Author Topic: 1975 cb550 Project SENCHA - bike has found new home (Read 80646 times)

goldarrow · « **on:** May 07, 2012, 09:49:39 AM »

i have decided to give her a name Sencha, and you guys may wonder where/how that name came about. well, first off i wanted to use the word 'sancha' as her name. sancha in spanish means your significant other, other than your wife. i felt and still feel like i have devoted too much time on her when i should balance my time better between family, work, and hobby. but anyways, sancha sounds too mean to my family so i looked up a word in japanese that is closest to sancha and i found 'sencha' which is type of green tea. and my bike is green, so i'm going to use it.

Sencha before surgery 4/12/2012

long story short, here's how Sencha looks at the moment after about a month i brought her home. here's the link for the month time frame where her holes are stuck (i probably used the wrong word here, suggestions?). http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=105085.0

what do you guys think about this one? cylinder #3. vertical scraped lines, i could feel it when i put my finger over it. the line is about 3/4 down from the top of the cylinder. also rust scars, i don't think it looks that bad, but my theory is that one scrape line caused by PO (that's why engine stuck) then the bike sat until rusted. then i freed it, and ring moved slightly and scraped a new line that also took out the rust.

so, where will Sencha take me?
you guys will probably say to hone or bore the cylinders.
- is stock cylinders still an option?
- bore with whatever size over? with also better performance and horse power?
since i'm already going to spend money on the cylinder, which is a better road or path for Sencha to take?

thanks

rickmoore24 · « **Reply #1 on:** May 07, 2012, 10:12:27 AM »

Hello goldarrow! I like the name of your project, very cool. Well, since you've got a nice looking scar in the cylinder you may need to bore over. You can try to hone it first but depending on the depth of the gouge it may not smooth out. Since you're wanting a little performace boost as well, you should look into an 836cc kit as an over bore is likely your next step if the hone doesn't work.

Good luck!! Rick.

Mcwilliams570 · « **Reply #2 on:** May 07, 2012, 10:35:46 AM »

Glad you finally got it unstuck

That looks like a deep scratch to me I dont think honing will take care of it. I honed mine when I rebuilt it seems like honing is good for getting the cross hatching on the walls not so much for removing deep scratches. Goodluck with your project.

Matt

goldarrow · « **Reply #3 on:** May 07, 2012, 02:55:49 PM »

Quote from: rickmoore24 on May 07, 2012, 10:12:27 AM

Hello goldarrow! I like the name of your project, very cool. Well, since you've got a nice looking scar in the cylinder you may need to bore over. You can try to hone it first but depending on the depth of the gouge it may not smooth out. Since you're wanting a little performace boost as well, you should look into an 836cc kit as an over bore is likely your next step if the hone doesn't work. Good luck!! Rick.

Well, when i first got the bike, I was only thinking about bone stock and boring and performance wasn't even in the equation. But now, the cylinders need to be bored and boring means x sizes larger, and better performance. Or try to find a good replacement cylinder and stay stock. but not sure what bore/pistons sizes are known, good, and available for 550 motor.

goldarrow · « **Reply #4 on:** May 07, 2012, 02:59:01 PM »

Quote from: Mcwilliams570 on May 07, 2012, 10:35:46 AM

Glad you finally got it unstuck That looks like a deep scratch to me I dont think honing will take care of it. I honed mine when I rebuilt it seems like honing is good for getting the cross hatching on the walls not so much for removing deep scratches. Goodluck with your project.

Matt

Thanks Matt, should I even bother try to hone with HF honing kit?

LesterPiglet · « **Reply #5 on:** May 07, 2012, 02:59:39 PM »

I don't think he'll get 836cc from a 550.

Mcwilliams570 · « **Reply #6 on:** May 07, 2012, 03:07:54 PM »

Yeah I saw that too Lester..

I used a 2 3/8 flexhone 320 grit that I got off ebay was like 25$. It is hard without actually feeling the scratch it looks deep to me. The hones are usually in and out for a few seconds if it is a really deep scratch I dont think it will make it smooth. Maybe someone with more experience can chime in. You could buy a used replacement cylinder and go that route hone, new rings and should be good or the boring out will work too but probally a bit more money involved.

Matt

rickmoore24 · « **Reply #7 on:** May 08, 2012, 11:00:38 AM »

Sorry guys, I've got CB750's on the brain and failed to notice your project is in fact a 550. My mistake. Anyhow, I'd try the hone first and if you want to stay stocker, replace the cylinder(s). You'll be spending a little money either way.

rb550four · « **Reply #8 on:** May 08, 2012, 05:38:33 PM »

836cc available for a 550? I was getting all excited! Oh well.
You could try and hone it first, probably have a rust ring in the cylinder anyways,can't hurt to try it, the worse that could happen is that you can't smooth it out and go with a bore or as you said a different set of cylinders.

