Third time lucky it was
, front wheel rebuild went hunky dory this time and all trued to 0.2mm.
So , here's how I did it .
I used following guides for the wheel building;
[url=http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-wheels/spoke-wheels/]http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-wheels/spoke-wheels/[/url]
http://www.classicbikes.org.uk/ ..... wheel building page
also inspired by these threads in first place:
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=32345.10http://www.therevcounter.com/uk-motorbike-forum/68285-my-cb550-cafe-racer-build-3.html1. Got loads of help from this forum and the UK one
2. Cut the old spokes and rim off the hub
3. Polished outsides of hub and painted centres with etch primer and black epoxy paint (Pic 1, below)
4. Worked out the difference between the two spoke types (Pic 3, below)
5. Put the "B" spokes on the outside of the hub, ie poked them through the holes from the inside of the hub to the outside (see pic 3&4, below. Note that Pic 4 is to show arrangement of the "B" spokes only, I put all spokes on the hub before lacing any of them)
6. Put the "A" spokes on the inside of the hub, ie poked them through the holes from the outside of the hub to the inside (pics 3&5, below Note that Pic 5 is to show arrangement of the "A" & "B" spokes only, I put all spokes on the hub before lacing any of them)
7. When all the spokes were on the hub,(see Pic 6, below) I sat the hub on a table and sat the rim over it and loosely arranged the spokes. Then, laced the A spokes on the speedo side hub to the rim and put the spoke nipples on a couple of turns. Then did the B spokes for the speedo side of the hub, Turn the wheel over, do the "A" spokes for the brake disc side, then the "B" spokes for the brake disc side , again putting the nipples on a couple of turns.. So, all spokes now laced up (see Pic 7, below)
8. Made a truing jig out of an old pair of forks bolted to a work bench. Put the wheel the jig (see Pic 8
9. Went round all nipples taking one off at a time, put a bit of oil on the female nipple thread and a bit of copper grease on the rim nipple seat. Then put the nipple back on and tightened it 10 turns with a cross head screwdriver. Worked round the wheel until all spokes / nipples oiled, greased and tightened 10 turns.
10. Used a dial gauge and spoke wrench (see Pic 9 & 10) to get the wheel true to 0.2mm vertical, then 0.2mm horizontal, then checked vertical again. .....Always starting at biggest high and low points and tightening spokes a turn or so at these points and tightening adjacent spokes half a turn. This was fairly easy, taking about an hour or so to get trued up. (note that its impossible to get the rim true to this degree at the point where the rim weld is)
11. Job Done ... rear wheel next, with added complication of need to offset the hub a bit. But first ... a dram or two
