Topic: First Build: CB550K0 Back From the Dead!!!

[geoluv]

I took her out again today.  Just to ride it around to test the choke in 5th gear.  It made a huge difference, so I'm running lean like I expected.   Also the bike runs pretty good even not choked, disregard my last post, the bike has exactly as much power as it should with the incorrect jets, I am just not very good at shifting motorcycles anymore, having been way from them for 15 years. 

The blinkers work now on both sides, but in a funny way.  The right side will blink slowly and get faster if I rev the engine.  The left side seems to work pretty good but also I notice it get a little faster when I revs it.  Voltage issue?  Probably just a corroded connection somewhere.  I still have not gotten the headlight to work.  I might pay someone to go over the wiring 'cause it's really stumping me. 

The rear tire seemed like it was not aligned well, but the indicators on the dropouts said it was straight.  I slid the right side forward one notch which made the wheel seem straight to me.  This was all by eye mind you.  Is there a home mechanic method for testing the alignment of these frames? 

On bicycles you tie two shoestrings together then tie one to the right rear drop, wrap it around the head tube, then tie the other end to the left drop and make sure the string is tight.  Then you measure the distance between the string and the seat tube on both sides.  You usually don't have to remove anything from the bike.  If both sides measure the same your frame is not bent, but that method does not show if your frame is TWISTED or not.  A twisted frame as opposed to a bent (bowed) frame is when the head tube, seat tubes, and rear wheel are not on the same vertical axis.  It happens from side ways collisions or more commonly from bicycles being stored stacked next to each other in big piles.  The bikes twist each other under the collective weight of the pile. 

Now I'm scared this moto frame is bent.  The bike seemed like it rode pretty straight and true; I took it up to 65mph on some straights.  I can't really feel out the tracking too precisely because I still have the toasted stock headset bearings in the frame, I haven't put in the All Balls kit yet. 

[geoluv]

I received my Euro bars in the mail.  I did not anticipate the inner diameter of the aluminum bars to be so narrow.  I should have ordered steel bars.  I could have ordered bars from a 350 or 360 too and they would be pre-drilled perfectly.  I want a clean look so I decided to go internal anyway.  I had to drill out the bars, that was a huge pain because I did not have drill bits wide enough.  You need a 1/2" drill bit pretty much.  The wires barely cleared and getting the left wire bundle through the bars was one of the most difficult things I have ever done in my life.  I worked it through though, it took a lot of force.  I am slightly concerned I may have damaged the wires from all the force I had to use.

I got it all wired back up as best as I could.  The picture below is of three wires that I can not seem to find the correct connection for.  I have the diagram but the colors of a lot of my wires are faded, and I am also color blind.  If someone can simply tell me what wires those are then I can connect them.  The high been works now but not the normal low beam.  Both didn't work before I pulled and reattached the wires.  Seems like the switch might need a rebuild because if I fiddle with the switch the high been with flicker/cut out.  It stays on fine if i don't fiddle with it so i consider it safe to ride with.  The blinkers both come on if I flip the switch over but they don't blink, they just stay static.  I am pretty happy about the light because now I can work on the bike and take it for test rides at night, not just the day.  It looks super trick with the black Euro bars with the wires internal routed. 

I have another MC but I really want to rebuild the stock one.  Does anyone know a trick for getting the c-clip out of the master cylinder?  Most normal pin spanners aren't long and thin enough to get into the caliper.  Mine MC is pretty rusted up to.  What is the key for getting out the ring clip that is in front of the c-clip also?

I am going to check alignment of the frame today, pretty concerned that the frame or swing arm or something is bent.  When I have the chain properly tightened and the wheel at the correct marks it just seems so off to me.  Any advise on checking swing arm and/or frame alignment is greatly appreciated. 

Also pretty concerned that my chain, although still within spec, has same seized rollers.  Is there a trick for breaking them free?  I was just going to grind up an old set of small pliers into a shape specifically for rotating them while I hold the plate to break them free, is there an easier way?  Special tool someone already makes?

And now some pics, the Orange K0 at the bottom is just a random one I saw on the street in Chelsea.  It was nearly mint. 

[geoluv]

I forget what color it was exactly but i found its match.  Got everything wired up correctly.  Horn works.  Lights blink and beep (right side slower than the left).  High been works.  But low been doesn't seem to work.  When I flick on the lights the front two indicator lights turn on and the rear light turns on but nothing else.  The headlight doesn't turn on and neither do the rear two indicator lights (are the rear indicators supposed to turn on?).  When I turn high beam on it comes on correctly and the indicator light on the bars comes on correctly.  I have a fresh bulb I am testing with so I know it is not the bulb. 

