Author Topic: 76 cb550f lowbuck build "done" (Read 35764 times)

Garystratos201 · « **Reply #100 on:** October 30, 2012, 08:16:32 am »

Looks good............Gary

Seabass · « **Reply #101 on:** November 05, 2012, 05:31:19 am »

Started working on cutting out a piece if aluminum for a oil gauge,key start,And switches.Just a rough cut now.Im planning on contouring around the gauges and smoothing out the edges.

Seabass · « **Reply #102 on:** December 04, 2012, 07:13:45 am »

Received a couple parts in the mail. Dyna ignition and a shorty clutch lever.Install went smooth as expected since both are a pretty much bolt ons .I did get a chance to start it up. Ran great with some tweaking of the timing and carb adjustments. Unfortunatly it started pouring oil out the left side below the valve cover and above the head gasket then I realized I did a bonehead move and neglected to use gasket sealer to seal up the small rubber pucks that cover the head bolts.I since remedied the problem but had to remove the valve cover and place an order for a new valve cover gasket to ensure I don't have to do it any time soon.But as soon as its bolted up I will upload a video.

Seabass · « **Reply #103 on:** December 10, 2012, 07:09:18 am »

Well upon further inspection I noticed a busted flange on the rocker cover.I must have over tightened the Allen bolt.I have heard that this is a concern with the Allen fasteners especially concerning the cam towers that it is easy to over tighten them.I was using a t Allen and must not know my own strength.Next time I will do it right and use my torque wrench.I fortunately have a spare motor that I can use the rocker cover from.So the moral of this story is if life gives you lemons get out the polisher.

Seabass · « **Reply #104 on:** December 29, 2012, 09:09:55 am »

Purchased a set of Viton valve seals. So while I have the rocker cover off I figured its a good idea to put them in. I use a Low budget easy method that works well for me.Here are the steps I use to replace the old dried out seals with the head on and without a valve spring compressor.
Step # 1- Bring the piston down to the bottom of the stroke.
Step #2 - Remove spark plug
Step #3 - Insert as much as possible nylon rope into cylinder through the spark plug hole.

Step #4 - Slowly bring piston to top of stroke until solid resistance is felt.
Step #5 - This is the technique I use since I do not have a valve spring compressor that works with the tight clearances on the cb550 head.I use a long box end wrench and I position one side around the keepers on top if valve spring and the other side wedged against my hip/ thigh area and compress with my palm. My other hand holds a magnet that pulls the keepers out once the the spring is compressed.

Step #6 - Remove outer and inner springs and keep in order so top and bottom do not get reversed . And remove old seal with needle nose pliers.
Step # 7 - Replace seal and spring and retainer plate and load retainers into the plate.Compress using box wrench technique and a finger on top of retainers to press them into place and your done.

I also coat them with oil and a dab of cam install lube in the top of the valve to help reduce friction on start up. Here some pics.This works for me ,someday I will shell out the cash for a proper tool or make one but for now this has worked fairly well.

Seabass · « **Reply #105 on:** February 01, 2013, 12:07:18 pm »

Finished up a few little things here and there. Got the new valve seals in and buttoned up the rocker cover.Also finishing up the key / oil pressure gauge panel.Last couple weeks we have had a fair share of snow and freezing cold so the projects I've been working on have been short ones to prevent frostbite from setting in. The older I get the more I hate the cold.I also pulled the trigger on a sweet set of velocity stacks. Velocity stacks are kinda of like the hot crazy girl in school that your friends tell you not to mess with but you just can't resist the temptation.

Bru-tom · « **Reply #106 on:** February 05, 2013, 09:48:20 am »

very nice build mate! love the stacks!!! they must have cost a few bucks hey! i am also looking for a set, where did you get yours from if i may ask?

Seabass · « **Reply #107 on:** February 10, 2013, 07:44:14 am »

Thanks I appreciate the kind words. Got the stacks from dime city cycles for around $70 .I had a gift card burning a hole In my pocket and couldn't resist . They're customer service is top notch too . I have a carb synch some jets and depending I the day some patience so ill be spending some time tuning but it will in the long run worth it " I hope ". Im way past the time that I was hoping to be done with the build so now I'm just focusing on getting it done right at least to my standards.

iron_worker · « **Reply #108 on:** February 11, 2013, 09:18:13 am »

Good luck with the tuning. Make sure you go in with your patience levels "full". lol

IW

Seabass · « **Reply #109 on:** March 31, 2013, 11:00:32 am »

Been keeping busy with the wiring harnes.every thing is done but turn signals. I used two block terminals for the grounds and 12v switch and inline fuses.It keeps it clean and trouble shooting in the future easy.I also finished up with the oil pressure guage plumbing and tapping of the oil plug. Im going to try Summit for some flexible braided line .I had to remove the carbs for tuning and relized the 3 carb is leaking fuel from the mainjet due to corrosion . Luckily I have a spare set if carbs that I swaped the 3 carb from.Waiting on jets to arrive and get the carbs dialed in before my first test ride.Im working on the seat pad now cut the foam from a kneeling pad frome home depot and cut the wood . Im going to wrap it with some black marine vinyl.