goldarrow · « **Reply #9 on:** May 08, 2012, 05:53:04 PM »

the whole idea of taking the engine apart is that NOT to drop any little pieces of anything down the engine bottom. and it's probably has been said thousands of times since the beginning of time. well, i made sure of that and i'm not worry about it at all. BUT in the process of taking the pistons off for cleaning, i managed to lost a piston pin clip. it didn't drop in the engine, but it FLEW away! and i was pretty much laughed, mad, and sad at myself as i saw this was coming but let it happened anyways.

here's what i used to get it off

piston #3 is off, being the worst of the 4. will probably soak them in soapy dish soap water, compress air dry, may be sand blast also and wd40 afterward

one of the pin clips flew away, long lost.

rb550four · « **Reply #10 on:** May 08, 2012, 06:51:57 PM »

Don't worry about them, you're not supposed to reuse them anyways. If you do and they are just a little bent they may not seat properly, slip out of the grove and have catastrophic results. I get them in 10 packs Honda # 94601 15000.

Mcwilliams570 · « **Reply #11 on:** May 08, 2012, 07:15:38 PM »

Is that the fork that was in the Matrix wait nevermind it was a spoon

rb550four · « **Reply #12 on:** May 10, 2012, 06:51:05 PM »

Either way he still only has a service for 7 now.
NAPA has a tool for this , it's main purpose is to pull seals out. Has a hook on one end and a twisted sharp end on the other side, comes in handy all around.

rb550four · « **Reply #13 on:** May 13, 2012, 04:45:46 PM »

Gold arrow, I was at a festival today, saw this and thought of you. Maybe something you can do with that place setting for 7 ?

Won't your wife be surprised?

goldarrow · « **Reply #14 on:** May 14, 2012, 09:30:46 AM »

Quote from: rb550four on May 13, 2012, 04:45:46 PM

Gold arrow, I was at a festival today, saw this and thought of you. Maybe something you can do with that place setting for 7 ?

Won't your wife be surprised?

RB, that is awesome, and freaky looking at the same time if you ask me. now just need to fill up the table with food.

goldarrow · « **Reply #15 on:** May 14, 2012, 09:33:41 AM »

Quote from: rb550four on May 08, 2012, 06:51:57 PM

Don't worry about them, you're not supposed to reuse them anyways. If you do and they are just a little bent they may not seat properly, slip out of the grove and have catastrophic results. I get them in 10 packs Honda # 94601 15000.

i found the clip a week later, stuck on my 2x4 wooden block that i use as part of my bike's tool. and no, not planning on re using it.

goldarrow · « **Reply #16 on:** May 14, 2012, 10:02:37 AM »

haven't really been updating my thread for the last week. so here goes.

stripped Sencha down naked almost all the way.
-only few things are still on: triple tree, kick stand, center stand, motor bottom end. everything else is off.

taking top steering nut off was easy. taking the lock nut was easier! didn't even have to use the hook spanner tool, all by hand!

i think i lost one of my balls! 35 shown in pic, found 1 on the floor, missing a ball! i think there should be set of 18 and 19, total of 37....off top of my head from the reading from other thread

-broke couple of bolts in between the process:
tach mounting screw at the wheel, i was so in to taking things apart and forgot to take pictures of the whole process! you see how much fun that is?

front brake caliper adjustment bolt broke off

rear brake arm bolt broke off

quite a few of these broke off

take apart everything else was pretty much straight forward. no manual needed.

front forks are rusty, may just need clean up and rebuild

now she's naked, ready to take be cleansed and bathe

now that most everything is apart, Sencha started to have an idea where she will take me. i'm sure you guys will love to see her path also. so stay tuned.

goldarrow · « **Reply #17 on:** May 15, 2012, 06:50:07 PM »

got a little time to take the engine off the frame, of course it won't come off that easy. 2 bolts won't come off.

-1st bolt is upper rear hanger bolt. got the nut removed, but the other end just keep spinning, try tapping but just won't come off. i've read somewhere on here it is due to the weight of the engine holding on to the bolt, and to put 2x4 scrap wood block under the engine pan and the bolt should slide off, so will give that a try tomorrow

-2nd bolt is the lower front left by the kick stand, that won't budge at all period. anyone has any idea before i whack the life out of it with hammer and break things?

rb550four · « **Reply #18 on:** May 16, 2012, 06:07:06 PM »

There are a couple of things to do . Pb blaster the threaded end. Do you have an impact driver ? In your socket size (3/8, 1/2") and an impact socket?
You could use a socket on a ratchet put a box end wrench on the end of the ratchet handle instead of a pipe so you don't go overboard, snapping tools and knuckles.
Air or electric impact gun.
If you get desperate you could heat up the bolt then a wrench of some sort....not the box end 14, a socket.