[geoluv]

^ would the running light feature turn on the rear indicators too? 

the spare wire we could not identify earlier was red with brown stripe I'm pretty sure.  all three of those wires found their matches though, and there are no un-connected wires in the headlight at the moment. 

What 11.5" (290mm) shocks do you guys like?  The stock bouncers are 12.5".  I want to go down an inch, being as how I am "inseam challenged."  I've got my eyes on those Forzas on 4 into 1. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Forsa-Performance-Black-Chrome-Shorty-Shocks-Eye-to-Clevis-292mm-11-5-/172279330520?hash=item281ca5f6d8:g:BmoAAOSwLVZV34qW&vxp=mtr

4 into 1 and a few other eBay sellers have some no name shocks that seem equal in quality to the Forzas, just non-progressive and different color combos.  Also I like the Forzas because they have the spring guard and I will be riding with a rider sometimes.  There do not seem to be a lot of options in the "budget" category for rear shocks with a clevis end that are 11.5" long.  I weigh about 140lbs soaking wet though so I don't want my shocks to be too stiff, my back isn't what it use to be. 

Would these cheap Chinese air shocks from eBay work? 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280mm-Eye-to-Clevis-Pair-motorbike-Motorcycle-Air-Shock-Absorbers-Scooter-/252437319936?hash=item3ac66fd100:g:Z-MAAOSwjXRXbe3U&vxp=mtr

Eventually after I get the motor all tuned out and running tip top I will buy custom shocks but for now I just need something cheap that will lower me a tad.  I wish Drag Specialties made a shock with a clevis end, they make a perfect 11.5" shock but it's for Harley's. 

[Retro Rocket]

Forget the cheap shocks mate, spend a little more and get something that works... Ikon {Koni} or Hagons would be a good start, even second hand they are better than the 2 offerings you posted... I'm not much heavier than you {150} and love the Ikons , adjustable for rebound and damping and fully rebuildable....

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Forget the cheap shocks mate, spend a little more and get something that works... Ikon {Koni} or Hagons would be a good start, even second hand they are better than the 2 offerings you posted... I'm not much heavier than you {150} and love the Ikons , adjustable for rebound and damping and fully rebuildable....

+1

Cheap shocks = lousy ride

[540nova]

I have 11.5" shocks with a clevis end I'd sell. Brand new. PM me.


1974 CB450, 2006 CBR1000RR

[Tews19]

Cal is correct in regard to rear running lights. There is none on your 550 rear lighta

[geoluv]

I am about to go back out to work on the bike some more.  Im going to try to install the All Balls headset.  I discovered an oil leak I think so I need to track that down.  Going to properly check the alignment of the frame. Double check the measurements of the rear shocks.  Try very hard to get the c clip out of the master cylinder.  I really need to get the MC rebuilt badly since I learned 4 into 1 has GP levers for dirt cheap.  Is there a place to get just the rubber for the MC, and not that whole $30 kit from 4 into 1 that has all that stuff I don't need?  I need to adjust the clutch, too much slack in the cable, the barrel adjuster is dialed almost all the way out. How hard is the clutch suppose to feel on these things?  It feels pretty decent as it is but like I said I have to fiddle with it to get the slack out of the cable.  The alignment marks on the clutch actuator/engine case aren't really lined up but like I said the clutch feels ok so I don't know what is up with the cable tension or the marks.  I need to figure out why carb 4 leaks.  Wet sand inside of gas tank, there is a ton of rust in there and I feel like the visofilter isn't helping because I still find rust bits in the carbs.  I am going to try to check timing too.  I am going to try to clean some of the connections in the electrics tray too and get the right blinker blinking at the same rate as the left.  I am going to try to clean out the alternator too. 

Anything else I should do while I am out there?  I am going to try to lay out all my airbox parts and see whats missing.  I would just buy an entire complete airbox if I could find one. 

[geoluv]

^ Too late, already wet sanded the inside of the gas tank.  They way you do it is with equal parts play sand and distilled water inside the tank, duct tape the holes closed and shake the crap out of it for about 20 minutes.  My tank was very rusty so I did about 40 min.  It is a LOT of work.  It is a great upper body workout too, another reason I did it.  It is also very cheap; all you need is a gallon of distilled water and a small bag of hermit crab sand.  It is also the fastest way to de-rust a tank that I found, all other methods are passive and take a day or two.  The key is making absolutely sure you rinse out every last grain of sand, it takes almost as long as the shaking part, and then getting it perfectly dry so more rust doesn't form.  I do not know where my dad's charger is so I could no do electrolysis.