Seabass · « **Reply #110 on:** April 12, 2013, 11:04:28 am »

Bike is running good with 105 mains right now but is having issues on idle.I sprayed some carb cleaner around the boots and getting sone rpm fluctuations. I ordered dome new boots and manifold o rings and hopefull that it will cure the eradic idle.That adds another $62 bucks to my total plus the $25 for jets.If someone has a #40 pilot jet laying around let me know I ll be more than happy to take it off your hands.

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iron_worker · « **Reply #111 on:** April 12, 2013, 11:39:23 am »

I like your electrical distribution system. When I had considered building my own I had similar ideas of using hard mounted distribution blocks to clean things up / ease diagnostics.

IW

Seabass · « **Reply #112 on:** April 12, 2013, 11:56:56 am »

Thanks . Radio shack had the blocks and jumpers for less than $15.They might be out of business soon so Im waiting to see if they have a clearance sale and I ll stock up on misc electrical stuff.I plan on putting a cover or coating the positive terminals just to make sure I dont short something by bumping into a ground.

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DustyRags · « **Reply #113 on:** May 01, 2013, 02:53:50 pm »

Cool build! Makes me miss my old 550

Seabass · « **Reply #114 on:** May 26, 2013, 01:06:56 pm »

Well got the new boots and some #40 slow jets . idle issues are much better a little tweeking here and there and should be good.Feels great being able to ride it around the neighborhood. Ill get a video up soon but I need to figure that out.The wife is insisting I get some plates on it before my luck runs out and I get a ticket. Recently I went to a vintage bike swapmeet here in town put on by ace cycle. Got some great parts for under $30. A master Cylinder and caliper so I can go to dual brakes and I also scored a cool universal aluminum fork brace.All that is really left is paint and seat cover. But im thinking even though this build thread will be over it will never be technically done.Oh yeah and thanks again to forum member MoMo I got a #40 jet for nothing but an exchange for some good karma.[/img]

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davidtime · « **Reply #115 on:** May 26, 2013, 02:35:30 pm »

Nice project. Was your dyna ignition just a plug and play type deal? I have been thinking of adding it to mine.

Seabass · « **Reply #116 on:** May 26, 2013, 07:46:16 pm »

Yep it was super simple.Three wires and swap out the rotor.No more points and condenser to mess with and solid timing.

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db22 · « **Reply #117 on:** May 27, 2013, 06:15:47 am »

Will be following and taking notes.

davidtime · « **Reply #118 on:** May 27, 2013, 01:08:33 pm »

Quote from: Seabass on May 26, 2013, 07:46:16 pm

Yep it was super simple.Three wires and swap out the rotor.No more points and condenser to mess with and solid timing.

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I think I'm sold.

Seabass · « **Reply #119 on:** June 21, 2013, 03:42:15 pm »

As if I needed any more project bikes.I picked up this manufacture date 06/73, 74 cb550k.MOSTLY complete and SLIGHTLY molested. Thinking of getting it running properly and leaving it as is untill I can decide what to do with it.

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Seabass · « **Reply #120 on:** June 30, 2013, 01:39:15 pm »

Here is some photos of the way it is now.I added a old used sparta tailight because, go figure the cheap Chinese ebay special led tailight burned out the leds with maybe ten miles on it.I like the look and now every thing is mostly period correct.Im working on getting the tank straight and prepped for paint.I got insurance and now the fun part of going to dmv and hopefully getting the plates.

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davidtime · « **Reply #121 on:** June 30, 2013, 06:29:34 pm »

Hey Seabass did you have any clearance issues with the screws by the tappet covers on the exhaust side of the valve covers? Mine new allen bolts aren't working.

Seabass · « **Reply #122 on:** June 30, 2013, 07:58:54 pm »

Yes as a matter of fact I did.I thinned the outside edge of the tappet cover just a hair and I remove those allen bolts first before I take off the tappet and vice versa .If you put the tappet cover on first then the bolt it seem to be ok.Its a extra step and kinda of a pain to have to have to remove them every time you need to check your valves. I'm thinking of maybe thinning the head of the bolts just a tad to see if that could give me a little more clearance. Another idea I had was to replace them with a button/dome style head allen.Let me know if you find a solution as well.

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davidtime · « **Reply #123 on:** July 01, 2013, 09:36:54 am »

Quote from: Seabass on June 30, 2013, 07:58:54 pm

Yes as a matter of fact I did.I thinned the outside edge of the tappet cover just a hair and I remove those allen bolts first before I take off the tappet and vice versa .If you put the tappet cover on first then the bolt it seem to be ok.Its a extra step and kinda of a pain to have to have to remove them every time you need to check your valves. I'm thinking of maybe thinning the head of the bolts just a tad to see if that could give me a little more clearance. Another idea I had was to replace them with a button/dome style head allen.Let me know if you find a solution as well.

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I was actually gonna run down to the Home Depot and raid the drawers in the hardware section. I will let you know.

Seabass · « **Reply #124 on:** July 01, 2013, 10:05:13 am »

Funny thing is I work for Crown bolt that is the hardware vendor for the home depot.Some stores in my area do not carry much metric and others do.I like the old mom and pop hardware stores like Ace.They have a lot metric in stainless.Im going to go the same route with the button heads.Hopefully they aren't $3 a piece.

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Author Topic: 76 cb550f lowbuck build "done" (Read 35764 times)