Pb the spacer on chain side of the top rear mount put the nut on the bolt till almost flush and tap it squarely with a hammer to break it loose.

goldarrow · « **Reply #19 on:** May 16, 2012, 10:15:28 PM »

thanks RB. i ended up using impact socket with rachet and step on the rachet with my body weight. engine is finally off the bike! time for clean up, prep, polish paint, etc. the process may not be exciting anymore and may be tedius, but i'll update the process regulary for documentation purpose. i think this may be why i don't get that much traffic on my thread like others.

but it only takes one reader and to keep me motivated.

oh, also found my ball that i lost the other day. using pick up magnet and scour the area and there it was, on the magnet. saves me $50 upgrading to ALLBALLS

my 4 yr old inside the house, looking out the window and took picture of half of me with naked Sencha

CafeDawg · « **Reply #20 on:** May 16, 2012, 10:48:48 PM »

ga, lookin good!!! You're making some real progress. One suggestion, go with tapered steering bearings, either All Balls or another brand they made a noticeable difference on my 750. Since you've got it apart might as well go the extra mile. I found them on eBay for 38 bucks shipped for the 550, OEM's will prob run you half that anyway. Your forks look better than mine and I just plan a clean up on the outside but fresh seals, fork oil and maybe springs for the insides. Rusted bolts and cotter pins are easily replaceable. Also when your looking for replacement hardware at online parts suppliers look at the parts fiches, very detailed schematics, they can help you put things back together. Keep at it.

Respect
CD

goldarrow · « **Reply #21 on:** May 21, 2012, 06:46:02 PM »

a bit of progress over the last few days. the lower triple race ring and seal were all butchered up to be reuse, so the tapered ball bearing will need to be ordered. had a tough time fighting with the lower race, though. many old thread suggested using angle grinder and cut off the race, but i don't own a grinder and can't afford one. so, browsing the HF website and found this thing called Bearing Seperating Tool, so off i went and came home with the tool in hand, and more fighting with the race. still no go because the tool can't get enough space to hold on to for pulling up. so, more hammering time with screw driver. hit by hit and rubber seal started to come off, i figured just pull that off out of the way, and there is the pace, plenty for the bearing separting too to grab on to. put it in, and easy as 1, 2, 3! and the lower race came off.

notice that i had to use hard object (i used wrench) at the top of the steering stem because the tool wanted to dive down the tube stem.

close up of the tool in place ready to pull

rubber seal is pulled off and butchered up ring

the tool is all in position to pull, count 1, 2, 3 as you pull or twist the top with socket

and there it is the race!

love Harbor Freight 100% easy return policy! - the $40 tool went back to the store. thanks HF for letting me borrow!

goldarrow · « **Reply #22 on:** May 22, 2012, 07:23:51 PM »

pics of exhaust colars/flanges or whatever is called...when tear down the bike

exhaust colars/flanges after a week of pickled in cooking vinegar and hours of toothbrushing them - some of the rust came off

exhaust colars/flanges after over night of Evaporust - yes, expensive stuff, rest of the rust are gone with effortless toothbrushing. washed with dish soap and sprayed with wd-40. i probably didn't spray enough, so bit of rust came back but no problem at all now as i realized that they gonna get wire wheel and rattle can paint black.

goldarrow · « **Reply #23 on:** May 22, 2012, 08:17:53 PM »

front brake master cylinder upon disembling from the bike, it was stuck with with hole bunch of !@#$ in the cylinder

removed the rubber clip and rubber seal - easy as pie

work my way getting the cylinder to move. it sat in soapy water for couple of days, no movement, but some gunk came out the two holes in the resevior. push the other end with small allen wrench and the spring inside was free, so i was thinkink that the cylinder some way, some how has got to move. after so much fighting with it, i ran out of patience, took it to local motocycle shop near by work place, may be a wasted trip. the guy just said to get a used one off ebay!

i think that's how most mechanics minds set. and oh, the circlip ring! what a PITA just like everybody said on forums. after i lost my patience, decided to whack the cylinder with my $6 orange dead blow hammer i got from HF, best $6 ever spent on the bike yet. it took quite some whacking time and muscle. but it pushed in! so back and forth with the allen wrench on one end, and a socket that fits just enough in the cylinder end, keep whacking it. soak it in soapy water again, i started to regain my patience as now i could push the cylinder with my thumb! while soaking in soapy water, pushing the cylinder with my thumb, a lot of the !@#$! started to come out through the one of the holes in the resevoir. i was like NICE! thinking that i'm somewhat better than the mechanic at the shop! sorry i couldn't take any pics or vids during the process as i was busy with both hands and was so involved. after getting the cylinder free, next challenge was getting the circlip. it was rusted bad. and yes you're fighting with rust trying to get it out. started off with two eyes on the circlip, using the smallest screw driver i could find, then lost one eye.

i decided to invest my money for picker tool found at home depot for $4 Huskey 4 piece set. a bit of fighting still with that one eye, but the circlip finally gave! the cylinder came out with not much !#$@ but some on it, as most of it came out during the soapy bath pumping earlier.

the whole thing finally came apart

i hope someone will learn something from here, as too much man hours put into this lol

mono · « **Reply #24 on:** May 23, 2012, 11:29:17 AM »

thanks for sharing - i needed a lesson on brake masters - mine moves, but i noticed a little black *&%* coming out of the holes in the reservoir and i get no brake pressure. looks like i'll have to take it apart after all !

News:

Author Topic: 1975 cb550 Project SENCHA - bike has found new home (Read 80646 times)