It got 95% of the rust out, not 100% but most.  I am going to get the rest with electrolysis some day before I seal it.  But for now it's a lot better than it was.  Between the wet sanding and the viso filters my carbs should stay clean now. 

I also checked alignment with string and jack stands, seemed pretty spot on to me.  I'm pretty sure the bike has never been layed down so it is straight enough I guess. 





My brother had the big boy welders on the back of his work rig today, but I'm not ready to chop the frame up yet.  You can't see it in the pic because I uploaded the medium quality pics instead of the large ones but there is a 4 point baby buck in the background. 

[geoluv]

A funny thing happened today to me also: I walk into my dads house in Hunterdon County NJ after driving 1.5 hours from Brooklyn.  He says "I saw a Honda twin for sale on River Rd on the PA side a little south from the Milford, NJ bridge."  He lives right next to the Delaware River.  I start my 550 first kick and ride down there, about a 5 minute ride.  I see it and slowly pull up to it, it's a cb175 in rough shape but the sign says it's got a clean PA title and all the parts.  All that bike would have needed was a new seat cover and a good scrub/lube and maybe a few rubber bits.  Sign said $600.  All that means nothing because as I stop I see two guys walk up to the bike, say a few words, then shake hands for a final sale price of $400.  I lost out big time.  5 minutes earlier and it would have been mine.  It was only a 175 so I didn't feel like trying to outbid the other guy.  If it was a 350 or 360 for the same price in the same condition I would have definitely tried to snake it from the other dude by bidding more, even after they shook (the deal ain't over until cash has been exchanged and the item is in the new owners hands).  It would have been a perfect city bike for me. 

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

You should spay the inside with WD40 or some other rust preventative or you will get additional flash rust quickly.

[geoluv]

^ I immediately filled it with gas to the top as soon as I got it bone dry.

[geoluv]

I got the MC apart.  Once I hammered down the piston a little I could get my c-clip pliers in there.  Yanked out half a  piston(?), sprayed in some PB blaster, then pushed everything out with a long allen wrench from the other end. 



Turns out my piston had snapped.  That may have been my doing from muscling it too much trying o yank it out.  Doesn't matter because the rebuild kit comes with everything. Got my rebuild kit on eBay, it was cheaper than 4 into 1, even with my super secret discount code.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/162148465095?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

And while I am at it here are some other cheap eBay parts I ordered:

I got these in grey/grey.  I think it will look nice and it's a rare color for this part.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/281971672344?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=580938217968&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I got these to put on the inner ends of the clip ons in case they only have one pinch bolt when they get here form China.  I don't like the idea of one Chinese bolt threaded into bargain basement Chinese aluminum so I am going to slide these MTB bicycle grip locks onto the ends so even if the clamp pinch bolt fails the bar won't slide out when I'm going 70mph on I78.  Plus I think it will look unique and cool.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/311665979761?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

also got some cheap black fork ears for the light and indicators.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291756485859?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321856360836?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[geoluv]

Airbox questions:

On second inspection my air cleaner housing appears to only be missing 4 pieces: the tool tray and screen, and the rubber gasket and "element" that go between those two metal pieces that sit in the box under the filter.  I have everything else, old crusty air filter, spring, boots and clamps with not one crack, and all the screws and nuts.

The tray was easy to find on eBay, but how do I replace the gasket and element?  Seems like something that is not 100% necessary, and could be made at home out of ordinary available items.  The pieces I am referring to are pieces 19 and 20 in the diagram of the 550F airbox below.  The K and F aircleaner setups are identical aside from the boots being longer on the F model to reach the shorter carbs, correct?  They also have that snorkel on the top instead of the tool tray (where did the tool kit go if your 550 didn't come with the tool tray?   



My next question is which drop-in air cleaner should I buy?  I see there is the Uni foam model which is what I'll probably buy as long as it doesn't require a rejet, or I can get NOS Honda but I don't like the idea of spending a lot for 40 year old paper filters that might be expired, do they expire?  The third option I think is this repop Emgo filter:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CB550F-75-77-OE-style-Air-Filter-17210-390-003-/152148716955?hash=item236cc52d9b:g:wjYAAOSwTZ1XnL9~&vxp=mtr

^That filter is listed as being compatible with F models but is it compatible with K models too?  I am not sure. 

[geoluv]

^ I did more research on those Emgo knock-offs.  4 into 1 lists it as a standard replacement for all the filters that came in both 550 models for all years so I just went ahead and bought it from that eBay link above (4into1 is sold out).   

