linkage rod then becomes the "locator" for the toe peg.

Use the brake cam in the stock location (splined brake cam) and install a return spring from the cam to the frame.

Slinky · « **Reply #26 on:** October 29, 2014, 06:44:03 PM »

Just can't believe I spent $75 on them mounts and can't use. And there has to be a return spring?

calj737 · « **Reply #27 on:** October 29, 2014, 08:08:39 PM »

I'm sure Devin would return them.

The brake return spring is a safety issue. Drum brakes want some "resistance" to force the pedal to release the drum shoes. Without it, it's possible that the brake remains engaged despite releasing the foot pedal.

Carny cafe · « **Reply #28 on:** October 30, 2014, 02:24:27 PM »

Yeah I got a 1975 550F and my mounts fit perfectly. All I had to do was shim with spacers and that's just because I was particular about. Not sure if the year difference would be a huge difference. Also, calj, thanks again for the help with m-unit!

Devin is a great guy and the products I have purchased from him are great as well.

calj737 · « **Reply #29 on:** October 30, 2014, 03:06:22 PM »

Slinky · « **Reply #30 on:** October 30, 2014, 04:25:48 PM »

Carny you have any pics of that!! It'd be much appreciated!!

Carny cafe · « **Reply #31 on:** October 30, 2014, 04:30:26 PM »

Here you go! Got lucky I was gonna coat my tank but she's still drying. They bolt to the swing arm bolt and the engine mount bolt. You need to cut the static frame mounted bolt off the frame for it to fit I believe. Have a look. You can see where the bolt was where the flat grinder spot is.

Slinky · « **Reply #32 on:** October 30, 2014, 04:34:56 PM »

yes.... but right behind that bolt you ground off was the mount for the brake spline... that you must have removed because its not in your picture,... you don't use a return spring?

Carny cafe · « **Reply #33 on:** October 30, 2014, 04:38:06 PM »

I do. You need to get the bracket for the rear drum from Devine at cognito moto. You just use the old spring mount and attach it to his bracket adaptor.

Slinky · « **Reply #34 on:** October 30, 2014, 05:04:45 PM »

Quote from: Slinky on October 29, 2014, 06:25:25 PM

Here's my mounts

Yes but you see the rear splne is what is in the way,... so It looks like I can just cut it off and use that for the return spring?

Carny cafe · « **Reply #35 on:** October 30, 2014, 05:30:51 PM »

This is what you need. It will attach the stock spring to one end and the drum break line to the other. Here is a pick of mine as well with the setup. I am pointing at where to attach the spring.

Carny cafe · « **Reply #36 on:** October 30, 2014, 05:32:03 PM »

Hopefully I'm being helpful here and not making things worse. $:-\$

Slinky · « **Reply #37 on:** October 30, 2014, 05:42:20 PM »

haha thanks for the pics man make a lot more sense, but only question I still have is... You cut of the factory brake spline holder right?? Cause I don't see it there and that is the only thing holding me back from cutting mine off.

Carny cafe · « **Reply #38 on:** October 30, 2014, 05:49:23 PM »

Yes it's cut off. It gets in the way of the bracket and rearset. That's why you need the cognito adaptor.
It's offset so you won't have a bent rod activating the drum brake and allows a more linear force of the spring instead of adding force on an diagonal direction.

Slinky · « **Reply #39 on:** October 30, 2014, 05:59:51 PM »

Awesome that is all I was stuck on!! I'm excited to get cutting and put these on!! haah

Slinky · « **Reply #40 on:** October 30, 2014, 06:01:32 PM »

while we are here, any suggestion on turn signals? Since they "thread" on.. need some smaller ones

Carny cafe · « **Reply #41 on:** October 30, 2014, 06:09:13 PM »

Lol happy cutting and grinding smooth!!! Turn signals... Any aftermarket one really. Hard the say because it really depends on the look of your bike. Most of them have the same thread so really you should be able to buy whatever you'd like. If it doesn't fit just use the bolt supplied or drill out and tap the hole or again, use the bolt supplied. That said sometimes wiri can be funky due to American style wiring and Japanese style wiring.

Slinky · « **Reply #42 on:** October 30, 2014, 06:52:40 PM »

Yeh I just hate how the ground wires are used in the stock headlight bucket. stupid

Slinky · « **Reply #43 on:** October 31, 2014, 02:29:18 PM »

Can anyone tell me if this green dual outlet wire does anything?? Also does it look like my headlight is wired up right? ( green/blue/white)

calj737 · « **Reply #44 on:** October 31, 2014, 02:36:36 PM »

A bit hard to tell from the picture...

I will recommend you extend the headlight ground from the inside of the bucket to the frame beyond the triple tree. This helps a lot with eliminating the steering bearings from current being passed thru the bearings.

Slinky · « **Reply #45 on:** October 31, 2014, 03:21:26 PM »

Sweet, I think I have no power to headlight because my right hand switch. The insides melted apart and was covered on brake fluid. Starter button works once in a blue
Moon. Not looking to spend $70 on a new switch if it's not the issue

Slinky · « **Reply #46 on:** October 31, 2014, 03:23:52 PM »

There has to be a way to bypass that, I don't plan on using the starter anyways

calj737 · « **Reply #47 on:** October 31, 2014, 08:58:57 PM »

Power to headlight should be coming from left side switch, not right. Here's a color coded wiring diagram to help.

Primary function of right side is KILL/RUN switch. That has to work else no power to coils. The YELLOW/RED wire is the electric start button.

Cognito sells a decent metal housing replacement switch for $48 that I use on my 550. Takes a bit of wiring as colors differ, but it's vintage in appearance and much better than the crappy Emgo units.

Slinky · « **Reply #48 on:** November 01, 2014, 08:25:57 AM »

Yeh, i'll check it out again.. I know its hard to find a wiring diagram for the F, which of course is different

Slinky · « **Reply #49 on:** November 01, 2014, 08:44:32 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on October 31, 2014, 08:58:57 PM

Power to headlight should be coming from left side switch, not right. Here's a color coded wiring diagram to help.

Primary function of right side is KILL/RUN switch. That has to work else no power to coils. The YELLOW/RED wire is the electric start button.

Cognito sells a decent metal housing replacement switch for $48 that I use on my 550. Takes a bit of wiring as colors differ, but it's vintage in appearance and much better than the crappy Emgo units.

But what I mean is the starter button kills headlight when you press it to help the battery. So basically when that switch melts it kills power to your headlight.. replace switch and presto... at least that's what I've been reading

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Author Topic: 1976 CB550 build (Read 10787 times)