Author Topic: Anyone have a CAD file (or dimensions) of the CB350F Bar Risers Bolt Pattern?  (Read 687 times)

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Offline sbeckman7

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I will be purchasing a Cognito Motorsport top triple for my CB350F but I want to retain bars using the OEM bar clamp/light panel.  For this reason I need to supply Cognito with the bolt patter of the clamp itself, and since a few forum members here have mentioned they have CAD models etc. I was hoping someone might be able to send me one?  Or just the bolt pattern if you know it  ;D

Spence

Offline sbeckman7

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Was I dreaming when I thought people had this info?

Offline calj737

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Just send him the clamp from your stock bars. Or send him your stock top clamp altogether. Or both.
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"Of all tyrannies, a tyranny sincerely exercised for the good of it's victim may be the most oppressive. It may be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his cupidity may at some point be satiated, but those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end for they do so with the approval of their own conscience." - C.S. Lewis

Offline 754

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Or measure it with a metric tape, ruler or caliper..
 It will be nominal, and stick a handlebar in to measure offset.
 You may want to change bar offset if you would like to he able to slide your forks up..
Maker of the WELDLESS 750 Frame Kit
dodogas99@gmail.com
Kelowna B.C.       Canada

My next bike will be a ..ANFOB.....

It's All part of the ADVENTURE...

73 836cc.. Green, had it for 3 decades!!
Lost quite a few CB 750's along the way

Offline sbeckman7

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Alright, hopefully they won't have a problem with that. I don't see why they would

Offline calj737

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He won't. Tell him I said to do it that way if he gives you any grief. He's a very good buddy of mine, and an absolute top notch guy!

FYI - Almost all bar clamps use pretty similar spacing on bikes of this model. They may be off slightly here or there. But you could essentially have a "lower riser" milled to receive the upper, then it uses a single stud to pass through the upper tree with a single hole, bolted from below. This would be less expensive for you (less milling, less material) and far easier to locate the bar clamps exactly where you want.

You're essentially making a "riser" that is drilled for your stock bar clamp, right? Depending upon the style of top tree you have made, you need to verify tank clearance, and gauge fitment. With a separate bar riser/clamp, you can position the bars slightly more forward to clear the tank, create visibility to your gauges, etc... If everything but the top tree is stock, then its pretty simple really to replicate with a new billet tree. But be mindful about where the forks pinch, and the clearance on the tank from the underside of the top tree. Billet will be much thicker, and you don't want to rub your tank  :)
'74 550 Build http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=126401.0
'73 500 Build http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=132935.0

"Of all tyrannies, a tyranny sincerely exercised for the good of it's victim may be the most oppressive. It may be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his cupidity may at some point be satiated, but those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end for they do so with the approval of their own conscience." - C.S. Lewis

Offline sbeckman7

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He won't. Tell him I said to do it that way if he gives you any grief. He's a very good buddy of mine, and an absolute top notch guy!

FYI - Almost all bar clamps use pretty similar spacing on bikes of this model. They may be off slightly here or there. But you could essentially have a "lower riser" milled to receive the upper, then it uses a single stud to pass through the upper tree with a single hole, bolted from below. This would be less expensive for you (less milling, less material) and far easier to locate the bar clamps exactly where you want.

You're essentially making a "riser" that is drilled for your stock bar clamp, right? Depending upon the style of top tree you have made, you need to verify tank clearance, and gauge fitment. With a separate bar riser/clamp, you can position the bars slightly more forward to clear the tank, create visibility to your gauges, etc... If everything but the top tree is stock, then its pretty simple really to replicate with a new billet tree. But be mindful about where the forks pinch, and the clearance on the tank from the underside of the top tree. Billet will be much thicker, and you don't want to rub your tank  :)

Ha! Ok glad to know a guy who knows a guy  ;D  Thinking about giving my stock triple a weld-repair and seeing how it holds up with these mysterious D-washers that I have yet to source (or even see for that matter!).

Offline 754

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Many custom trees simply have 2 holes for bar mounts.. Often 3.5 inch apart . You can use the cb350 and 450 risers.. Think the light bar clamp will work with them .. In that case measure the long distance between bolts and get him to drill that pattern
Maker of the WELDLESS 750 Frame Kit
dodogas99@gmail.com
Kelowna B.C.       Canada

My next bike will be a ..ANFOB.....

It's All part of the ADVENTURE...

73 836cc.. Green, had it for 3 decades!!
Lost quite a few CB 750's along the way