I know people say you can find the stock NOS Honda filters for $25usd but the cheapest I could find them for was $55.  A little rich for my blood, I'm trying to build this bike as cheap as possible as a rat/brat build. 

[geoluv]

I rebuilt the master cylinder today and reattached all my front brake parts.  I was able to reassemble the MC with just a normal pair of snap ring pliers and a pair of needle nose and a very small flat head.  It was a huge PITA but I just want to let other people out there know it is possible, you don't have to buy the $25 purpose built MC snap ring pliers.  Honestly the hardest part of the whole thing was getting the tiny air hole on the MC body clear.  It is hard to find a piece of wire small enough to clear out the gunk.  After that I slapped everything together and realized my bars are about an inch and a half short, the end of my MC runs into the tachometer with my 27" wide Euro bars.  I really should have just gotten stock 400 bars.  I remove the tach, run the lines a way that I think doesn't kink them too much and doesn't offer any areas for an air bubble to form.  I throw some Valvoline dot 4 synthetic brake fluid in and start pumping with one finger on the grip so I don't make the piston go too far.  I push out all the old nasty crystalized brake fluid and eventually get nice, clean, air-free fluid.  I tighten everything up and it feels pretty solid.  Very tight and responsive.  Not bad for the first mass produced stock hydraulic front caliper!  I can't wait to install black GP levers.  Should I go free floating with the front caliper?   Super vent?   Maybe install a second disk for the needed stopping power in the city?

I also got the stock airbox on and it makes a world of difference.  The bike cruises so much more smoothly now.  I don't have to worry about blowing up my head from running lean.  But I don't think I can go through with taking the carbs out and putting them back in again with the stock airbox.  It was extremely difficult for me.  Is mashing down those precious fragile boots the only way to stuff it in there?  For how well the rest of the bike is designed it perplexes me that this is the only way to remove the carbs. 

I ordered a blanking plug for the tach but I am going to run dual mini gauges eventually.  If anyone knows of good mini speedometers with all four lights plus programable odometer let me know. 

[geoluv]

I checked timing today and it was way off, but then I also noticed it wasn't advancing?!?  I take off the points plate and notice the points cam is stuck all the way advanced.  The springs aren't pulling the two paws closed.  (I'm worried the springs lost some tension from being stuck open for who knows how long, now I need new ones, where do I get those little buggers?) So I close them manually with my hand and slap everything back together and set everything up all proper and fire up the bike again but when I'm checking timing it flips to full advance and sticks there when I rev it.   I pull everything apart and notice the points cam is really binding quite a bit on the advancer shaft.  I'm thinking gunky grease (or no grease) but then I go to yank it off the shaft and it is really stuck on there, it was very difficult to muscle it off.  I get it off but the grease is fine, so it's binding for a different reason.  I think maybe the cam got ovalized somehow, maybe the PO bent it trying to yank it off to grease it, maybe it got stepped on in a work space.  But then I notice something; both the two prongs coming off the advancer shaft have very faint cracks starting at the prong edge and going down the shaft a millimeter or two.  I think someone at some point tried to turn the crankshaft with a wrench (instead of the kickstarter) but forgot it was in gear and it cracked the shaft every so slightly and flared the end.  I'm 99% sure this is what is causing the binding because at the moment I am very carefully and evenly sanding down the end of the shaft with fine sandpaper to sand down the "flair" and I checked a few times and I am pretty sure it started turning easier. 

I am going to post pictures of the shaft damage a little later.  I know getting these bikes timed correctly can be difficult for a number of reasons usually surrounding the advancer shaft and cam or the springs.  Just wanted to add one more possible reason to the list. 

[geoluv]

I got everything back together.  I noticed that even though my shaft and the cam were turning silky smooth after I honed and polished them the springs didn't have enough tension to pull the weights all the way in.  Worn springs.  I might do the spring hack but first I want to try to find new replacements.  I can get used spark advancer assemblies cheap on eBay but Im worried they all have worn springs like mine. 

I checked timing and everything is all good aside from it not going all the way back down to the F mark when I idle.  Thats because the weights aren't closing because of the worn springs, but it is a lot better.   At least now my advancer weights are moving and not stuck at full advance. 

[geoluv]

After getting acquainted to the wiring of the bike hands on and staring at the wiring diagram for a few weeks I think I have a pretty good grasp of how current flows through my bike so I figured from what my bike is doing that the switch for the headlight must be broken and need a rebuild because the high beam comes on but not low beam.  I used a continuity tester and found power is actually going to the headlight, the headlight's low beam is just burnt out.  I am going to convert all the lights in the bike to LED because I am going to be doing mostly city riding.